1992-1998 Ferrari 456GT and 456GTA Stereo Guide (iPod and more)

How did you go with the spoiler mate??

 

Not to derail this great thread - i'll update the specific thread.

 

Bluetooth to USB Streaming Receiver

Does anyone have a recommendation for one that works with the XA-300 ?

 

2nd question

I'm not married to the original hifi - and even when it works it's a bit crap.

So given the depth issues for the cabin unit,
What modern solutions are available to replace the entire old system.

Just can not seem to find any solutions with a remote 1 din panel.

 

Well, the fitment in my car has an alpine head unit with a detachable face plate. There is cat5 or cat6 soldered to the pins on the face plate connector, and then to the head unit that is mounted in the boot/trunk along with a Jl audio amp driving aftermarket speakers.

My alpine has a non functioning display so I wanted it replaced. Instead I got the parrot - and I believe that it's power amp is being used instead of the Jl audio amp as it runs to clipping at very low volumes.

You'll need to fab a face plate mount - I have a leather panel that fills the space and the face plate is hot melt glued in place. I'll try find a better pic.

When I get home from Indonesia I'll take some pix of the back of the face plate.

It's all pretty straight forward, but the soldering is very fiddly.

 

Hi John,

I only found 1 headless stereo (rockfordfosgate), but the remote control panel was a different shape.

So that then led me to the same idea, could the detachable panel with it's multi-pin connector be extended with a Cat6 cable or similar, so that the main unit was in the boot and the panel in the cabin.

So my question is, using the extension cable did the unit fully work originally ?

There is a lovely Boss unit with a LCD (TV) display - which would be perfect for showing the reverse cam. But it has something like 16 pin connector.

 

I have read about a few people who have done it.

HUs with detachable face for remote mounting

 

The problem with the Alpine display is probably a faded LCD filter, similar to what happend to '80's Corvette displays which fade and become apparently non functional because of UV. So that could be an easy fix if you're still ok with its function. Test it with a pair of Polaroid sunglasses.
I have just switched to a Kenwood BT35 radio in one of the classic range rovers and I now think I was stupid for not doing it sooner. That Bluetooth works quite well and includes streaming music and a separate mike with noise reduction. The BT35 is too basic in my opinion though and it has a few quirks including occasional memory loss. So i would shop for a better radio if I was you and have that built in in the way your alpine is.
There are mechaless radios that might fit the space with some modifications but that would mean a lot of wiring. Using the same setup by extending the faceplate with the existing cat cable will probably work again. Mind you there is a risk it will not work, the extension may inhibit proper communication between faceplate and radio. The Sony/Ferrari original was modified with cable drivers to ensure this.

 

So, I've installed the XA-300 and can switch to my second source (or 3rd or USB input) quite easily. Very easy modification - takes you longer to remove the carpet than anything else!

I'm going to install a bluetooth unit, but I need to make connections to power to keep the bluetooth receiver working. I've tested it using a very cheap BT receiver and it seems to work fine with the car stood still.

One thing I can't understand is how the speakers work - the head unit line out in the boot (trunk) has only the rear line out L+R connected to the 2 channel amplifier.
In the vehicle their seems to be 3 pairs of speakers - in the front doors behind the carpet, on top the dash next to the A pillar, and on the rear parcel shelf sides.

So how does the front units get their amplification ? as you can fade front to rear using the controls on the front panel in the centre console.

 

Front speakers consists of tweeters in dash with passive crossover, speaker in door cards, both powered by the head unit amp in the boot. Rears are tweeters with passive crossovers, in rear qtr panels above parcel shelf, speakers under rear seats/lower chassis, the rears are powered by the second amp the boot.

 

Hi Guys,

Here is something I found for custom car and boat applications. The company is called Out of Sight Audio that makes a bluetooth car stereo system that could be mounted anywhere in your car and controlled with a bluetooth device. You just use your iphone, android or tablet to play music.

Out of Sight Audio - Bluetooth Audio Stereo Radio for Vintage Classic Cars

Panda

 

Thanks Number 46.

The second amplifier seems to be a Sony XM3020 (30Wx2).
For the little USB powered bluetooth module I have bought that I will use with the XA-300, I need to hook up a 12V to USB power convertor.
I will tap into the cables on this second amplifier for power to the USB converter pins 6 & 8 on the connector.
Pin out of the Power and Speakers connector is as per picture (note cable colours in the pinout are not the ferrari colours - see first picture)
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Problems with using those connections are that your front speakers will not work, how to properly control volume, and how to switch from radio to bluetooth, etc?
I have activated the "walkman" input function of the original radio (how's that for a period item) on mine as an aux-in, which makes it possible to hook up anything to it from a bluetooth unit, IPod or phone, etc. It's not 1-2-3 and requires work on both the faceplate and the rear unit, but it can be done.

