EXCELLENT!! Are yours the ANT+ FE-C ones too? Do you also find that the rollers report lower watts than a normal trainer ride or road ride? More importantly, can you share what kinds of training routine your using? I'm running TrainerRoad stuff now, and having to dial-back the effort levels compared to my normal Tacx training rides. Do you use the Elite software with their training videos? Thoughts?
I check my tires before every ride, but they probably only need actual "touching up" with pressure perhaps once a week. Some tubes are more porous than others -- can't really explain why.
Butyl tubes vs latex tubes. Then after that, it comes a question of how much is in the rubber composite of the tubes.
The e motion rollers have a flywheel & magnet. It also has a remote that controls the four resistance positions. I have only started using a power meter that past couple of weeks and have been at my cottage. The rollers are at my house. I'll report after I've tested them out. I have been creating my own routines on a Garmin 1000. All based on heart rate zones and time. I can only stay on the rollers for an hour and a half. When I first started on them half an hour was my limit. You will need to adjust you power zones down in order to account for the stability work your doing on the rollers.
I hopped on the rollers for a minute at the end of a training session today on the magnetic stationary trainer. In the same gear, 150 watts on the stationary trainer was more than 250 watts on the rollers before a shut it down. As far as training routines go, according to the power meter all my trading has been anarobic. Even my long road rides have been short bursts of speed up hills and cruzing down them. I am starting over.....
Oh. So you unscrew it and push it in? I'll try that...Thanks. Btw, had my first flat tire yesterday. The rim strip was apparently off center and my tube popped. Luckily I was about 20 ft from my driveway after a 12 mile ride
Birds of a feather! Tonight, I had a blowout (literally) 25 miles into my Tuesday night ride with some friends. BANG! like a gunshot, then an immediate wobble in the rear. Luckily, I wasn't cornering or going terribly fast. Fixed it -- or so I thought -- in a few minutes and then continued on for around 1/8 mile. The ride sure was bumpy for that 1/8 mile. Turns out, the tire itself was cut and the newly installed tube was pushing itself through the slit. Stopped (again), manually deflated, and jammed a $1 bill between the tire and tube. Reinflated and limped back to my car. The ride quality was horrible, and rather than risk another flat and further damage/frustration, I rode the about 10 miles out of the saddle with my weight probably 70% forward. It sucked. Learn how to do emergency roadside repairs by practicing at home, and you'll almost always find a way back home, under your own power.
If this happens again and you need to make a road side repair with the last tube you have, use a GU packet to like the inside of the tire. It is strong enough to keep the tube from bulging through. Also, a $1 bill folded will also do the trick, as you found out.
OMG! That is a much better idea because it would "slide" into the tire easier and not really clump like the dollar bill. Great tip! (I had an empty gel pack in my back pocket...) Dayum Ryan... I'm surprised you had this advice -- I figured you just had a support vehicle chasing you all the time, with some burley dude yanking a whole new whip off the roof in the event of a mechanical issue. I didn't know the "big boys" ever got their hands dirty The good news is that I got to blow another $100 this morning on new Conti GP4000sII
Popular myth . It's inevitable that when you log 25k miles a year on a bike, there's a lot of "been there, done that." One day I'll have to make a list of all of the out-of-the-ordinary things that happened along the way and maybe some tips that would be helpful.
Yes, loosen the valve and let some air out with your finger. If I don't do that it's almost impossible to let any air in. On an other note, just had some wheels built up (starting to learn how to do that myself) and bought some foldable tyres, but, there's absolutely no way to fit them to the rims. They're both 700c obviously but can't even put one side of the tyre in as the rims seem to big. Tyres were fine on other wheels. The only times I evwntually managed to get the tyre and tube in I sistematically pinched the tube in the process. Any suggestions? Tnx
Hold a tire in one hand and the wheel in the other. At six oclock, place the rim inside the tire. Place one hand holding the tire on the rim at nine o clock and the other hand at the three oclock position. Slowly work both hands up to the twelve oclock position, feeding the tire onto the rim. So, your almost there with one side of the tire beed on the rim. This is the important part. The rim has a channel in the center. Whilel keeping the tire on the rim with both hands, pinch the tire into the channel at the six oclock position. Keep your other hand at the twelve oclock position with a little pulling pressure hold tire tight to the wheel. At this point there should only be a few inches of the tire thats not on the rim. Take a couple of tire levers and work them remaining beed onto the rim. Repeat for the other side after feeding the inner tube into the tire. Hope this helps.
How's this for a sweet way to spend Saturday morning? My son (11-years old) is on a somewhat "modified" Pinarello Speedy... but I suspect he'll be moving up to a Bianchi Intenso this holiday season, if we can build it up properly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nope, some pretty expensive kendas I found a deal on. Not the best brand but I suspect it's the rims where the problem lies. The profile of the walls is really high and the central concave part is not shallow enough. Getting some new wheels made already. Speaking of which, I bought a wheel building tool and already laced a radial 32h wheel. Now need to do the rear which is more complicated for the crossed pattern. Spokes are about 200mm so not too long and really wanted to do a radial again but became convinced it won't be appropriate on rears. Will go for 2x crossed drive side and radial on the other. Anyone knows if it will be much more difficult than just radial to lace and true? And is crossed drive side preferable or it makes no difference which side is crossed? Tnx
Generally go crossed on any side that will have force applied, so always drive side at the rear, and if you're discs then both sides. I've never found it more difficult to true different patterns, but always have to go and double check 3x lacing (never tried 2x). I usually use the Sheldon Brown guide. Also make sure you have "parallel" spokes either side of the valve hole and the logos inline. First one has a practical benefit, the second is purely aesthetical. Enjoy building. I've found it can be quite relaxing at times. Edit to add: some hub manufacturers don't advise a radial build, so you may want to double check if your concerned about warranty etc.
Tnx, will give it a shot tomorrow, hoping I don't loose my head with it Btw I imagine putting the crossed side at the drive side helps with the torsional stress of the hub which could break in halves otherwise?
Back-to-back 100-milers this weekend! Saturday, we pulled a pace of 21.5 mph with a relatively flat 3'500 of climbing. It felt amazing. Today, we had a rider who cramped badly so our pace dropped to 19 mph average with 3'800 of climbing. As a total rookie in leading my team, I wasn't sure how to handle it... but ultimately decided to have the team fall off the pack and just carry our teammate the last 15 painful miles. Without that incident, I'm pretty confident we would have pulled a 20.x average today, so I'm a little sad -- but also think it was better for the team as a whole. I'm the guy in the middle of the picture on a black/red Pinarello. Two notes: 1) I need a smaller jersey. This was a Pactimo 'small', and I think I'll move down to a women's size next. I hate how it bunches up when I ride. 2) Our team bus kicks ass. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
