Coolant header tank removal questions

You defiantly want to bleed the system once you have replaced the tank and this is very easy to do:

NOTE: Make sure your heater is set to FULL HOT so that you are sure to be bleeding the whole system. If not you can get a big air pocket in the system (ask me how I know)

1 Park the car on a slightly uphill rise and loosen the bleed screw that is on the top of the radiator (passenger side).

2. Start filling the coolant bottle until it reaches the correct level and leave the rad cap off.

3. Start the engine and monitor the level of the bottle as well as the coolant bleed screw.

4. As the coolant circulates the level of the bottle will likely drop a little and eventually coolant will dribble out of the bleed screw. At this stage close the bleed screw and re-fill the bottle to the correct level.

5. Let the engine continue to run with the rad cap removed and as it builds temperature the level of the coolant bottle will start to rise. At this stage make the coolant bottle has not dropped in level (top up if so) and then re-install the rad cap.

6. Last step is to return to the front bleed screw on the rad and open it again with the engine running. Be sure to protect your hands as the coolant will be hot but what you are after is a steady flow of coolant without air hissing out. Once you achieve this tighten the bleeder and you are done.

The whole procedure should take about 5 minutes. Good luck

 

If you have to resort to cutting one or all of the hoses to remove them, who has the proper braided hoses for replacement?

Thanks,


Ken

 

Do try and bleed the system even if the car is not overheating. All you need to do is park it uphill, and open the rad bleed screw while the engine is running. Let some coolant dribble out and you are done. An air lock can cause a sudden heating spike without warning so an occasional bleed is a good idea.