355 OBD II recall update needed.... Help

Never had an issue with smog testing just I bought a real high end scanner and wont link to the 355. works fantastic on everything else.

I will check resistance on all the leads I think possibly a weak ground. Will check for a weak K line IN also and if so will run a wire direct from the ecu to take care of that

 

If you have access to an oscilloscope you can see the weak signal. My OBDII tester works fine on my '98, but the smog machine was my problem. My manual or F1 question was actually directed to the OP.

 

Yes I have one. Cool thanks when I get some free time I will give it a good look

 

So, I called FCI Greensboro. They said based on my VIN, I didn't need the port update and that not all 355s needed it. Mines a 98.

My cheap scanner connects to the ecu just fine. Do you guys think I still should do the updated ground pin ?

If the scan tool works, does that mean I don't need the additional ground pin ?

Still won't connect at DMV inspection

 

If you want to dyi or have your mechanic do it, find the recall it describes with photos barney style how to do the fix.

Check your harness and obd conection pin out that's the only way to verify.
View attachment obd2.pdf

 

Where did it come from?

 

Have the dealership do the update, or give it a go yourself. Is your 355 manual or F1?

 

The car was last in NJ, but I bought it from Blackhorse. 98 F1

No open recalls on the car according to Ferrari.

I know what to do to update it and parts are on the way from Ricambi, but I'm really curious why my scanner works but the inspection station doesn't.

FCI said they have 355s that only seem to work on the machine they have for some reason.
The further said that I shouldn't need the update according to my VIN

Thanks for all the help folks.

 

Mario Lomedico is s NJ authorized inspection shop so there's a good chance the inspection sticker he had here was from him and not the DMV facility. If so it may not have been hooked up to an emission scanner through the OBD port

 

To wrap this thread up, it seems the 355 connects to some DMV machines and not others. Two machines in Charlotte would not work, so I drove to Waxhaw, NC (40 miles) at the suggestion of my local shop to Hennn Automoticve. Their machine connected fine, but I had cleared some old codes on the way there using my scanner. This apparently put the ecu into reset mode and the machine couldn't get the catalyst info it needed. F$&@k Me!!
Now I've got to get the parameters to recycle and try again.
All for the F$&@king government ! I could be producing something for the GDP, but No !!
How can the Gov. Require something on my car when most of their machines won't connect !!

At least I didn't have to hack into the OBD2 harness. Apparently FCI was correct on my VIN not needing that update.

Thanks to all my friends that made suggestions.

Still open to suggestions on how to quickly get this cars systems reset so I can go for the inspection.

 

The only way to reset all parameters on the ECU is to drive the car in as many conditions you can think of. I've been an owner of a 1998 355 F1 GTS and know far too much about getting my car to pass smog.

If you need to know more PM me for my phone number.

My 2004 575M will smog clean in any shopping center smog shed.

Good Luck!!!
Cheers,
Marc
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For anyone having OBD connection issues, make sure your immobilizer is disarmed. If the immobilizer is on (blinking led on dash) then the scanner will not connect.

 

Bingo...I sent him that in a PM..3 days ago. Most inspection center's don't know that.I would think that that was the problem if it works on some scanner's only.

 

I too sent that same PM, learned this from an old post after much wasted time.

 

Thanks for the replies, but it's not the alarm. The car is running, etc. and alarm off. I'm doing the connection personally. The issue at this point is that only "some" inspection machines in our area will connect to a 355. It's not only my car.

Anyway, just waiting for system "readiness" at this point.

 

Drive her, everything will reset. That's the most pleasant work I have ever done on any car.

 

True that. I'm at 125 miles and still no dice

 

Skipp,
What didn't reset yet?
You may have a software issue. PM me if you want to.
Cheers,
Marc

 

The readiness drive cycles. I reset things yesterday, it's gonna take some drive cycles and miles apparently

 

Do you know what specific sensor hasn't reset?

 

Explained and the service bulletin

Here is a procedure how to get this done as fast as possible explaining what the drive cycles are doing. I use a loop on the roads in my area sunday mornign and can get this mostly on the first try.


The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive
cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory,
or after the battery has been disconnected.
Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can
be detected. This is vital for the purposes of our PPI.
The OBDII drive cycle MUST begin with a cold start:
- coolant temperature below 122 degrees F
- coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another
NOTE:
The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor
diagnostic may not run.


F-Car Step 1:
Start the cold engine directly from the key ‘off’ position.
With no driver input, let the engine idle with the ECU in full control of the
idle speed for four (4) minutes.

~ OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.


F-Car Step 2a
Accelerate with moderate throttle and shifting into 3rd or 4th gear &
2,000- 2,500 RPM

~ OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.


F-Car Step 2b

Hold this steady state engine speed in the same gear at 2,000-2,500 RPM
for 3.5 miles.

~ OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.


F-Car Step 2c
Increase the engine speed at a modest rate to 4,500 RPM and hold for 10
seconds or a bit more to ensure a steady state condition.
Decelerate to 2,000 RPM without braking or depressing the clutch.

~ OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.


F-Car Step 3a:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without double clutch blipping of the throttle. Declutch to neutral
when the slowing engine speed calls for it.
Let the engine idle with the engine in neutral and with the clutch out at the
side of the road. Allow the ECU to fully control idle speed with no driver
input.
For a full 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle in neutral with no driver input.
During this 5 minutes of idling, do not change the engine loading by switching
on any accessories (like the A/C).


F-Car Step 3b:
Switch the engine and key fully off after the 5 minute idle.
Keep the key in the off position for 15 to 20 seconds.


F-Car Step 4:
Restart the car and drive it at a moderate acceleration back up to 3rd or
4th in the 2,500 to 3,500 RPM range (i.e.: “normal driving”).
~ OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
Continue to drive for at least 10 minutes with the car under this steady
state condition (2,500 to 3,500 RPM).

~ OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim,
oxygen sensors and purge functions.


F-Car Step 5:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without any double clutch blipping of the throttle. As appropriate,
keep the engine in gear as you de-accelerate.

~ OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
Check readiness codes w/ OBDII scanner
Categories: Ferrariworkshop Technical Articles, Ferrari Lifestyle
Tags: drive cycle, ferrari
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very useful. thanks for posting

 

To sum this up, the car passed today !

The car did not need the update....VIN search with Ferrari was correct
Car doesn't connect to every inspection machine, but I found some that it did
I cleared the codes, so it took about four drive cycles to reset the monitors.
No VooDoo needed once monitors were reset

Thanks to all that commented