Snapped timing belt 355 | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Snapped timing belt 355

Discussion in '348/355' started by ang308, Dec 2, 2015.

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  1. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Thank God the harness is good on this. I think it was more time consuming to disconnect and label all the connection than actually to pull motor out of car. Everything is in the way and you have to have midget hands.
    I went with the headers without the secondary injection because I don't have cats anyway. If it throws a check engine so be it. I finally made some time to get this car running again because it really is a fun car to drive. And beautiful to listen to. Music to my ears. As soon as I get the parts in I will continue to update the progress. Thanks to everyone for their help.
     
  2. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    In my opinion I'd convert it. It really does feel like a different car. A bit lighter in the front and no more of the shoveling feeling you feel when you're turning. On top of that one less thing that can go wrong. Heard some stories of the front differential locking up with not too pleasing end results. Also much less drivetrain noise.
    And the beauty of it all it's reversible. I pulled whole unit with axles and driveshaft out. Some people just disconnect driveshaft but I didn't like the idea of front differential locking up.
     
  3. tr512

    tr512 Formula 3

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    Did you buy the after market hubs? or did you just take apart your axle's?
     
  4. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    I put some stubs I bought from I believe whiteout is his name on the Lamborghini forums.
     
  5. ghardt

    ghardt Formula 3

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    What is the red coupe in top of left 4 post lift? Looks very cool.
     
  6. tr512

    tr512 Formula 3

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    thanks
     
  7. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    It's an 87 lotus esprit turbo. That's next in line to be serviced. Have to pull motor and change headers turbo and timing belt as well. Too many projects and not enough time.
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. ghardt

    ghardt Formula 3

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    Thank you. Good problem to have. Health and long life to you!
     
  9. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

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    You don't need to buy an engine lift to get to the bolts on the bottom. Roll your engine/cart under the 2 post lift. Run some nylon webbing straps from the lift to the motor subframe, raise the lift a little and, presto, engine and sub frame are in the air! Lower it onto some handstands and go to it.
     
  10. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    I have an engine hoist I just have to dig it out. Will do it his weekend. Hopefully some parts start trickling in as well so I can start to put motor back together. I'm psyched to get car running again now. I can almost feel it
     
  11. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Ok so ran into my first snag. My old motor has to crank sensors and the new motor only has one. That in itself is not the problem. The problem is there is nowhere to mount second crank sensor. Hopefully it's as easy as changing oil pans. My motor is an F129b and new motor is F129c. They are both 95 engines. So I pray it's a simple swap of oil pans. Is there any difference between the B and C motors? Here are photos first is my motor with the 2 crank sensors and the elbow on which it's mounted. This is the f129b motor
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  12. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  13. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  14. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  15. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    So I hope the oil pans are interchangeable. Anything I should look out for or make sure when removing oil pans? And what difference is between the B and C engines? Thanks guys
     
  16. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    So more progress today. Unfortunately it looks like maybe this is a late 95 motor that came with the 5.2 motronic setup. Meaning I have to switch some parts from old motor to new one. Oil pan, water pipe, throttle bodies. And I thought it would be a quick engine exchange. Boy was I wrong. Anyways I took oil pan and you DO NOT have to take the Hex head bolt on bottom of oil pan out to take pan out. You do however have to change O-ring. Here's a photo of pan with the bolt still attached
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  18. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Now intakes. First photo is of the 95 2.7 motor where it has a TPS switch on both runners and also has orange injectors and at the end of the rail there's a pressure relief valve which the 5.2 motor does not have. So there are some differences
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  19. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  20. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Now the water pipe going to the heat exchange although the same dimensions have only one temp sending unit on the 5.2 motor and 2 for the 2.7. Here is a photo of the 2.7
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  21. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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  22. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Hopefully this is last of differences between motors. Oil pan was a pain I hope I can put it back without leaks. So a question for experts. Do I put pan first and then rear main seal housing or housing first then pan?
     
  23. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran Silver Subscribed

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    Pan first.

    1995 had a one year only oil pan, most likely that sensor is the only difference. They just cut that chunk of on the 5.2 cars.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2015
  24. INTMD8

    INTMD8 F1 Veteran Owner Silver Subscribed

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    What about cam sensors? Isn't there 2 on 2.7 one on 5.2?
     
  25. ang308

    ang308 Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    You would think there would be 2 but I only have one. I checked on the ricambi site and up to engine number 38321 there were 2. So I don't know how that works out. Maybe signal is split into 2.
     

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