Motor Oil

Most popular topic on Fchat. Puts timing belts to shame.

Do a search and there will be enough there you'll never stop reading.

 

I use Motul synthetic in my F cars

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motul_(company)


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Put Motul in mi last oil change and it foamed . That Never happened with Redline or Mobil

 

Redline all the way for engine (5W40) and transmission (75W90 NS)

 

+1

 

Anyone use Amsoil?

 

My indie recommends Mobil 1 15w50 :shrug:

 

It is not a matter of need. Friction modifiers benefit the positraction differential only, they actually inhibit the function of the synchronizers. It becomes a balance of the needs of both so Redline offers us a choice. If you start with NS and add only just enough friction modifier to keep the posi clutches quiet it will generally result in a better shifting transmission. Many cars we service need no friction modifier. Our own TR and 328 have no friction modifier in them. The 328 posi makes no noise and the TR makes very little and is intermittent even then.

 

Red Line 5W40....I agree the Shell oil foams really bad...it was a pain to measure the oil...day and night...

 

I used the shell 5w-40 for the pat two years and I'm going back to redline. I think she likes it better.

for transmission oil I use valvoline. the redline NS gave me chatter I tight turns...

 

Mobil 1 0-40 for 3-years now.

 

I use the recommended by Ferrari, Pennzoil PLatinum Euro 5w-40 (the replacement of the old Shell Helix Ultra) I am sure there are "interests"for Ferrari to recommend Pennzoil over other brands, but I will replace it every year and I live in Southern California so I am pretty sure it will do the job, and also it is preety cheap around 10 dollars per quarter.
For transmission I use Redline 75w-90NS

 

can't help you with growing a pair.......................

but

can help you with more oil info than you ever wanted to see.

Frequently Asked Questions about Motor Oils / LN Engineering - Knowledge Base LN Engineering

 

+1

 

OK now that is an interesting oil to talk about.

..."Pennzoil Platinum Euro SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic with PurePlus Technology is when you combine PurePlus synthetic base oils with our high performance additives. PurePlus Technology is a patented, revolutionary process that converts pure natural gas into the first-of-its-kind, high quality, full synthetic base oil used in the Pennzoil Platinum line of motor oils. It produces a crystal clear base oil that is 99.5 percent pure with fewer impurities than base oils made from crude oil, the start to many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. PurePlus base oils enable very low volatility formulations with NOACK volatilities of 10 percent and lower - results typical API Group II and III (synthetic) base stocks cannot achieve. This means less oils lost by evaporating off hot engine surfaces such as piston rings. Platinum European SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil meets the needs of European and performance automobiles. It has superior Active Cleansing Agents continuously attacks potential and stubborn deposits to help keep the engine clean. A low volatility oil that provides excellent high-temperature protection and low-temperature protection. It resists high temperature oxidation better than conventional oils. "...
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Is it clear?

 

Really clear, former owner used the same one for one year and about 10k miles and when I replaced it it was still clear, only problem it tends to produce bubbles (foam) so checking the level is tricky (you have to turn off the engine when it is warm and restart it and check the level in that moment)



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99% of the time, in my opinion, it's best to just stick with what the manufacturer recommends when it comes to higher end Italian and German autos.

That being said, if you decide to branch out and find a "better" solution, the first step is to familiarize yourself with the various Groups of oil.

Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups

^In reviewing this, you'll learn that some "synthetic" oils are actually petroleum based.

Many of the synthetic oils here in the US are Group III. Not true synthetic.

It's only when you start getting into the Group IV and V that you find true synthetic oil. For the most part, these will be the AMSoil, Redline, etc. Some of the Castrol oils will be Group IV or higher. The "German Castrol" for example. Their 0w30 that is now labeled under the Edge lineup is a true synthetic.

And if you ever want to know way more about oil than is necessary, jump on over to BITOG (Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy) and read to your heart's content.

If you're concerned the current oil you are using isn't getting the job done, it's good to send in samples for review as well via Blackstone or similar.

