LM002 RHD Rolling restoration.. will be updated regularly

Next, we were missing a connection between the cable and the throttle rod. It was connected with a looped wire and weird stuff.

Also we're missing one of the key components under the hood - the top mount for the air pump. I've bent a prototype piece, we'll see how it goes when I will put the intake box back.

After I mocked up the carbs with fuel line and throttle rod, it turned out that it is virtually impossible to adjust the nuts in the rear, i.e. properly tune the carbs. So I decided to run a temporary setup under the hood, during tune up, without the intake box and with carb spacers (for the proper height on the studs). Now the carbs are accessible. I've spent almost 3 days bouncing around the Webers before I got them running properly, I can comment on that too, if someone is interested.

Changed all the fluids to synthetic ones. I've put 10W-40 Agip Turbo Diesel engine oil in for cleaning purpose. Gonna change the engine oil after tune up and few test days, just want to filter the oil as much as possible before pouring Agip 10W-60 on a long term.


The fun part was that there very various odd things inside. Such as a "cool" keyless sensor ignition button! It was simply glued on!

Where would I get an OE ignition lock for LM002?? Luckily, the solution appeared by itself. I was buying some NOS LM lights in the US from a private owner and he said that when he had an LM002, he had found some info that some old Fiat ignition lock would fit. And so he had ordered it, been waiting for a long time and finally it had shipped. The fun part is what was written on it: MADE IN RUSSIA. And guess what? Old VAZ 2101 (An old Lada which is quite similar to Fiat 124) ignition lock is a direct fit in a LM002 steering column!
It also turned out that the window rubber seals are also direct fit from Fiat 124 / VAZ 2101. So basically, I got an infinite supply of ignition locks, window rubber seals and wiring connectors here!

It was really really odd that ALL the wires from the sensor button control module were connected to the wiring! Too hard for me to understand what's going on, so I got a fellow car electric specialist to solve it and connect the new igniton lock. Just need to make better looking keys for the ignition.

Already made a proper ignition lock cover and got it leather wrapped.
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Re-reading the whole thread.

BTW, recently I noticed that Tesla Model S also uses DOT 3 brake fluid. Seriously!
I have no idea, but that got me thinking.


Regarding speedo not working:

I've noticed a Porsche parts logo (P in a triangle) on the speedo. It turned out the unit is quite similar to Porsche 930/964. They've got a sophisticated pulse calibration converter unit in between the gearbox and the speedo itself. I guess, things are a little different on the Lambo, but should be about the same - the sender unit is probably united with the impulse converter in a single part, right there on the transfer case.

I've also find a video with a simple idea to check if the actual speedo is working properly.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOT2JQPBliE[/ame]

That is waaay simpler than a proper German way:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRZmqhVUVMc[/ame]
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Actually there is an engine number stamp in the front of the DD LM engine. On the oil filler casting, and probably everywhere else. There are many stamps on the parts.

Wow, haha, I'm surprised. These are actually made in Russia...
Got the same stuff on our LM.

 

Ignition lock cover blueprint, if someone would ever need it. They are in DXF format.
Bottom part (2 mm thick)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3Fy8EvvBD4kVU5NajFEOF9Hak0/view?usp=sharing
Top part (1 mm thick)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3Fy8EvvBD4kTDlPdmZRMHhYNFU/view?usp=sharing
(the only thing is that I missed the bolt holes just a bit - the holes should be about 2.5 mm more to the right, but you can easily fix it with a drill bit, still won't be seen, as you'd probably want to wrap it in leather)

They can be CNC cut from sheet aluminum or glass-fiber laminate (that's what I used, actually) and then glued together. Or you can CNC cut it in one piece, the guy with CNC just didn't have a sheet thick enough for a single piece. The bolts that bolt the cover are really odd. I've bought a bunch of small bolts and some of these worked, so I can't recall the exact size. But it's like 2.9 mm with fine thread.

Taffy, I know you asked for it long time ago in the thread, and I'm probably late, haha.

 

Which is NLA on the A1 Electric website...


Recently, I got to the fuel pumps in the rear.
I expected those to be Facet/Bendix interrupter type or something. But these are Carter 7K078 (?) with a pre-filter. Things look as if nobody changed the filters ever, still original filters.
Just want to figure out why the car revs good only to 4000 RPM (no WOT actually, on half-throttle). "Gotta take the power back" as in Rage Against The Machine.
I suspect ignition advance and fuel related things. Malpassi Filter Kings should arrive soon.

