355 OBD II recall update needed.... Help

Never had an issue with smog testing just I bought a real high end scanner and wont link to the 355. works fantastic on everything else.

I will check resistance on all the leads I think possibly a weak ground. Will check for a weak K line IN also and if so will run a wire direct from the ecu to take care of that

 

If you have access to an oscilloscope you can see the weak signal. My OBDII tester works fine on my '98, but the smog machine was my problem. My manual or F1 question was actually directed to the OP.

 

Yes I have one. Cool thanks when I get some free time I will give it a good look

 

If you want to dyi or have your mechanic do it, find the recall it describes with photos barney style how to do the fix.

Check your harness and obd conection pin out that's the only way to verify.
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Where did it come from?

 

Have the dealership do the update, or give it a go yourself. Is your 355 manual or F1?

 

Mario Lomedico is s NJ authorized inspection shop so there's a good chance the inspection sticker he had here was from him and not the DMV facility. If so it may not have been hooked up to an emission scanner through the OBD port

 

The only way to reset all parameters on the ECU is to drive the car in as many conditions you can think of. I've been an owner of a 1998 355 F1 GTS and know far too much about getting my car to pass smog.

If you need to know more PM me for my phone number.

My 2004 575M will smog clean in any shopping center smog shed.

Good Luck!!!
Cheers,
Marc
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For anyone having OBD connection issues, make sure your immobilizer is disarmed. If the immobilizer is on (blinking led on dash) then the scanner will not connect.

 

Bingo...I sent him that in a PM..3 days ago. Most inspection center's don't know that.I would think that that was the problem if it works on some scanner's only.

 

I too sent that same PM, learned this from an old post after much wasted time.

 

Drive her, everything will reset. That's the most pleasant work I have ever done on any car.

 

Skipp,
What didn't reset yet?
You may have a software issue. PM me if you want to.
Cheers,
Marc

 

Do you know what specific sensor hasn't reset?

 

Explained and the service bulletin

Here is a procedure how to get this done as fast as possible explaining what the drive cycles are doing. I use a loop on the roads in my area sunday mornign and can get this mostly on the first try.


The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive
cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory,
or after the battery has been disconnected.
Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can
be detected. This is vital for the purposes of our PPI.
The OBDII drive cycle MUST begin with a cold start:
- coolant temperature below 122 degrees F
- coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another
NOTE:
The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor
diagnostic may not run.


F-Car Step 1:
Start the cold engine directly from the key ‘off’ position.
With no driver input, let the engine idle with the ECU in full control of the
idle speed for four (4) minutes.

~ OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.


F-Car Step 2a
Accelerate with moderate throttle and shifting into 3rd or 4th gear &
2,000- 2,500 RPM

~ OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.


F-Car Step 2b

Hold this steady state engine speed in the same gear at 2,000-2,500 RPM
for 3.5 miles.

~ OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.


F-Car Step 2c
Increase the engine speed at a modest rate to 4,500 RPM and hold for 10
seconds or a bit more to ensure a steady state condition.
Decelerate to 2,000 RPM without braking or depressing the clutch.

~ OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.


F-Car Step 3a:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without double clutch blipping of the throttle. Declutch to neutral
when the slowing engine speed calls for it.
Let the engine idle with the engine in neutral and with the clutch out at the
side of the road. Allow the ECU to fully control idle speed with no driver
input.
For a full 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle in neutral with no driver input.
During this 5 minutes of idling, do not change the engine loading by switching
on any accessories (like the A/C).


F-Car Step 3b:
Switch the engine and key fully off after the 5 minute idle.
Keep the key in the off position for 15 to 20 seconds.


F-Car Step 4:
Restart the car and drive it at a moderate acceleration back up to 3rd or
4th in the 2,500 to 3,500 RPM range (i.e.: “normal driving”).
~ OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
Continue to drive for at least 10 minutes with the car under this steady
state condition (2,500 to 3,500 RPM).

~ OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim,
oxygen sensors and purge functions.


F-Car Step 5:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without any double clutch blipping of the throttle. As appropriate,
keep the engine in gear as you de-accelerate.

~ OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
Check readiness codes w/ OBDII scanner
Categories: Ferrariworkshop Technical Articles, Ferrari Lifestyle
Tags: drive cycle, ferrari
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very useful. thanks for posting