-James

 

Interesting and combining both your websites I was able to find this information about the Pennzoil recommended by Ferrari (which I use by the way)

"3. How is PurePlus™ Technology classified? Is PurePlus base oil considered to be Group III+, or Group IV, or some other group altogether?
PurePlus™ base oil is classified as an API Group III product. It is important to note there is no such category as an API Group III+ base oil, interested readers can download and check out a copy of API 1509 for the current official base oil definitions. PurePlus™ base oil is classified as API Group III base oil based on its molecular structure, but it exceeds the minimum requirements for API Group III base oil."
Pennzoil Q & A - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy

 

I believe Shell owns both Pennzoil and Quaker State ... so right there you have major brands of oil made by the same parent company and probably the same stuff, just a different container. I believe Ferrari is currently promoting Shell Helix Ultra.

Mobil has been promoting Mobil 1 since Shep was pup. Currently large decals on NASCAR, Le Mans and many other racing venues.

Valvoline has been marketing their oils touting that they invented the stuff 140 years ago.

For a while Castrol was the "only" oil a true BMW owner would use. I think BMW evens rebrands a Castrol product.

Lots of F-chatters say that Redline is way to go.

The manufacture tells us to use a full synthetic oil. My owner's manual specifically states to use Shell Helix Ultra SAE 5W-40 or SAE 0W-40. Now this is the same stuff as Pennzoil Ultra Euro (I believe).

If I am not mistaken, a car company cannot "void" a new car warranty if an owner does not use fluids "recommended" by the manufacturer as long as the fluid meets SAE and other governing agency specifications. In other words, you can use Mobil 1 in your car because it meets same specs as Shell Ultra Helix.

So my question ... how does anyone who does not have a full chemical lab, the ability to compare used oil through a thorough analysis of used engine oil, multiple engines / cars to make a valid comparison even begin to make an educated conclusion of which engine oil to use? How do you guys make a statement that brand ABC is better brand XYZ when the oil your talking about is the same spec?

I am going out a limb here ... but I doubt anyone can cite an instance where using say Quaker State Ultimate Synthetic resulted in an engine failure or degradation that using Shell Helix would have prevented.

Bottom line ... use a full synthetic motor oil of 5W - 40 weight. Pick any of the brands. they all have top line brands and if I read the spec sheets they are pretty much equal.

Steve

 

Steve- Affirmative, Shell owns both Pennzoil and Quaker State. Before the current recommended Pennzoil, Ferrari recommended Quaker State Q, which was Shell Ultra Helix renamed because Shell oil in the US is the bottom feeder in their product list and Pennzoil and Quaker State are the top feeders.

I use Valvoline 5W-40 full synthetic because the Shell Ultra Helix foamed too much. Any of the premium synthetic oils in 0W-40 or 5W-40 will work fine as long as you do not mix with a different brand of oil whose modifiers and additives might not be compatible.

 

Hey Taz, long time no hear from you. I was getting concerned you might have fallen into pit somewhere. Was going to send the search and rescue team out to look for you.

Now, your answer is really a good one. Some oils may foam more than others. My tech guys buy Shell Ultra Helix by the 55 gal drum. Where they get it, I know not. They also get the Shell Glycoshell coolant and Shell Donax TA. Again, both by the drum full.

I recently had them do my fluid changes as part of annual and they used the Shell oil. I just checked the level yesterday and it is not foaming ... and that was after about 45 minutes of driving and engine was up to full operating temp. But, I like what you saying about not mixing brands. That makes sense.

Best regards,

Steve

 

I don't understand why we like to complicate things. Just go with what the manufacturer uses and recommends and you will be fine. If that oil for some reason it doesn't exist and impossible to find and buy then break your head to research the substitute. Because that's not our case here, I leave it alone and I don't experiment.
Btw. If you car is still under warranty and something happens to your engine, Ferrari might refuse the free repair if they test and find out the you are using different oil.