 

I just repaired it. It works for now. All windows work. The rear left one is just not as fast as the others, the only case.
I've googled a lot and these would probably also fit from a Rover SD1 (just like the switches for turnlights and windshield wipers), some replacements should be available in the UK, I think. Same power window motors were used on TVRs.

 

The fuel system is quite different on carb and FI LMs.

The EFI LMs have normal EFI fuel system layout.
The carbed LMs have 2 x low pressure Carter with pre-filters, then 2 x Malpassi Filter King fuel pressure regulators (in parallel) with in-built filters under the hood, then it goes to carbs and back to the return line. I've never seens a setup like this, it has nothing common with a Countach too (no return fuel line there).

I think the pumps are okay, although its not a problem to buy new ones, they are like $40-60 each.
I'll change the pre-filters before pumps and wait for the Filter Kings to arrive for another tuning session.
Also I might rebuilt the distributor more thoroughly, to clean all the old lube possible (cause it's more like glue now) and replace it with fresh one. Might be ignition advance case.

Also I'm a little unsure about ignition setting.
It's likely that the car was first sold to France, so no carb setting decals or plates. I've seen both 12 deg and 8 deg at idle for carbed LM002.
So I'm a little not sure.

Changing ignition advance is not that simple on 6 webers, as the RPMs would go high and you'll need to synchronise them again. The case is whether it would run better on higher RPM or not. It does revs high that 4000 RPM on half-throttle, but it doesn't "want" to do that. While it should!
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Taffy, another prob would be that I can't turn 4WD on, as my left hub doesn't want to rotate much and get engaged. My right hub engages fully, while the left one rotates less than half of the right. Just curious if someone knows what might be the case.

Thanks,
Alex.

 

BTW, it has been confirmed that Pirelli Scorpions with sand lip are available new, however, the batches are very limited. Die-hard fans of sandlips will have to wait about 3 years for another batch to get in production.

The front diff seems to be fine.

Wait, why not 4x4 on asphalt? I mean, a locked 4x4 on asphalt is really bad, but what's about normal 4x4?

 

The transfer case should have 3 settings: 4x4, 4x4 locked and 4x2.
It's strange if you don't have unlocked 4x4.


There are Pirelli Scorpions with sand lip available even now, those are 2 years old. They produce them once in 5 years.
I know only dealer wholesale prices, those are more than acceptable (from my opinion), less than 2000 euro for 1 tire. I'll need to know the retail prices.

 

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/089/Large/089_017.gif

The part 27 is called differential, nevertheless.

Well, I've been running 4WD on the road on a '86 Chevy K35 (454, reg cab), I don't know about clutch there, but that's GM foolproof quality maybe. 4WD can help you drive fast in wet or cold conditions, that's why I'm interested.

Still, I think Lamborghini L900 9.0L V12 would be a better engine for LM002 than a Countach-derived 5.2 V12. It's a little underpowered for the car.

 

Duh, yours is pretty close!
Don't think it would change dramatically.

Oh crap...
I'm not a fan of tuned interiors on good cars, however, Horacio Pagani would probably like it, lol.

That's the guy from Osmk / Krasnoyarsk or somewhere close (western-/mid-siberia).

This car was originally from Armavir, featured in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uW4zIR2q5T0

It's rumored that the car was close to death, so it was sold pretty cheap.
And then the new owner replaced all the parts with whatever that fits and works and decided to add some bling with black alcantara with red stitching.

The good thing is that he donated some original parts to the guy who's doing a restoration of one of the latest LM002s ever made (#298). That car had some problems with papers and so it was donated to filmmakers, who decided to blow up such a rare car in a crappy criminal movie sequel.

Be prepaired to see that you can't unsee.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5VcWryzLI[/ame]
Now, being prepaired, proceed to the actual movie. The scene is in the beginning.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5VcWryzLI[/ame]

Fun facts:
- yes, the car somewhat remained
- the engine was taken out before the car was blown and saved
- the frame was cut in many many places so the car would actually bend or something, because it's too stiff
- last autumn the remains were bought by a wealthy guy who owns another LM002 and a restoration workshop (for his own cars), so he's willing and he can restore it, although it would be not easy, most of the parts will have to be re-manufactured, most importantly - the frame itself
- all the russian LM002 owners are gathering and donating parts for this restoration, because nobody can handle the death of such a rare car in such worthless movie

 

One more.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RclBtZVYRZM[/ame]

Guess, LM002 doesn't want to fly at all.