CCM breaks hard at complete stop...driving me nuts!

What do the surfaces of the rotor look like?

 

i've never been able to determine the condition by looking at it

would you shed some lights?

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I do not observe this effect with my 599.

Might it be a matter of pad material?

 

I think it just takes some serious getting used to...same thing has happened to me in my SLS AMG. It still catches me by surprise every so often - especially after I've been driving other cars with normal steel brakes.

Perhaps try driving barefoot (or just socks) so you can get a better feel for the pedal modulation.

 

the rotors look ok. Is the braking force consistent throughout braking, or just as you're coming to a stop? i.e. does it feel good coming down from 60-20mph, or is your concern 10mph-stop?

Again, I think (?) you are saying the brakes grab/bite hard. Generally, that's a desirable trait, as ceramics that are poorly bedded end up having little bite, or require a bit of heat to perform well.

A few random thoughts

1) your car IS 12 years old? at 10K miles, the rotors are likely not "worn", but the pads can/will/do get iffy with age. I would not rush out and get new pads, but a fresh set and proper bedding would be ideal. Rotors can look ok but be glazed, which compromises performance, but generally towards insufficient braking force.

2) assume the brake system has been flushed/bed properly and regularly?

3) is the pedal hard, mushy, or does it start firm/get mushy/have travel?

As a few people stated, my experience with Ferrari brakes (esp on the current generation) are that they are a bit over boosted, very sensitive to good bedding (or, to incomplete bedding), and require heat to work properly.

 

sorry, I was referring to the brake fluid being replaced, the system bled, which should be annually at worst, if you use on track then before/after each event (that's me, I'll do it between sessions sometimes).

OK, so 1) no internet diagnosis should be trusted on mechanical issues, but 2) your brakes sounds like they working fine....the low speed stuff is something (as mentioned) you can adjust to.

If I may - most (99%?) of people driving on the street apply the brakes by softly/gently getting on them, and add pressure as they come to a stop, sometimes using engine braking or downshifting to help slow the car.

One thing to try is the technique that you should use on track, which is hard initial pressure, then slowly release as you transition through the corner back to power. On the street, this means a bit more pressure at first, then tailing off. Train your foot to reduce (vs. increase) pressure. (it's a basic element of trail braking on track). DON'T practice in traffic, but as you get comfortable doing it, you'll learn a new skill and hopefully this characteristic will become less annoying.

(add #3) never take driving advice off the internet either)

 

Find a deserted backroad with some long straights.
Put the car into 3rd gear at 40-odd MPH and leave it in 3rd gear.
Repeat point:
Stomp on the gas until the car is over 90 MPH,
Slam on the brakes HARD until the car is under 30 MPH,
Repeat 3-5 times: (or when you can smell the brakes with the windows up)

Drive at moderate speed for at least 5 minutes without touching the brakes.

Done.

Your pads look just fine.

 

Proper bedding in or pads involves running the car up to certain speeds several times and forcefully applying the brakes to a near stop. Per Cool Carbon:

Brake Pad Bedding Information

Regular Bedding Street/track

Drive normally over the course of several hundred miles while gradually increasing pedal effort with each subsequent stop until pedal feel is firm and predictable and brakes feel fully seated. If brake pads are forced to become hot due to emergency braking, it is best to drive to cool the brakes down prior to coming to a complete stop assuming that circumstances permit.


Accelerated Bedding revised 01.08.10

Part 1 (NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION)

a) Perform a series of 10 to 15 partial stops from 65 mph to 10 mph (preferred) with the first 3 under moderate braking, increasing to 75% to 90% of full braking during the series of stops. (Please ensure compliance with all applicable laws and ordinances.)
b) Performance should increase somewhat during this process and fall off toward the end of this cycle.
c) Do not come to a complete stop during this cycle, if at all possible, as this may interrupt the material transfer process to the rotor surface; Note: material transfer process will take longer with new rotors.
d) If friction smell becomes excessive during this first series of stops, become less aggressive with braking and complete the test sequence. Excessive braking at this stage can cause the resins to be released from the friction material leading to Green fade and coating of the rotor surfaces with excessive amounts of resin, which is undesirable, rather than a proper mix of friction material.
e) Allow the brakes to cool by driving at higher allowable speeds and with little if any braking, if possible.

Part 2
a) Repeat the above sequence, including the cooling section
b) Generally 2 complete sequences is often sufficient
c) A 3rd sequence may be performed if deemed necessary.
d) Allow brakes to cool, as per above, before coming to a complete stop or parking the vehicle

Notes: Pads driven primarily on street will require periodic more aggressive braking, to replenish/maintain the transfer layer of material on the rotor surface.
Note: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION during the bedding procedure as this may result in a non-uniform transfer of friction material to the rotor surface and a reduction in braking smoothness. The rotor surface may require attention if this occurs. (e.g.ScotchBrite/BrakeKleen).

 

Surface looks fine, the pictured brake pad likely needs to be replaced though. They should be replaced when they wear 50%, which it would appear has happened here.

 

24,000RPMs : )

They would definitely check brakes in a PPI.

Hard to see entirely, but your pads look pretty thick there.

 

if the PPI said the "brakes are at 90%", I'd bet $20 that they were specifically referring to rotor wear (i.e., they are worn down 10%) and it was a direct reading off the SD3 computer.

the brake wear readings are usually accurate enough for street use, but they are algorithmically calculated, not based on the actual performance or condition of the brakes. The pads do have a wear sensor and will alarm when they get low, but as mentioned, by then you'll notice brake performance and brake feel has changed

given your mileage, it might be worth asking if the brake pads were inspected during the PPI, or the next time you're near the shop, ask them to remove and inspect the pads (it takes about 15 mins or less). I only say that as the pads are 12 years old, and I tend to be very anal about brakes....if they are working to your satisfaction and no issues, totally your decision.

 

I am so sorry Neil for messing up with your thread, I should start my own but having been started a little too many threads i am afraid i broke my own protocol of keeping a low profile

..... sorry.....