Carb removal for engine pull?

Mike, what is the reason for engine pull? This will help answer your question.

 

Pretty sure I left them on. This is a GT4. Can't see from your profile what model you have. The wood is necessary! There are good descriptions on FC how to put the sling and how to lift the engine. Do not have a link myself but a Quick search will give you information.
Peter

 

Sorry, can't add picture for some reason.
Peter

 

No need to remove
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I removed the carbs before I pulled my engine, but I don't think it was necessary (look at the picture). I'm planning on installing the carbs before I put the engine back in. There are several good threads on GT4 engine removal and they were extremely helpful. If you're interested, here's mine: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/458208-observations-gt4-engine-pull.html

Make sure you have a long-reach crane, position the straps as close to the engine as possible (just clearing the carbs) because you have to lift it pretty high. And read up on the front exhaust manifold removal in mid-lift. It also helps to have a couple of young, strong FAA A&P mechanics to help out.
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Only really the drain channel for the rear window that protrudes, the only bit that is a pain is the clutch release mech as this sticks out and part way through the lift engine has to be jiggled to clear. Took about 20 mins start to finish.

 

Be sure to invite a local f-chatter over for help and moral support.

One who's conveniently close by. And is willing to bring beer.

 

This wooden frame IS a good idea. Your Engine is heavy, if it just touch the rear window it will break. If it touch the body you might get a difficult dent to handle.

Peter
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The carbs DO NOT need to come off and you will save a ton of time removing and installing them when the engine is out of the car. Removing the carbs with the engine installed is very time consuming compared to when the engine is out.

 

The 'socket' that fits over the ball has a thin cotter pin on the back that needs to be removed. Once the pin is out a flat headed screwdriver is required to turn back a screw assembly that essentially adjusts the play in the socket/ball assembly. Just turn the screw back until the ball is free. Sounds much more complicated than it actually is as the 'socket' assembly is merely made up of 2 pieces plus the cotter pin. Good luck.

 

That's OK. It's been a long time since anybody called me "glorious." I guess it's just Apple getting back to me for all the bad stuff I've said about them over the last 30 years.

I might suggest that with the engine out you might want to consider doing the heads (replace sodium exhaust valves, valve job, seals, etc.). A couple of $grand's worth of insurance.

 

I recently helped a friend with this and can say that, with the engine out of the car, the cost for new valves, head gaskets, valve seals, intake and exhaust gaskets, exhaust guides (that were found to be worn), new valve springs & machining was just a hair under $3K CDN.

So if you are wondering all things being equal how much more does it cost to do the valves, there is your answer. Changing the intake valves, valve guides, valve seats, etc. would all be extra and is not needed unless these pieces are found to be out of spec by your engine shop.

Lastly if you do pull the heads be sure to re-check the valve clearances AFTER you torque the heads down. They can move a little and a double check after the heads go back on will often reveal a valve or two out of adjustment.

If it were my engine and it was out of the car I would do the valves but strongly resist the urge to change more parts just because you are at it. If it is in spec and is working well leave it alone. These cars are all to often over serviced with perfectly good parts with little wear being replaced.

 

If the engine was re-built chances are that the valves were replaced. In most instances stainless steel valves are used so you may be able to determine if the valves are stainless with a magnet. Once the engine is out and the cams are out (part of your service anyways), remove the cam buckets and stick a magnet to the tip of the valve. If it does not stick then they are stainless, if it sticks you 'may' still have sodium valves. Either way it is a super easy check and costs nothing.

 

I have cam locks!

 

Sodium valves have been discussed to death and there are hundreds if not thousands of posts on the subject over the years so I won't go down that road here. What I will say is that history has shown sodium valves to break at all engine speeds including idle so it has nothing to do with avoiding high revs or babying. Think of it as a calculated risk as there are tons of engines out there with original valves running great.

I will say that before you remove the engine you may want to do a compression and leak down test (the leak down can be done with the engine out). Borrow the tools if you don't have them but it is a fast way to document the health of your engine or catch a potential catastrophic failure before it happens.

Good luck with the pull and be sure to take lots of photos and document your adventures here.