Steering Rack Removal & Refurb

I initially changed out my worn plastic bushing with an original plastic bushing. One year later the new plastic bushing disintegrated completely. Since then I have only used bronze bushings in my racks. I consider the plastic bushing as being a weak spot in these racks.

Regards Peter

 

Peter,
seems, that you got a NOS bushing. Plastics are like fuel hoses or all things rubber. They deteriorate on the shelf.
Or the bushing was a bad repro part.
For the first thirty years, that bushing was no problem, but suddenly has gotten one. This means for me, it's simply age related.

Best Regards
Martin

 

You are most likely correct Martin. It seems like the plastic bushing could have been brittle from laying on the shelf for 40 odd years. By the way I made a small foto display of the overhaul of my 246 rack including installation of a bronze bushing that some here might find helpful (Roughly same rack as for 308):

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/430377-rebuild-steering-rack.html

Best regards Peter

 

Nice pics Peter. And I think, the only difference we find on these racks is the design of securing the tie rod nuts. Yours has the early design with the notches. Mine the later one with the pin.
If you don't mind, I could add some photos of mine to your thread.
And BTW: How did you remove the old plastic bushing with its sleeve from the rack? I found this a little bit tricky and required improvised special tools.
Maybe you had a smarter solution?

Best Regards

Martin

 

You are very welcome to add photos to the rack rebuild thread! I also have the more troublesome hollow pin securing solution on the 308. They can be a beast to drill out since they are hardened. I always end up milling them out using a small hand held Dremel machine. I removed the bushing sleeve using the extenders from multiple sets of 1/2" socket wrenches as I remember it.

Regards Peter

 

One way to remove the bushing is to take a washer or disc of the appropriate size and then make it an oval. You can then slip it in behind the bushing and from the other end of the rack drive it out. I did something like this but I cannot remember exactly what I used.

 

This is exactly, how I did it. For pushing it out from the other side of the rack, I used a threaded bar with a nut.
On my rack, there was not much left of the plastic bushing. The piece in the third pictures was the biggest.
The rest was black powder.

Best Regards
Martin
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These last posts about removing the bush are very timely, as this is exactly what I am about to do! I was intending to follow the same procedure but I have to say that from what I can see my bush looks to be in very good condition. But I'd rather not have to repeat this job so I will replace it all the same.

One thing I have found is that my rack has 'extensions' riveted on (with 3 rivets). I couldn't see this arrangement on any of the procedures that have been documented.
It looks like I will have to drill these rivets out as they protrude into the tube and will prevent the bush from being tapped out.
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Hi Andy,

if the rivets actually protrude too deep into the tube, you will have to drill them out. One cannot see that on the picture, because the inner tube diameter, where the rivets are, is bigger than the seat of the bushin. With luck, the bushing can pass the rivets.
But I think, those extensions were no bad idea from those folks who designed them.
These extensions mean, that the tie rod ball joints are running inside the tube and not outside like on the earlier design without extensions. This would prevent such an annoyance like I experienced, when some dumb-ass did my track alignment. While turning the tie rods, he twisted the gaiters so bad and didn't readjust them, so that the tie-rod ball joint pinched a hole into my new gaiters as soon as I did the first complete steering lock

Andy, may I ask about the VIN of your car, since in your profile I can read 80/81 and my car is also one of the very last carb GTB, but has a rack without extensions.

Best Regards
Martin

 

Hi Martin,
S/N 31091

It has a 17 digit VIN number, which apparently means it's one of the last handful of Carb'd GTB's that came into the UK.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/142789167-post44.html

 

That's interesting. Much earlier VIN than mine (#34379), but with modified rack.I wonder, Why did they perform this modification only on the RHD-racks?
Are there more differences?
Andy, when the rack is in its center position. Are the tie rod ball joints inside the extensions?
Do they exit the extensions, when steering from lock to lock?
I still wonder about the purpose of these extensions.

BTW? I have not figured out yer, how to quote, to post a single post.

Best
Martin

 

Gentlemen thank you for posting all of this information. I have not yet had to do this project but it is great to see it being archived here for future DIY projects. Keep up the good work.

 

Hi Martin,
IIRC Roberts 308 register shows that the serial numbers up to mine are fairly linear - but there were then a handful of serial numbers that leapt by several thousand (i.e. yours).
So I suspect in terms of build date our cars may not be that far apart.

The extensions only appear to allow the gaiter to cover the tie rod ball joint without excessive stretching. I'll put some photos up but they certainly don't cover the ball joints at any time. And they certainly don't add any support to or have any contact with the rack.

To post a single post, right click on the post number (i.e. #38) in the top right hand corner of the post and it will give you an option to copy the link.

This entire forum has been a goldmine for me, I had only ever done oil changes on cars before I started work on the 308. I do think that they are relatively easy cars to work on. My only bugbear is that a lot of instructions on the web over complicate processes and can be intimidating. Once I get the spanners out and start taking bits off I find common sense to be the greatest asset!

 

Finally got some time to get back on with this job.

Peening
No need for fancy tools in my garage... I used 2 screwdrivers and a hammer.

Extensions
I drilled out the 3 rivets that held on the passenger side extension

Bush
Using the metal rod, nut & washer method I tapped the bush out. It was in perfect condition... the scratches visible on the inside are when my washer folded through the bush and scratched it.
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Can anyone suggest a source for a new bush.

Superformance do sell them (for some reason the website states that 2 are required?)

£8.95 + P&P + VAT (20%) - so probably about £15 (US$ 23.00) to my door, which is a little steep for a penny pinching person like myself!


Edited to add...
There are actually plenty out there, this looks correct, delivered for £6.60 - it's for a Lancia/Fiat rack which is close enough
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/331099476090?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=kwd-75951450786&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

 

Andy,
don't be upset, because you removed the bushing and it looks, as if it were unnecessary.
Mine looked similar, when I once checked it. And one year later it disintegrated. You cannot look into the material.

Sorry, no cheaper source for the bushing, because I made mine myself.
Anyway I would look for someone who could make you one out of POM (Delrin), or bronze, if you would prefer metal.
I recommend this way, since one of our buddies here, reported, that his new bushing just lasted one year or so.
Either they are brittle NOS, or inferior quality repro parts.

Best Regards
Martin

 

Bronze bushing:
Suspension & Chassis 1045 Rack Bushing
Pantera Steering Rack Bushing

I got mine from the first site and have had no issue but it has only been two seasons.