Quick question on taking testarossa motor out... | FerrariChat

Quick question on taking testarossa motor out...

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by bpu699, Dec 6, 2015.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    16,247
    wisconsin/chicago
    Full Name:
    bo
    #1 bpu699, Dec 6, 2015
    So, this is going slow as molasses due to weather and life obligations...

    Car is on a scissor life, wheels on...

    I disconnected everything required (as far as I know!)...

    Undid all 16 bolts on the y-frame connecting to the body at the front... Those things were previously torqued on by superman after 6 cups of coffee and some steroids... ;)

    Lowered the car onto its wheels, and undid the 4 main subframe bolts along the back, and the 16 bolts (4 each) at the shock towers...

    Supported the front of the motor with a jack...

    Started to slowly lift up the body.... inch by inch...

    Well...I was expecting this thing to just about fall out... it didn't...

    Raised it 6 inches... the rear subframe is separating off... the front y-frame is still lined up with the body like its fused... All the bolts are out, I triple checked (16, right?)... You can't slide a piece of paper between the two...

    Odd...

    The shocks are still slightly compressed...

    Do I just keep slowly lifting? Its just odd that the front isn't "separating"... Is this normal until you lift it a certain distance?

    Or, did I forget something stupid?
     
  2. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #2 vincenzo, Dec 6, 2015
    it should not 'drop'....

    something is still connected - shift shaft perhaps?

    it should stay put as you lift the car.
     
  3. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,402
    Alabama (was Mich.)
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #3 carguy, Dec 6, 2015
    You want the entire sub-frame to come off parallel to the body as much as possible. Lower the car down a little so the gap at the rear cross-frame is 2 or 3 inches. Hit the front frame mounting points with a hammer to try and break it loose. Also confirm as Vincenzo mentions...that the shift shaft is disconnected. Lastly...look closely at the shock studs area, maybe get a pry bar in there and slightly separate the lower an upper flanges. The shock studs can sometimes bind up and prevent a clean separation.
     
  4. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    16,247
    wisconsin/chicago
    Full Name:
    bo
    #4 bpu699, Dec 7, 2015
    Will do guys... will try on thursday, the next time I have a couple hours to get all greasy...

    Shift shaft is disconnected...

    As I said before, I give you guys a lot of credit for doing this without a lift - thats amazing!!!

    The scissor lift helps, but it posed a lot of problems too. The main runners are right below where the main frame connects to the engine cradle... Getting to those 16 nuts was much more work than it would have been on a 2 post lift.

    This should be a fun winter project in the wisconsin cold :).
     
  5. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
    BANNED

    Nov 10, 2005
    1,668
    Ithaca, New York
    Full Name:
    Kerry David Wittig
    #5 kerrywittig, Dec 7, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just thought that others may find this "innovation" I fabricated and installed on my shift shaft....Makes it much easier and safer (shaft won't get bent) to remove the engine now.

    I've gotten it down to a sciene now....3 1/2 hours from the time I park it on the lift till it's out and ready for belts and bearings to be installed. 6 hours and it's back in and on the street.

    Pix aren't the best, but gives an idea of what I came up with to quicken the R & R procedure and not have to worry about the shaft getting hung up and getting bent.

    Remove the bolt (not pictured or in the bore) that "clamps" the two "claws" together... swing the shaft out of the way at the engine/transmission attachment point or remove that portion all together..........and your ready to drop the subframe with no close clearance issues....

    Making it easy Me
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  6. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jul 25, 2008
    14,112
    Amersfoort, The Netherlands, Europe.
    Full Name:
    Mel
    #6 Melvok, Dec 7, 2015
    Real craftmanship imo ! Nice done :)
     
  7. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,919
    southwest germany and thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    #7 turbo-joe, Dec 8, 2015
    very good idea kerry :)
     
  8. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    16,247
    wisconsin/chicago
    Full Name:
    bo
    #8 bpu699, Dec 8, 2015
    You can get the motor out in 3 hours? I salute you!
     
  9. qwazipsycho

    qwazipsycho Formula 3

    Oct 30, 2004
    1,176
    Utah
    Full Name:
    Scott
    #9 qwazipsycho, Dec 8, 2015
    I"v had mine out countless times now. I can have it out in about 3 hours or less. The first time I did it, I bent my shift shaft. Now I just take it completely out so it's out of the way.

    Make sure your 2 coolant hoses are either removed or have very loose clamps. brake line, battery cable, ....I think that's about it for the front.

    BTW - You don't have to take off all 16 nuts on the shock towers. It's either 2 or 3 per shock. The other1 or 2 can stay on. You'll see when you get it out.
     
  10. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    16,247
    wisconsin/chicago
    Full Name:
    bo
    #10 bpu699, Dec 8, 2015
    Thanks guys...

    I really hope not to be doing this again in my life time :)...

    I envy folks that collect american iron. The access to everything is amazing... I could put my living room sofa against a mustang 302 motor and still close the hood :).
     
  11. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,919
    southwest germany and thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    #11 turbo-joe, Dec 8, 2015
    you have such a small sofa :)
     
  12. qwazipsycho

    qwazipsycho Formula 3

    Oct 30, 2004
    1,176
    Utah
    Full Name:
    Scott
    #12 qwazipsycho, Dec 8, 2015
    Why??? At the end of the day, they're all driving belly button cars. You sir are in a FERARRI! :)

    If you do the work yourself you'll appreciate the car more as well as become an experienced Ferrari mechanic. I would never have attempted my diff replacement without the wealth of knowledge on this site however.
     
  13. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,919
    southwest germany and thailand
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    #13 turbo-joe, Dec 9, 2015
    scott,
    before you start changing a diff you also must have some experience as a mechanic. without any knowledge and "2 left hands" when you are used working with the rigth hand, you will not be able to so this job. also you must have knowledge how all is working together taht you know what you do and why you do it
     
  14. 88Testarossa

    88Testarossa Formula 3

    Sep 25, 2012
    2,450
    Annapolis and Daytona Beach
    Full Name:
    Al
    #14 88Testarossa, Dec 9, 2015

    I climbed into the engine compartment of my wife's 69 GTO (one owner) to remove the radiator and have it recored.

    The GTO is so spacious in the engine compartment that there is room for a full sectional sofa.


    Sent by incredibly fast electrons
     

Share This Page