458 Emissions Rejection

Not sure how many miles, also what temp it has to reach. But the best way would be to plug an OBD2 scan tool into the diagnostic port, it will give you the readiness status. You would drive it until it shows ready, then take it for emissions test

 

If some of the car's emission's monitors are not ready the only
plausible cause is that the stock catalysts or some other
exhaust components have been altered with aftermarket ones.

Another possible cause is that you are using more than 93aki octane fuel,
unless the obd is glitchy which is unlikely.

Unfortunately to pass emissions 9 of the 10 monitors have to
be ready on the car's obd and if the exhaust components are not
stock, esp. the catalysts, the emissions monitors will not show
ready status.

I would first assure myself that you have all the stock exhaust
components on the car, including stock catalysts, and that your 02
sensors are all working properly.

If that is not the case you need to put back the stock cats and have
working 02 sensors, then have your dealer perform a drive cycle to get
the monitors ready and then pass emissions.

If you have race or high flow catalysts on the car your exhaust monitors
will not throw ready status and you will either have to reinstall all stock
exhaust parts and perform a drive cycle to pass emissions, or find other solutions.

best

 

My 2015 458 had several not ready codes. Here is the drive cycle that Ferrari sent me.

1.With the engine cold start the car and let idle for 4 minutes.

2.Drive normal in 3rd or 4th gear @ 2000-2500 rpm.

3.Drive at constant speed for 5km @ 2500 rpm.

4.Slow down in 4th gear from 4500 rpm to 2000 rpm.

5.Stop for 5 minutes at idle then turn the key to OFF.

6.Restart and drive normally for 10 minutes.

7. Check readiness codes.

Please let us know if this works for you. I still show one not ready code.

 

These are good instructions, I'll build upon them with a few more details that work for me:

1. Make sure your car has at least 1/2 tank if fuel. Any lower and some systems may not set. It does not need to be completely full... 1/2 tank to 3/4 tank is ideal.
2. Start with a completely cold engine ( as in first start up of the day ) or at least several hours cooled ( 3h + )
3. Start the car and let idle without touching the gas pedal for 4 minutes
4. Drive car in higher gear at a constant speed keeping the RPM's under 2500. Keeping the car at a constant speed is very important. I usually drive to the highway ( keeping the RPMs under 2500 ) and put it in the top gear and cruise... not changing gears or speed for approx. 10 miles ( will update Monday )
5. Immediately after step #4 , find a long stretch of roadway , with no traffic, and perform a total of 6 ( in a row ) , 2,000 to 6,000 RPM runs , keeping the transmission in 1st gear ( Do NOT upshift ) when you get to 6,000 RPM, allow the engine to run itself back down to 2,000 RPM without using your brakes.... you are heating up the Cats in this step. Be sure to use your hazards during this step, so though around you do not think you are trying to race them...LOL
6. Drive normally to somewhere you can let the car idle for 5 minutes
7. Turn the car off and let it sit for a minimum of 15 minutes.
8. Start the car and drive normally for 20 minutes. I usually drive on city streets for 10 minutes and then 10 minutes on the highway.

This is very close, I will post exact steps on Monday, when I get back in the office.

I perform no less than 2 " readiness code drive cycles " a day... It works 99% of the time only time it doesn't is if something is actually wrong ( or non-OEM as noted above )

I would suggest pre-driving a route that will allow you to do all the items above without interruption , as the sync of the steps above is important to follow as close as possible. We're lucky to have two highways close to our location. I drive the exact same route every time I do them. But it took some time to find the perfect route.. lol


Losing readiness codes is pretty common when a Ferrari is not driven on a regular basis or if a battery has gone dead after sitting.

OP , PM me your e-mail address and I will send you the printed directions Monday.

S

 

Once again Steve your level of detail is astounding. Thank you for sharing.

Michael

 

My 458 spider had the same happen, I took one for the team and put 350 miles on it over the course of a week and voila it passed the following attempt.

 

By chance is that the secondary air readiness code? Is the procedure given to you TSB # 20? I am able to clear all of my readiness codes with that procedure.

 

Not so much as heating the cats, but more importantly, the engine is pulling a strong vacuum on the evaporative system. I found that following the step of slowing from 4500 RPM to 2000 RPM in fourth gear may not be adequate. I made a high-speed run to almost 160 MPH and let the engine slow the vehicle from approximately 7000 RPM to 3500 RPM in sixth gear without clutching. This causes the engine to pull more vacuum on the evaporative system, than the lower speed slowdown. I am not certain if clearing the secondary air readiness code was a result of slowing the car during normal driving or by slowing the car from the high-speed pass. It seems plausible the success of the purge function is dependent on how strong of a vacuum is being pulled on the evaporative system.

 

Not entirely correct. I have aftermarket headers and all of my readiness codes are clear.
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Nice readout!

