droplink bushing removal/installation | FerrariChat
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droplink bushing removal/installation

Discussion in '308/328' started by airdelroy, Sep 27, 2015.

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  1. airdelroy

    airdelroy Formula Junior

    May 10, 2007
    420
    Austin, TX
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    Aaron Richardson
    #1 airdelroy, Sep 27, 2015
    I am trying to replace the metal encased rubber bushing that is inserted into the front droplink. I am having trouble getting the bushing out of the droplink. I have tried pressing it out on my vise with a couple of sockets, but it is requiring a bit more force than I am currently willing to try. Are these really pressed in there that tightly? Should I just try a bit more force? Or perhaps is there another method that works better?

    thanks,
    Aaron
     
  2. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie

    Jan 22, 2003
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    Martin N.
    #2 Martin308GTB, Sep 27, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Shouldn't be too hard to get them out. Are you sure you have the correct socket sizes?
    You also might warm the droplink a bit. The alloy expands significantly more than the steel.
    Be careful; I'm not quite sure about the front ones, but the rear ones are made of magnesium alloy and are crazy $$$$$, if you need a new one.
    I once broke one driving through a deep pothole.

    Best Regards from Germany
    Martin
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  3. airdelroy

    airdelroy Formula Junior

    May 10, 2007
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    Aaron Richardson
    #3 airdelroy, Sep 27, 2015
    Im pretty sure the socket would fit inside the hole. It seems a bit smaller than the OD of the larger metal spacer. I would imagine these are also of magnesium as they are quite light weight.

    Ill give the heat a try and see if they loosen up a bit.

    thanks,
    Aaron
     
  4. absostone

    absostone F1 World Champ
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    #4 absostone, Sep 27, 2015
    I just did my entire rear susp on my gt4. I couldn't get the drop link bushings out no matter what I tried. Went to a local shop and he pressed them out with a press and sandblasted them and installed the new ones for 40 bux. sweet
     
  5. absostone

    absostone F1 World Champ
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    #5 absostone, Sep 27, 2015
    Btw after they were sandblasted I shined them up a little with a brownish red scotchbrite and sprayed a few coats of matt finish wheel clear to protect. Looks awesome. I can't upload photos for some reason
     
  6. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    Mark W.R.
    #6 mwr4440, Sep 27, 2015
    Had Zero issues with my rears, old out or new in.

    Used a socket and vice.
     
  7. airdelroy

    airdelroy Formula Junior

    May 10, 2007
    420
    Austin, TX
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    Aaron Richardson
    #7 airdelroy, Sep 27, 2015
    A little bit of heat did the trick. Once the bushing started moving it became much easier to get it the rest of the way out.

    Now I just have to wait for my sockets to cool to put the new ones in. :D

    thanks!
    Aaron
     
  8. airdelroy

    airdelroy Formula Junior

    May 10, 2007
    420
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    Aaron Richardson
    #8 airdelroy, Sep 27, 2015
    Im not sure what the torque specs for the nuts holding the drop link in place.

    I think I read that the lower nut is set to 7kgm. The workshop manual reads "sock absorber to lower lever". However, this seems a bit high and might crush the inner metal insert of the bushing?

    Im not sure what the upper nut is in the WSM. Perhaps the "securing front link and shock absorber support"? That torque is 6kgm.

    Anyone know?

    thanks,
    Aaron
     
  9. airdelroy

    airdelroy Formula Junior

    May 10, 2007
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    Aaron Richardson
    #9 airdelroy, Sep 28, 2015
    Along with the torque spec, Im not sure which way to put the bolt in that goes through the lower portion of the drop link. From the TAV it looks like the bolt is inserted from the other side of the shock. However, I have seen in many suspension rebuild threads that the original direction was opposite this (including my car). Most put it back on though like the TAV indicates. Does this matter?

    There is a small shoulder on the bolt near the head. Im not sure the reason for this and so I suspect it may need to be placed on the drop link side like I took it off.

    Anyone know for sure?

    thanks,
    Aaron
     
  10. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    #10 Jdubbya, Sep 28, 2015
    I would think the shoulder on the bolt is just a matter of the length. Typical manufacturing only threads so far up longer bolts. Generally anything over about 1-1/4" starts getting a shoulder with no threads unless it's specified to thread further up.

    As for torque specs in the GT4 WSM it shows 7kgm for both ends of the sway bar. That shouldn't be enough to do any damage. That's about 50 ft/lbs so not excessive.
     
  11. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie

    Jan 22, 2003
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    Martin N.
    #11 Martin308GTB, Sep 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    John,

    I think, the shoulder, Aaron is talking about has nothing to do with the length and the threaded portion. I think, the shoulder is this, what I show on my attached picture. ( sorry for poor pic. WTF does an Ipad lack a flashlight, while Iphones have one?)

    I agree with John regarding the torque. And on my car the bolt head is on the drop link side. I just reassembled it like it was before and would state, that it simply doesn't matter. Except, that you wouldn't have to pull the bolt, when installing or removing the droplink, if the bolt head would be on the opposite side.

    Best Regards from Germany
    Martin
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  12. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    #12 Jdubbya, Sep 28, 2015
    Ah, didn't notice that one. Been awhile since I've been under there. :)
     
  13. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    #13 miketuason, Sep 28, 2015
    Heim joint will work too if you don't care about originality.
     

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