Gasket sealer for oil sump covers?

Why use any if its a new joint.

 

A couple of us were discussing this the other day with a tech from Maranello Concessionaires, the main UK official agent and they use CAF4 which is specified by Ferrari.

I have previously used Loctite 518 on there but with not 100% success. Maranellos use CAF4 where there is a gasket and 518 for direct metal-metal.

The factory didnt use anything originally and they leaked.

 

If u do decide to use something, try loctite flange sealant- i dont have the number but we occasionally use it on the diesel rebuilds. You dont want anything too strong or you will never get it off next time.
Use very little sealant or the excess will end up in the sump and then get deposited in the suction filter.

Avoid Hylomar as it goes off before you have chance to fit it.

 

Hondabond or Permatex is commonly used in automotive and motorcycle shops...

Get a tube of either Hondabond HT 08718-0004 or the Permatex Ultra Grey, which should cover almost everything with a gasket, and a can of Honda Ultra Flange 2 08718-0009 for gasketless oil pans.

A line of silk thread in the sealer around the perimeter on gasketless pans will stop seeping

 

Silk thread? I've heard dental floss used on engine cases (motorcycle & VW/Porsche)

 

Another vote for Hondabond here. Great stuff.

 

Hondabond

 

Are Hondabond and Permatex Ultra Grey the exact same product? I've never come across a definitive answer. I've used both with success.

 

Leak proof?, A weld bead ��

 

Hylomar, nothing else. (I think Hondabond is just RTV. Maybe Hi-temp RTV but RTV non the less.) Hylomar is non-hardening, you put it on, it dries to a rubber like consistency then you assemble.

Hylomar

Hylomar was recommended to me by an old German guy that built racing engine for my Porsche. When I went to pick up the motor I was looking around his office; apparently he had a lot of success building Rolls Royce Merlin engines for racing aircraft in addition to auto racing. He said he will not use anything but Hylomar.

 

The trouble with the pans (motor and gear) is that the oil seeps out from around the studs. Several members in this site have chamfered the stud holes in the covers then put 6mm ID O'rings on all of the studs. I did that years ago on my 328 and I can attest that it does not leak. I chamfered so the o-ring went about half of its thickness down.

 

I don't think Hondabond dries hard but I never taken anything apart after I fixed with it!

 

I was a fan of Hylomar until they changed their formula. It is much too hard to apply evenly and also very hard to find

 

You are correct. It dries harder than silicone but it's still flexible. Great stuff.

 

30 years and I have been all over the map and around again. I used to love hondabond but ran out when honda was closed. I quickly sourced some hightack (like aviation no.3). Then i started using hightack again. What I liked is sealing is perfect resists oils, easy clean up with acetone, almost never hardens but the longer it sits and hotter it cycles the harder it gets. Aviation hardens more then hightack. Both are messy. Neither will clog an oil gallery like an rtv. Hondabond is like an rtv with sawdust so it dries less stringy than rtv but had 90% of rtv sealing. Critical things about sealers to me are ease of clean up, fouling ability, ease of part disassembly, and operating temperature range. There is no 1 size fits all.

 

Yamabond is an alternative, but I use the GM oil pan sealant that is now used by GM instead of oil pan gaskets themselves.

 

Hondabond is good stuff

 

While were on the topic of sealer, I haven't seen much mention of anaerobic sealer. I source it from my local Napa. I've used it on a number of applications from sealing washers to drain plugs etc. It's worked great on several of the vintage cars here when I was wrenching. I loved it so much that I keep it at home for use on my vintage Harley Davidsons. (If you thing a vintage Ferrari leaks, try owning a early Harley!)

Some great info in this thread guys!