sticky parts

I use spay nine,works great.u can buy it at pep boys.

 

Is it the regular spray nine or the Greez off version that works on the sticky parts? I have some sticky switches that I'd like to treat.

 

We use Purell hand sanitizer at Ricambi for the little parts which need cleanup (they arrive from Ferrari already sticky!!) and it works amazingly well.

But for anything serious, we send them to Sticky No More. I have used Robbie's services as a Ferrari owner on my personal car, and in a B2B relationship through Ricambi. In both permutations, the service, price, and results are top-notch.

 

I used denatured alcohol but the key is a good scratchy sun dried terry rag! Or should I say multiple rags since you don't want to wipe any of the muck into the trim stitching. One wipe and new rag area! I would say that if you cant get it done with those items in short order the parts aren't ready to be de-stickied.

 

Interested in best solution as well


Sent from my 16M

 

Which part are you doing? For the vents and switches alcohol worked well and quickly. For the steering wheel cover the stuff was so thick I had to scrap it off with a plastic putty knife and then finish with alcohol and plastic restorer.

 

I used purple power cleaner/degreaser since it was strong yet safe on parts. Get a full pack of terry rags as Revn Kevin stated and keep reapplying and moving to a clean part of the rag. Some parts were really easy and others were very difficult. Be sure to go back with interior trim conditioner/protectant at the end. Unfortunately some parts took a lot of time and effort. I did all of my parts in one day and literally wore the skin off of my thumbs and finger tips to get it done. The good news is that this is a once and done and no more black gook on you or your lady friend's hands and clothing! Good luck.

 

+1. This works great for the small parts like buttons. For the bigger parts like steering wheel surround and door handles and buckets, they went to SNM. Class A job by them too.

 

I used denatured alcohol, I made a "bath" and put the part in it for a minute or so... then scrub with a rough towel/rag. Put in bath to soften.. then scrub, repeat.

It takes a few cycles but it will take the soft-touch paint off. I also used it on interior parts for my 997 to take the soft touch paint off. For finish I used Wurth or Testors model spray paint to finish.

It never just spray and peel off.. unless perhaps you used an outlawed, highly carcinogenic, use-a-respirator-paint-remover. They always seem to work the best.

 

For all these years, I accept the "sticky buttons" as a part of "Ferrari Ownership" I tried to remove it but failed few times, ended up getting the whole switch panel few times... I must have done something terribly wrong... Now? I just let it be.. Am I crazy not to do something about it?

 

Could somebody post a link where we can buy the spray or whatever? Thanks

 

Jack, funny I just went through this last week. Just did the HE reverse shifter bushing, and in the process I destikied or is that unstickied, or maybe destickified the buttons and ashtray on the console. I tried a few things, and after reading your question, I, being a man of science did some experiments.

First off I noticed there are three basic types of sticky pieces
-black plastic covered with the proprietary Ferrari Tar (e.g. Round air vents)
- white or red plastic covered with black paint. There is a negative stencil to allow back lighting. These are then coated with the F-goo (e.g. parking light and hazard flashers on the console)
-black plastic with white stencils (e.g. Gas door and front bonnet switches)

I used industrial cotton swabs (about the size of a throat culture swab) and tested the following solvents: I did not scrub with anything harsher than the q-tip.

These are what I feel worked best with what I think have the least caustic effects on plastic and underlying black paint, and stenciled white lettering.
-91% isopropyl alcohol
-70% ethanol (denatured rubbing alcohol)
-70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol

Stuff that worked well but I wouldn't recommend:
-Lacquer thinner - worked well but I am concerned about removing underlying black paint and white lettering with it and possible negative effects on plastics
-Non acetone nail polish remover - worked well but I am concerned about removing white lettering and possibly underlying black paint.

Stuff that didn't work at all:
-Goo-off - good all around degreaser and sticky adhesive remover
-Lighter fluid - a good degreaser and I sometimes use it for delicate stuff.
-Green clean
-Orange clean
-four roses single barrel whiskey 80 proof
-sambuca well at least it's Italian -80 proof
-Greek Orzo 92 proof - highest octane I had on the shelf

So I ended up using a simple and free (to me) treatment. Individual medical alcohol swabs. They are small, and can get into all kinds of nooks. They are just rough enough, and easily changed for new. I can see how hand sanitizer would work. The active ingredient is alcohol, and it is viscous so will stay on parts without then being submerged.

I kept the booze, and had a couple of 'em.


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Be careful...if you rub too hard or use something too strong, it will take the silkscreen off the part. Ask me how I know : )

 

for window switches. do you take them off or clean it on the dash? if need to remove it how is it done?

 

The best way to desticky parts is to remove them and do it IMHO.

It's easy, undo the two 4mm (I think..) hex screws that hold the aluminum panel in. Gently pull it outward. There will be connectors on the back of both the switches, undo these and undo the illumination wire (yellow IIRC). The switches can be removed gently for cleaning. If you need to remove the whole panel, then disconnect the wires to the back fo the windwo switches, and then unplug the HVAC wiring connector. Really not bad at all.

 

thank you

 

I do not have many sticky parts but the steering column where the key is inserted, which looks really bad because the sticky "finish" shows a lot of scratches.
Has anyone fixed this with any of the solutions described here??
Thanks
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Too big of a job for me so I sent out to SNM. Came out perfect.

 

So you had the same problem in the same key area? Was it difficult to remove that part to ship it to SNM? How much did they charge?


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It wasn't too bad taking it off. Upper and lower part. I think there are four screws to remove below. Then carefully pry apart with a nylon pry tool until it pops apart. Getting it back in took a bit of finesse.
Email Robbie at SNM for a current price list. He is a sponsor on Fchat. Not cheap but IMHO worth it.