You are correct, aftermarket headers usually do not affect exhaust
monitor codes; aftermarket cats or straight pipes will.

 

As promised , please see attached Tech Tip related to modern ( F430 and newer ) Ferrari
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and for the "older" cars with SD2 or SD3 :
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I'm pretty sure that no where in the drive cycle is a " vacuum test ", so the strength of the vacuum is rrelevant. The evap portion of the test is cycling throughout the entire drive cycle both stages I and II. Even at cold start up at idle.

Where-as when you put the engine under load under acceleration to the higher RPM , you are dumping fuel into the system, heating the cats. Then on deceleration the o2 sensors are reading just how clean the exhaust is.

I'm not sure that any of my clients would want me doing 160mph runs in their car on city streets. To each is own and if your process works, more power to you.

I am simply offering what process works for me.

S

 

Thank you sir,

S

 

Updated with small points I missed over the weekend:

1. Make sure your car has at least 1/2 tank if fuel. Any lower and some systems may not set. It does not need to be completely full... 1/2 tank to 3/4 tank is ideal.

2. Start with a completely cold engine ( as in first start up of the day ) or at least several hours cooled ( 3h + )

3. Start the car and let idle without touching the gas pedal for 4 minutes

4. Drive car in higher gear at a constant speed keeping the RPM's under 2500. Keeping the car at a constant speed is very important. I usually drive to the highway ( keeping the RPMs under 2500 ) and put it in the top gear and cruise... not changing gears or speed for approx. 4 miles

5. Immediately after step #4 , find a long stretch of roadway , with no traffic, and perform a total of 6 ( in a row ) , 2,000 to 6,000 RPM runs , keeping the transmission in 1st gear ( Do NOT upshift ) when you get to 6,000 RPM, allow the engine to run itself back down to 2,000 RPM without using your brakes.... you are heating up the Cats in this step. Be sure to use your hazards during this step, so those around you do not think you are trying to race them...LOL

6. Drive normally to somewhere close you can let the car idle for 5 minutes

7. Turn the car off and let it sit for a minimum of 15 minutes.

8. Start the car and drive normally for 20 minutes, again without sudden acceleration or frequent gear changes, for a total of 20 minutes. I usually drive on city streets for 10 minutes and then 10 minutes on the highway.


I would suggest pre-driving a route that will allow you to do all the items above without interruption , as the sync of the steps above is important to follow as close as possible. We're lucky to have two highways close to our location. I drive the exact same route every time I do them. But it took some time to find the perfect route.. lol

Losing readiness codes is pretty common when a Ferrari is not driven on a regular basis or if a battery has gone dead after sitting.


s

 

This driving cycle (I found it last year on FChat, but I don't recall the origin) mentions which tests are checked at each of the prescribed steps. Several times "canister purge" is mentioned, which is why I drew the conclusion that vacuum comes into play, or else how else is the canister purged?

Is the tacit inference that a clean O2 sensor reading implies the secondary air readiness condition is okay? Those are two mutually exclusive parameters, no?
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I cannot comment on the F-Chat drive cycle you attached, I am only in a position to comment on the " offical " drive cycle Ferrari provides and the interpretation I have listed above to achieve the desired results.

I will try and dig deeper to find what is actually checked at each stage of the drive cycle and post back when I find it.

Your conclusions seem reasonable with the information you are working with.

S

 

+1

 

Followed this exactly in my 2015 458 and it worked perfect th first time. Thanks for the suggestion

 

I know this is an old thread, but the information has been really useful. I have two more years before I need to do emissions testing on my 2014 458 Spider (here in California it is every other year after six years), but I had problems with my wife's Maserati Gran Turismo last year failing the secondary air system test after we had replaced the battery. Our local Ferrari/Maserati service people showed us a pretty similar checklist that they used to get the secondary air system test passed, but the main issue seemed to be having enough cold air at startup. The service people had fans setup around the car with the hood open since the weather here had been pretty warm.

I bought an inexpensive OBDII scanner (BlueDriver Bluetooth Professional OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone, iPad & Android) and check all of my cars periodically and keep them all on battery tenders (either CTEK 7002 or CTEK 4.3s). I am hoping to avoid problems in the future.

 

Never had any notice of these problems over here in Europe ...

 

Just drive your car?

 

The process seems to be the same regardless of car model. I posted a similar procedure in the 360 section, along with a tech bulletin found by another FChat member. There are several keys to this, including the need to start with truly cold engine. In some parts of the country, it can be a challenge to find sufficiently cold air during many parts of the year.


Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

Having trouble. Been talking with Steve at Boardwalk and followed his instructions above, but can't get it to work. I'm wondering if the Novitec/Capristo system the previous owner did for the exhaust is affecting it. All I know is that it's exhaust only and it's a combination of Novitec and Capristo. Does anyone know more about it and whether it would affect the 3 sensors from registering?

Fuel Sys
Catalyst
Evap System