Exhaust manifolds known to be problamatic?

I did a bunch of research on this 2 years ago, when I had a rear header problem - I documented it in this thread - http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/461379-308qv-manifold-leak-cracked-header.html

Rear headers have been known to have problems with cracks developing, as I experienced and as examination showed had happened at least 4 prior times on that original header; but that seems to be much more rare on the front header.

The front header is reputedly a bear to get out - with the engine in place, the right side fuel tank must be removed, and even then some found that the engine needed to be unbolted from the mounts and jacked up an inch to get the necessary clearance for finagling the header out.

I replaced the rear header in Oct 2014, but the matching new front header is still pretty garage art - unless my car develops a front header problem, I will wait until some other item requires me to get that fuel tank out before I tackle the header replacement.

 

I have very lightly used rear US exhaust manifold I would be willing to sell. I think it's the same part # for 308 and 328's.
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I recently removed the front bank header without raising or removing the engine.*

Every step of the way is a real b***h. The passenger gas tank needs to come out (the tough part is finagling the the vent hose nipples at the top past the AC lines; the fuel vapor hoses have to come off and are generally fossilized), the A/C needs to get out of the way, and the alternator has to come out (if you go this route, buy a 19mm "S" wrench to loosen the alternator mounting bracket from the engine block). Lastly, the exhaust sampler test tubes - if yours are still installed - have to be disconnected from the header pipe bungs (and are usually rusted on solid; try PB blaster). After that, you can do some delicate twisting acrobatics to maneuver it out through the passenger rear wheel well.

* My rear suspension also was off at the time. I think this would not affect the ability to get the header out through the wheel well, but can't promise.

 

308 QV and 328 are the same (US for US, Euro for Euro). 2 valve 308s have different shaped exhaust ports and use different manifolds than the 4V engines.

 

The easiest approach I found - again, mind you, my rear suspension was off - was GENTLY wrenching loose the sniffer tubes from the driver side wheel well (and the Cyl 8 one from the passenger side). Once the header is out, EASY to get the air injector rail disconnected from the driver side wheel well. Again, though, especially if you've had leaks and corrosion issues, use plenty of penetrating oil or you'll break the sniffer tubes.

One last tip. If you're pulling the headers, go buy a couple sets of squash balls. They're just the right size (and safely pliable) to plug the exhaust ports in the block so nothing gets in there while you're working.

 

Absolutely: Euro carbed cars and Injected two valves have round section tubes; Euro QVs and 328s have oval- shaped tubes (at the exhaust ports)
Rgds

 

The headers do crack at times. I have encountered 2 headers that cracked at the accumulator. They can be welded. Here is a spare rear header from a 2 valve car showing repair.
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I have to apologize, but after reading back I see you have a 328. I've got a 308, so bear in mind there may be some differences. Going from underneath, you've got frame rails, engine mounts, the header, starter and the fuel tank cross-over pipe blocking easy access. Conversely, pulling the fuel tanks can be labor intensive, but going from the side makes the job relatively quick.

 

Cracks hell....I have had one blow the *&(^& UP and light the engine compartment on fire!!!

It's a good idea to pay attention during a "single bank firing" episode, as you are charging up the entire header and muffler with unspent gasoliine.

When oit reaches contact with the other side, in the cross flow OEM muffler, or hits a glowing cat, and severe explosion may occur!!

If you think you have a leak, pull it, strip the North American asbestos packing (in accourdance with EPA regs....LOL!) and weld up or Jet Hot the whole thing.

Quicksilver makes both sides, and better then Ferrari ever did!

You can access the front side by dropping the motor mount bolts and gently jacking the engine, and it comes out the RH side, if you pull the gas tank out of the way, and remove the wheel.

 

RH tank and the cross connect pipe has to come out.

Of course, if it's been blown apart at the Y collector, it's a little easier....LOL!

 

Nice enough.

Note the sampling bungs you see here, are for tuning...

They are NOT the air injection nozzles, which actually screw into the head reaching the exhaust runners in that casting.

That's where the nozzle plugs go.

 

See my notes......put the frame rails on jack stands, and lift the engine a LITTLE bit on a jack to get space.

I have seen them plugged by putting a steel ball bearing in the flare nut fitting, and leaving the injector in the port.

It may well be deformed from heat, and hard to get out.

 

Still recovering from the Ducati crash....


But, I will talk you thru it!!!

 

There is no "try", there is only "do"........

 

Your brass plugs have a short cylinder protrusion??

From Verrell, or smg2??

 

Broke nose, and ripped my lips loose......they sewed them back.......Thank goodness Rossi crashed, too!!