F1 Reverse Level Fix in Detail

I just completed this repair on my '98 355. Since mine seemed to involve every possible "worst case scenario" and info I was able to find on tackling these issues was sparse, I decided to create a detailed write up with pics for anyone else tackling this.

Parts:
First, you'll need the new F1 "Fork" from Ricambi: Part #RL01 360F1 Reverse Gear Lever
*** You *may* also need a new 3mm x 40mm screw, but wait until you've got your unit apart to purchase one. I'll explain below.

Tools:
Small Philips screwdriver
Medium Philips screwdriver
Small flat-head screwdriver
*** You *may* need a razor blade cutting tool, small file, large file, vice and a Dremel with a cutting wheel. Again, wait until you have your unit apart. Explanation below.

1 - Start by removing the F1 control box from the console via the 4 large Philips screws. Take care not to slip the screwdriver!
2 - Remove the F1 control box from the console by pulling the front up and then forward so that the connector cable can clear at the rear.
3 - Disconnect the connector cable. This is done by pulling up on the tab at the center top of the white connector and then sliding the connector out.

 

Pics for steps 1-3
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4 - Once the F1 box is out and disconnected, flip it over and remove the black cover from the bottom of the unit. This is done by gently pulling the small locking tabs on each side. I found it easiest to start with the two on the end where the cable connection resides, then working my way around.

5 - This is where you may need a razor blade cutting tool and small file. Some people have screw in the center of the green PCB, some of us (like me) do not. Ignore the 3 black screws near the edges, the only one that is important is the one in the center. If you do not see it, then you'll need to cut a hole in the center of the PCB to get the screw underneath. Start by razor cutting the small hole in the center of the PCB just beneath the "y" in the word Germany. Work it with the blade and then small rounded file until it's large enough to get a screwdriver to the screw beneath.

6 - Unscrew the center screw. The silver portion will now separate from the black portion. Be careful of the small springs that hold the old Fork in place. They are moderately secure, but can pop out, so be diligent.
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7 - Once the silver portion is off you'll see the old fork. The small flat-head screw in the center is what needs to be removed next.

You'll also probably see pegs broken off the old fork and/or the small plastic grommets that wrap the pegs being broken/shredded.

 

Pics for step 7
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8 - Again, this is where you may need additional tools/steps...
Unfortunately for some of us, Ferrari decided to cement the small flat-head screw into the T-handle, which means you will be unable to just unscrew it. If yours comes out using just a screwdriver, consider yourself super lucky and skip the next 2 steps.

9 - If you're unable to remove the flat-head screw, you'll have to cut the split of the fork off. Mount the silver portion in a vice (after first wrapping the vice head in cloth to protect your parts). I found it easiest to clamp onto the T-handle. I then covered the exposed silver potion with more cloth to keep it from being covered in metal shavings during the cuttng.

10 - Using a Dremel with a cutting wheel, gently cut the fork free. You can also cut through the screw head, although I chose not to. Once the fork is removed, you can then use a pair of pliers to unscrew the cemented screw. Once the screw is free from the T-handle then you're now at the point where the lucky people found themselves.
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T-handle freed from the cemented fork
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Again, you may need additional steps and tools here.

If you had to cut away the fork, odds are you will have destroyed the existing flat-head screw. You will need to procure a replacement (3mm x 40mm Pan Head .5mm thread). I discovered they were harder to find than I would have expected. Local hardware stores (both big chains and even a bolt/nut specialist house) didn't have the proper 3mm x 40mm pan head screw.
I ended up ordering them on eBay. I could only get them in a 10-pack minimum, so if you need one, PM me as I have extras and will happily send one to my brethren if you cover the shipping.

Another issue, once you do find the proper screw, is that the head of it will more than likely be too large. I had to machine mine down. If you don't have easy access to a milling machine, I found that wrapping the threads in tape for protection, then inserting the screw into a drill and grinding it against a large file held in a vice did the trick.
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11 - If you had to machine a new screw, or if you were able to use your old one, just insert the new fork into the silver portion, place the T-handle on the end and insert the flat-head screw into it.
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The final step is to place the silver portion back on the black bottom and attach them with the center screw (either on the PCB, or through it, depending on whether or not you had to bore out an access hole).

One note... I found it best to keep the fork/handle depressed while re-attaching the silver/black portions. This is to keep the springs seated in their arms. Be careful and diligent when installing the fork not to bend the springs or let them partially stick out and bend. They should be pressed down into their recesses during the re-assembly.

Reverse the rest of the steps to attach the black bottom plate and connect/install the unit back in the car.

You're done!

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. I can't say I'll have an answer, but since my fix encountered basically every hiccup I've heard mentioned, I might have a good idea.

Enjoy, gents! Now, go drive your car!

 

Jeff -

This write-up is excellent! Great work here!

If you'd be willing to let us use this post and photos on the Ricambi America website, I'd be happy to issue a full refund for your purchase so it's basically "free". Shoot me a PM or post here. Thanks!

 

If you have a early F1 car like mine, the scree on the bottom of th printed curcuit board is not accessable. You will have to drill the small hole that is there to gain access to the screw that retains the upper section.

The later cars have this screw easily accessable.
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Yeah, thanks for your previous info on this, Johnny. Your threads are what led me to determine where the screw was and how to get to it to separate the silver and black sections.

I covered this in Step 5 above.

 

Oh damn i skimmed and thought yours was the latter style screw, I think the later cars have the screw on the outside of the pcb on the later cars like the 360s does.

Just wanted to make it clear there are some differences in these. Awesome write up yu beat me to it and mostly because my pictures sucked and I didnt want to take it back apart..

 

Nice wright up Jeff and thanks for adding to the diy thread. I wish i had this when i did mine.

 

Nice write up. Thanks for sharing.

 

Excellent write up.

 

What is a reverse level problem that would need a fix?

 

He means Lever, that 'level' confused me too until I read into the thread.

Great write up though!

 

Yeah, after all that careful work and then I realized I had a typo in the title, which is the *one* thing you can't go back and edit. DOH!

 

Daniel,

I got your PM. Thank you again, happy to help.

And again I'd like to publicly state what so many have in the past: A big thanks to everyone at Ricambi for being an invaluable resource and to their stellar customer service!

 

Great DIY post!

I haven't had this problem (yet) on my 98 F1 Berlinetta but I figure it's only a matter of time. Always wondered about that dainty little T-lever - it didn't seem very robust, so I always select reverse carefully. Now I'll know where to go for the fix.

 

AWESOME!!! Thanks for posting this...I've had a flappy lever for years (yes, sounds like a personal problem but 'I guarantee there's no problem!') It still works so always gets moved down the to-do list...but with your instruction, there's no more excuses to not just fix it.

Nice work -

 

Jeff,

Really sharp pictures and great write up and explanations. Gives me the confidence to tackle some other jobs I have put off.

 

Hey Guys

I am in the process of changing out the reverse lever above... I would also like to change out the LEDs in the circuit board that is in the bottom part of the F1 reverse housing... I am unable to get the circuit board out of the black housing (removed the 3 screws on the back, and tried to pull out the board after pushing out the clips, but it doesnt want to budge).. Has anyone removed the board to access the LED/switch mechanism? Any tips??


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