 

updated post #37 above.
my connection to the 2nd amplifier is to rob some small power for the USB powered Bluetooth unit only.
I have an XA-300 as well.

testing was fine, until i closed the boot, the metal lid stops the bluetooth connection when closed!

I will need to move the bluetooth unit to underneath the (fibreglass & leather) parcel shelf instead and try that.

2nd update - my wife was complaining about the passenger front speakers cutting in and out - looks like I have an issue with the main head unit :-(
however I've tried the pre-amp out of the head unit into the rear amplifier and that works. Looks like the left amplifier is blown in the head unit (serving the front speakers), a 4 channel amplifier as the OP used will solve this but a lot of rewiring will be necessary ;-(

 

sony XTC-U200 is clip off front version of the 456GT stereo, so if anyone is looking front panel parts, like LCD, you may want to take a look at that as well

 

That XTC-U200 headunit will be very difficult to find as it will be seen as nothing special by most, I suspect few people will ebay it.
Head unit amplifier uses a number of electrolytic caps that fail because of heat.

 

Thanks 166&456, I suspect that's what's happened on mine.

The pre-amp out still works, so looks like a 4 channel amplifier is the way forwards.
Sony only seem to make one now XM-N1004, I'm just not sure if its too big to fit - I need to take some measurements.

 

Those caps are quite easily replaced if you have some time and soldering skills or know someone. Parts are only a few euros.
Lacking that, you can also add a small 2x20W amplifier. I am not sure whether eventually the amp on the headunit might give in because of the caps though.

 

so do you think it would be better to replace the caps, or replace the existing amplifier with a small 4 channel one ?

 

In my opinion when faced with dilemmas such as this there are only two options, full renovation or full restoration of the item. Both add value, renovation by adding functionality, looks (or both), by replacement of the original for a more contemporary item. Restoration adds value because it is proper repair and fixing of weak points to original spec.
When renovating, the original removed items should preferably be kept so restoration to original is still possible.
Anything in between leaves a non-original solution and of no added or even negative value to either collector or user. When aiming for a collector market the best choice is always original.
Personally I think adding that 4-ch amp is not a good solution. When faced with this issue I restored the original radio but as EE that was an easy one for me.

 

Thanks 166&456

I will try to find a local electronics expert willing to take it on.
I suspect I will end up taking the car to them to get it sorted.
I have found the service manual online and purchased it, as this will help.

 

It's really not difficult to change them. I would not bring the entire car, will make it more difficult to find someone and there's always the risk of joyrides. It is quite easy to get the unit from the car, you will need to unbolt the head unit from the frame (4 bolts on either end, 8mm wrench size). The drawback of that is that the unit cannot be tested outside of the car, without the faceplate.

From memory it is 2 capacitors per channel, which would mean 8 in total (the ones for the rear amp will have failed as well, even if the outputs of that amp are not used - you might as well change them while at it). If you have difficulty finding a local hobbyist you can send the unit to me, if you are willing to handle the risk for damage in shipping etc then send me a PM, I can do it for a small amount for time & materials.

I should have written you that I have the service manual PDF of that Sony radio, even for the Ferrari version.

 

BTW, I have those PDFs on my other PC, if I am at it I will look up the part numbers to be changed for you.
To verify, this issue will present itself as front speakers that are or regularly go silent, as well as occasional unwanted sounds (popping, crackling) of the speakers that varies with how long the stereo is on.
Another issue with the front speakers is that with bad weatherproofing plastic in the door they can get wet, this will also cause crackling or dead speakers (but all the time).

 

Thanks 166&456 for helping me sort my radio issue, and the walkman mod - fault was traced to front left speaker cable shorting against speaker frame - which looks like it has been fixed before.

With your walkman mod, I no longer need the XA-300 input switcher.
I've also took your advice, and now with my fixed stereo, I have stuck with the original 2 channel amplifier too.

I have replaced the OEM Ferrari 157408 speaker with a Rockford Fosgate 1572 5"x7" speaker, that is 60mm deep (as per the original).
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Reviving what seems to be a continuing thread... Gizzi, would you mind posting pics of your final install of the Parrot device? Thinking of doing the same, although not so much interested in the hands free phone capabilities as I am in the actual streaming of music... Do you see it feasible to just leave the unit in the trunk for this purpose and forget about the mic/other controls?

Also, where are you pulling power from for the Parrot device in the trunk?

Cheers!

Ruben