No power

I bought this 360 modena 3 pedal as a project to get running again. It missed, had no power, especially at high RPM. Now it is smooth at idle, but just has no power. the temp at the ex manifold outlets are the same. I used to dyno cars and ones with a plugged muffler made a lot of noise in the intake under load. Unfortunately I have nothing to compare to!! If anyone is near Sac and wants to come up for a drive to Georgetown and we can compare sounds, that would be great!!
What I have done--
replaced all of the coil on plugs and spark plugs
replaced the cam variators as they were never replaced under warranty. Degreed the cams and they all line up with the original marks. Replaced timing belts and pulleys.
I have disconnected the battery and let it idle for 10 minutes. By the way, before I did anything ONE time and after I reset the ecms, it ran perfect, only one time!!
I unplugged the muffler actuator. the drivers side was making a tinny noise, now it does not.
If I still had my chassis dyno I could test the cats, but like I said it ran perfect ONE time

 

Other things I thought about--
O2 sensor readings nearly the same on both banks
checked all fuses behind drivers seat
On first start up it does not run well. shut the engine off and start again, runs perfect. After that it starts and idles perfect everytime--

I have run out of possibilities!!!

 

I had it done 6 months ago when I bought it and they were all even. It idles real smooth, just has no power--I am just hoping that someone can chime in and say, I had the same problem and this is what it was!!! I am thinking more now in the exhaust system. has anyone had any luck testing the pressure before and after the cats? Ferrari has made some nice test port to do this.

 

It never had good power except one time. I am going to take apart and clean every connector that I can find from the ECM's back then start checking ex pressure. Never disconnected any electrical connectors except the cam sensors and they are in position. It is doing the same thing that it did in the beginning, just low power, my toyota van is pepier!! It is a SMOOTH low power, no jerking or missing---

 

In addition to the check connections, exhaust, I am going to check fuel pressure. I did not because both ex manifolds have the same temps. I am trying to be logical, no fire, no heat. I am also fighting Jacks Law. It is not the first time---- like the reversed cam cam that people say "that never happens" I am used to it!!!!!!

 

the maf's read the same 2-3. Fuel pressure on both 50LBS. 1-2 lbs pressure on both exhaust pipes. I think I found the problem. Timing is a 4-5 deg at idle and the most I can get is 30deg. Anyone know what sensors make changes the timing? THEY BOTH READ THE SAME.

 

I have an invitation to get it on a SD3, but the mechanic is having me try some things first. I will have to trailer it to him. I have a scanner that will tell me timing and MAF readings. NO CODES EVER SET the main thing that the scanner will do is tell me that BOTH sides are equal. The problem is that I do not know what the numbers need to be and no doubt it is different than the SD3. I have to find out what sensors talk to the ECM to change the timing. It is all electronic. Monday I will talk to the guy in town and see what he has to say. I think there are a lot of things that could cause this problem. a shorted knock sensor? something like this---I am going to try this ECM reset, a little different than the way I have done it--
The most comprehensive reset will occur when the engine is stone cold – I leave the battery disconnected overnight.
Once power has been restored to the car then turn the key in the ignition to position II and wait for the “Check OK” message to be displayed. Wait for at least a further 10 seconds before starting the engine. This is to allow the fly by wire throttle system to go through a self learning procedure and ensure that the components are synchronized correctly.

Next, start the engine and let it idle for at least 5 mins (Ferrari recommend 4 mins, I prefer to let it idle for about 10). To begin with the engine will sound terrible, as if it’s misfiring. This is because all the trim values have been erased from the ECUs. By allowing the engine to idle the ECU can re-learn the correct trim to be applying to the parameters. The engine note will improve quickly.
Idle for at least 5 mins from cold. As well as re-learning the adaptive parameters, the ECU also checks that the lambda sensor heater elements are working correctly and tests that the purge valves on theFuel Vapour Emission Control System (aka EVAP) are operating properly.
Drive the car in 3rd or 4th gear with an engine speed of between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for 3 1/2 miles (no hard accelerating or erratic shifting). The ECU checks ignition, fuel trim, cat efficiency, lambda sensors, PCV valve operation and EVAP purges.
Shift to 4th gear and increase engine speed to 4,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds. This ensure the engine is operating in a steady state.
Decrease engine speed to 2,000 rpm without changing gear or braking. ECU checks PCV valve operation and EVAP purges.
Gently stop the car without changing gear, shifting into neutral when required. Let the engine idle for 5 minutes without touching the throttle or changing the engine load (for example by turning on/off any electrical equipment or air conditioning). This allows the ECU to learn the engine idle control properly.
Switch the engine off and remove the key. Keep the engine off for at least 30 seconds.
Restart the engine and drive the car normally for 10 minutes (no hard accelerating or erratic shifting). The ECU re-checks ignition, fuel trim, cat efficiency, lambda sensors, PCV valve operation and EVAP purges.

 

OK tried the overnight power off and it has 5 times more power. Finally left some codes. 1241 and 1449 on only one bank. Will check what they are when I get a chance--

 

1241 #5 inj open circuit open. I took all of the injectors out and had them cleaned. I guess I need to open and clean the connections next. that is one thing I was told to do with ALL of the connectors. will do that now---

1449 unscrew drivers side thermal couple and put it back in? anyone know the voltage specs?

 

Any idea where the ecm's are?