Brian, I really respect your opinion as one of the very few pros on this site and I am interested in what you suggest for replacement headers?
If it turns out the flanges are distorted then there's not really a repair for them that offers a reliable long term solution. Instead of wasting time and money trying to repair the existing flanges, simply remove them from the headers and have them duplicated out of thicker material. Those can be laser or (better yet) water jet cut really easily-- the only trick is digitizing the pattern. But it's hands down the best way to go if the manufacturer doesn't offer some sort of recourse. Replace the flanges with proper ones, use the factory gaskets/torque specs, and they should seal as well as the originals but without the cracking problems.
I have spoken to Nouvalari, and they said they have not known this to be an issue with any of their headers before, but suggested doing as stated in this thread and have them re-ground flat. Also big shout out to mechanic extrordinaire Wade Williams at Ferrari of Atlanta, who is going to do the grinding work for me. As stated, I'm just swapping my factory headers back on in the meantime while I wait on these to come back. I got the driver's side header swapped out no problem, but am now of course stuck on the passenger side. I got the header unbolted, but as everyone knows there is not enough clearance to get it out of the car without removing some stuff. I've read multiple threads on what all has to come out, ranging from just an oil tank line to darn near half the car. So my biggest question at this point is, what all REALLY needs to come off? I know I am going to have to at least remove an oil line...is it number 39 or 41 in the diagram, or both? What else should come off in order to allow header removal? Image Unavailable, Please Login
For the sake of engine bay temps I am a real believer in the insulated manifolds. The few I have needed to change in recent years I still use the TUBI manifolds. I do understand why many want manifolds like those pictured and there are advantages but I don't think the tradeoffs are worth it. Gone round and round with various methods of insulating manifolds on our LSR cars and I have not seen anything as effective as what the Tubi/Factory manifolds have that is practical. The LSR cars made big heat and we really needed to deal with it so we have fooled around with that quite a bit.
Update: got the right side header out. Had to remove the lower oil tank to cooler line (#39) and the fan. With that I was able to remove the header. I've delivered a few human babies in my time, and this somewhat reminded me of that...reach hands in, pull a little, rotate a few degrees, pull down, rotate some more, pull up and out. Look at the difference in this header. Not a single sign of a leak anywhere. Doesn't appear to be any warping of any flanges from a quick visual inspection. Image Unavailable, Please Login
And the boys are having some fun outside the garage on this nice fall day. The biggest reason I wanted my workshop at my house, so my family will be close by while I'm doing car stuff! Image Unavailable, Please Login
quite interesting those gaskets were on both sides. but only caused warping to the flanges on the left side? and from the look and as you said the right side looks perfect.
Addendum to above: one may be able to remove an aftermarket right side header by removing the items mentioned above, but in order to install a factory header one must also remove the axle from the transmission flange and probably the oil cooler.
2:31 AM. All buttoned up, sounds great, no leaks. Now will get these headers fixed and do it all again soon! While looking around during this job I discovered I also need new CV boots, and could use engine mounts too. I'm going to research all the available aftermarket heat shields for the 355 and put every one I can find in there too. Image Unavailable, Please Login
well we have conflicting info here.. I spoke to Glenn, rep for Nouvalari USA, after reading this thread.. and he said not sure why anyone would say they are no longer available..?
Thanks again for all the help in this thread. We made it there and back (about 250 miles) without a hiccup. My car also won best in class for the second year in a row! To cap off the weekend, we passed the 19K mile mark at full throttle in 3rd gear, as per the ceremonial tradition. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
As I got this response: "SORRY WE DO NOT MAKE THE HEADERS ANY MORE REGARDS BOB" I could not interpret differently...
Yes regardless as to what Glen maybe told by them someone at the factory is telling us they are not making them anymore. As of a couplevweeks ago he told me their guy in the uk was gone for the next 2 weeks. In talking to him I also went ahead sent a message to the uk website and I recieved both responces within about a day. Straight from Nouvalaris website's online quote system. I was told that they no longer are making 355 headers. We can only pass the word we are given. Granted he told me the kid would be gone for 2 weeks but made no offer to put in a order so I figured it was a lost cause when the manufacture told me they were NLA.
Looks like the header was overtightened. I had a set of headers that were tough to seal and used the metal crush gaskets (similar to the oem you used) with high temp (bronze) rtv on both sides - I installed on the headers with rtv and then put a bead on the other side and let them dry completely before installing. Made installation easier as no fumbling with the gasket to align to the bolt holes. Then run to temp and re-torque, no leaks for the time I owned the car (was an older muscle car with aftermarket cheap headers).