I just installed a photo editor on my phone. So here is a clearer picture of the white tab. Image Unavailable, Please Login
As this opens up, there is a little metal tab on the bottom that you have to kinda twist out. Unfortunately the picture I took isn't too clear. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is a better picture. There are a few spring loaded parts when you open, so be careful that bits don't fly out Image Unavailable, Please Login
One of the jaws back in. Not that the jaws are spring loaded. You can see the spring for the other jaw. It pops underneath the hole, and there is a little tab on the back of the jaw that has to go behind the spring. Image Unavailable, Please Login
In this pic the little bridge piece is attached and also the spring which spring loads the middle bit. I'm holding it down cause if I let go it flys everywhere. Image Unavailable, Please Login
There is a little hole in the case which allows to you put a screwdriver through the spring. This keeps the spring in place so you can close the lid. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So this weekend I was out with the superglue trying to repair my broken switch bezel. However, stop press, thanks to Keith (ktr6), he found a company in Arizona that makes aluminum reproductions. The company is GT car parts. Phone 623 780 220. Part no 62158800A. Cost $60. Website gtcp.com. Just ordered one ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Back at the house for the weekend. Between Xmas preparations managed to get an hour in the garage to work on the drivers door. First problem is the little red pipe is broken which allows the window motor cable to guide correctly. Not only had the red pipe detached from the motor but it was badely bent and when I tried to bend it back it snapped. Looking on ricambi you can't buy this as a "part". I stopped in Home Depot on my way home and bought 2' of 1/4 Pex pipe. Unless somebody has a better idea ?? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next problem is the motor assembly rod has snapped where it joins the motor. I've read other posts where people just weld them. Guess I need to find myself a welding shop in the area. Image Unavailable, Please Login
No welding shops open over Xmas so decided to take apart my passenger door and install the door release cable. put the door back together. Good news is this. When I started the window was taking 8 seconds to go down and 11 to go up. I can now tell you that I've got it down to 3.5 seconds to go down and 4.2 seconds to go up. Very happy ! Here is what was done to achieve this. Firstly clean and grease the guides as discussed above. Second install the window accelerators. This gives you an extra volt or two at the motor and from my testing give at least a full second.
I took out my rear window guide as it was all scratched and I wanted to give it a quick spray Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rubber is held in by two screws. So don't just pull it out. (As I tried too !) Inside the rubber there was ten tons of crud which I cleaned out with hot water and a light sanding sponge. Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the rubber back in this is what mine looked like. This is a major cause of the window issue as the motor has to try and push the glass through that mess. In my case the rubber would catch on the glass and push up with the glass. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I got it to look like this. The glass now has a clear channel to go through. My guess is that new rubber would probably stretch correctly around the window guide, but 25 year old rubber needs a little help. Not sure that the super glue will stand the test of time, we shall see. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The last contributing factor to the window problem are these stupid things. These things hold the motor to the back of the inner door. I assumed this was one stud going through a rubber grommet but it appears that it's two "studs" glued on each side of the rubber grommet. The glue breaks and it's no longer held. (And I was worried that my super glue would stand the test of time). In my case, on the passenger side I had none left so the motor was just dangling. When power is applied to the motor the motor twists in the assembly rather than driving the cable through the guides. This causes the assembly to break as per My drivers side. The motor needs to be mounted securely to the inner door. Image Unavailable, Please Login
