starting to tackle my AC System, need a heads up.

If you check the parts reference thread, you will find information on new compressors in the 200-300 dollar range. Hopefully your ac clutch is good. It can be swapped over. Good luck!

 

I would have the system flushed and leak tested before tearing it apart. I was going to just replace my compressor as it was leaking at the shaft seal but ended up replacing or refurbishing everything based on what I found while taking components apart. If you have it tested before taking it apart, you will know what you are up against. It is also easier to flush all connected, plus you haven't altered your initial condition and you won't end up with any contaminates in a fresh compressor.

 

You really have little choice. You need to buy hoses compatible with whatever you are going to charge it with. 134 will eventually leak right out of the stock ones.

 

My York AC compressor is the original on my '87. In January 2013 I replaced the compressor seal as opposed to buying a new compressor. I had read that seal replacement does not last long but since the seals are relatively inexpensive I thought I'd give it a try anyway. I cannot say whether the method I used in the replacement contributed to my success but it seemed logical to me at the time.

I removed the compressor from the car and installed the new seal according to directions. Then I attached the compressor to a heavy board along with an old washing machine motor with a fan belt connecting the two. I keep a lot of junk in my basement so I have pulleys to fit both. Then I ran the motor (after changing the compressor oil) for a couple of hours with no back pressure to lap in the seal. Following this I attached a small valve and gradually increased back pressure to the compressor. I ran it for another hour checking for leaks at the seal. It did not leak so it was reinstalled on the car. That was 3 years ago and I have not had to charge the system since. Whether lapping is the reason for my success or it was coincidental I'll never know but it seemed like it couldn't hurt. Furthermore it gave me some indication whether my seal change was successful.

 

The original hoses can handle 134 just fine. But they are very old and likely will leak at the fittings.

If you check the DIY thread I wrote up a pretty good procedure for replacing the hoses. You will need to remove the passenger fuel tank and the panels up front as well. Use a in-line splice for AC hoses to tie the new/old together, one person pushes, the other pulls. My brother and I were able to get the new ones installed in literally 5-minutes.

Also, as Lawrence pointed out, the new/rebuilt York compressors do not seem to last too long or leak again. Not sure why this happens but everyone I've talked to that did the rebuild option said they just leaked a few years later.

The York compressor is a standard truck part and you can likely find a new replacement (might have to repaint silver) and swap out the clutch.

The Sanden conversion is also a good set up. Retro-Air has a complete conversion system but it's for the 308 and the condenser will not fit a 328 (I think). The Sanden compressor and brackets will work in your car but the condenser coil will not. http://www.retroair.com/ferrariairconditioning.html

Finally, EU 328's came with a Sankyo (?) compressor which is the exact same as the Sanden (I think Sanden bought them out so it's the same rotary unit vs the piston unit in the York). I looked into buying all the brackets/pieces to mount the Sanden the way Ferrari set it up (much more elegant than the adapter plate you need to do the Sanden/York conversion) but it was like $600 in parts...and that was 10-years ago. Likely a lot more now. Look at the ricambi parts diagrams and you'll see it there.

Also, seller on e-bay has an EU Sankyo compressor/parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/121822767055?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Read the DIY threads. Lots of good info.

 

You need to swap to a barrier style hose. Otherwise you will find the 134 will eventually permeated out through the older hose material and seals.

It happened to me on 3 cars, one being the 308.

If you are going to do this, you may as well do it correctly. Many things need to be taken into consideration swapping refrigerant from R12. If you simply vacuum and recharge with 134, you will not be gaining a single improvement. Doing it this way is a serious step back if what you are trying to achieve is even slightly less efficiency as you had before. In other words, don't do that. It is just a waste of your time. It just doesn't work that way.

 

The other thing you really need is a condenser with more surface area if you are moving away from 134. Again, Retro Air seems to have this figured out as well.

With 134 compatible hoses, rotary compressor and a better condenser up front you will be set, especially in Canada. You can piecemeal the parts or go straight to Retro Air for one stop shopping.

 

Three things I can think of, in addition to comments:
1. upgrade hoses (old=bad);
2. note that condenser is in front of the RH wheel vice in front of radiator; it has its own fan;
3. since compressor removed, have your timing belts checked/replaced.

 

And most of the fiddly bits, expansion valve, drier, pressure switch are common parts that any flaps should have or can order. Dead cheap.

 

A working a/c system puts a significant load on the electrical system, namely the old and inherently weak fusebox (328, Mondial and TR). So make sure yours is up to speed before (or during) the restore.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/213035-avoiding-fusebox-china-syndrome-meltdown-pre-emptive-fix.html#post138010471

There are several options available but I went with the one from Dave for my 3.2. Mondial. His upgraded fusebox fixed so many other things as well (reliability, drivability to name a few).

 

My 89 328 has the Sanden compressor and everything is completely stock without any modification. It has had a simple replacement of R12 with R134a.

It does not leak, and works fine. Fact is, information pertaining to the weakness in the 308 A/C system does not always apply to the 328 which has a different system. Also hoses in later cars are likely to have an improved barrier.

The only issue with the 328 system is the rather puny blower for the A/C air and small air outlets.

The Sanden is not a rotary compressor BTW, its still a piston compressor. They do make rotary compressors but the SD507 is not one.