308 Door Jam Switch

I have a small number of NOS switches. PM me if you are interested.

 

As I recall, they are the door jamb switch for a Porsche 356
Stoddard # 644.615.601.00 but contact them as I believe I read the pic isn't right for the part F#.

I can't seem to find the old post which had them. I know I bought a few and they were a direct drop-in replacement.

 

The Stoddard switch is slightly different and has a black plunger not white like the Ferrari one. Unfortunately exact to original is very hard to find and rather expensive when you do. Such is the curse of wanting exact to original.

 

You may want to do a search here as there is a stack of info on how to go about repairing these. Also, a lot on fixing the root cause as to why these bugger up (cease to function, break, etc.)... Been there, done that, managed to fix, took copious photos, etc.

Hopefully all you need to know. Let me know if you want further input.

Best,

John.

 

See if the thread helps. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/515748-308-gts-door-light-issues.html

 

All,

I finally got around to working on the passenger side (for stereo installation) and, sure enough, the light switch was similarly buggered (in functionality) as had been the one on the driver's side.

So...

1. Partially remove the switch using finger nail to start, followed by small screw driver blade with masking tape to protect finish. Do not pull this fully out!
2. Ease the switch out just enough to see the connection. Use needle nose pliers to gasp the tab on the switch and remove the connector (i.e., such that the tab is not stressed). Put the switch aside (clean/lubricate and modify per other thread on this topic if you so desire).
3. Remove the black face plate that the switch fitted into
4. Pull the wires (there are two that are joined at the connector) gently out and straighten them if they are curled up or have a kink. Spray them with Silicone lubricant and spray the entire inside of the rubber tunnel from which they protrude.
5. Work the wires in and out of the rubber tunnel (applying more Silicone) until they move freely in and out with little resistance, i.e., they do not bind on the rubber.
6. Replace the black face plate such that the wires with connector protrudes from the hole where the switch goes
7. Carefully press the connector onto the tab using needle nosed pliers
8. Push switch back into place

This is just my strong recommendation for anyone that has this configuration as these switches are damn nigh impossible to find and I and convinced that the resistance to movement that the wires have is responsible for their destruction.

 

I also have this problem. Sounds like lots of folks do. Will try some surgery one of these days.

 

Rifledriver has posted much the same in another thread.

Downsize the wire inside the switch, to give it flexibility, against the plunger travel....

 

...I looked into doing that but even with a finer wire there was still resistance. In point of fact the second switch on the driver's side door (US Model) already had a finer wire and was exhibiting the same problem to some extent. Granted, not as much, but still...

 

When either or both doors are open, both red door lights should come on (as should the dome light, if the switch there is in the appropriate position).

The fact that when the passenger door is open and the two red door lights fail to illuminate (and do when the driver's door is open) is indicative of an issue on the passenger's side.

My approach would be to do the following:

Gently ease the door switch on the passenger side out, just enough to expose the connector. Ground this (at the connector) and see if the red lights come on. If so, then it's a problem relating to the function of the switch, if not, then you need to trace the fault further upstream...

If grounding the connector turns the red lights on, then have a good look at the switch itself. If it seems to work OK when manually fiddling with it (e.g., by gently pushing/pulling/rotating the central white nylon actuating button in, out, and 'round), then it is likely that the wires are restricting movement: I.e., when the door is closed, the wires take a 'set' such that when the door is opened, they restrict the movement needed to make the connection in the switch.

My $0.02 is that even if you replace the heavy wires with something more flexible, even they can bind and cause the switch not to work. This is why I think that Silicone lube is your friend here...

Please keep us posted on how you get on.

 

I had to fuss with this as well... That darn vinyl sheath they put over the wire clusters gets so hard it won't bend without breaking... On my car, it fractured where it had to bend to open and close the door forcing the wires into the hinge slicing a couple and shorting out the door locks and mirrors. It literally melted the passenger door lock The light switch was also a problem so I stripped back as much of the hard covering that I could and gave the wires enough slack to move around. That helped a lot. I spliced the wires together and got all the accessories working again. I had to replaced the door lock. Same problem on the '86 911 so it is just an age/materials of the day issue. I'm sure it was just fine when it was new, but polymer cross-bridging has increased its hardness. I see it all over the car and I suspect it is to blame for some of the other electrical gremlins I experience.

Franny