HELP WITH MAKING AN OFFER

I really agree if you try to low ball a guy who doesn't need a quick sale it may put him off and he will either negotiate harder or he just may blow you off.

 

60% clutch is low for only 9xxx miles

 

This is a key idea. Most of the owners for these cars don't HAVE to sell. They want to sell but they are fine if they don't. That means cash has no magic powers. In negotiating there is a rule that you anchor high or low and you get a better deal. BUT that assumes that the parties are driven to make the deal. In this type of situation, the seller doesn't generally mind you getting a reasonable deal but they don't want to feel like you are trying to take advantage of them. If you try a ridiculous offer, they will hold on thier price and pretty much ignore you. Go in reasonable and close on the car.

 

This is more of wear for that mileage than I would expect. I wouldn't fly out there before a PPI was completed. I have less clutch wear than that on my car at 16k mi.

 

my car had 60% left at 24k miles. but then again it really depends on how the car was driven. If it was mostly driven on the highway wear would be less and if it was mostly driven in the city/ stop and go traffic you will see more wear.

 

Be fair. Turn the tables around and ask yourself how would you like to be treated if you were selling the car. $120,000 is a very good price for only 3 owners and all the features you mentioned.
Also how bad do you want the car? Are you willing to not get it?
Mine is a 2006, the guy wanted $120,000, I asked if he would take $115,000 and he said no and that was the end of it. Mine was a 4 owner car and very well taken care off. Good luck.

 

Offer $110 and see what he says. You're not gonna lose anything and the offer is not too low as to be seen as an insult. Good luck.

 

Unless you know for a fact that he doesn't NEED to sell, you don't know his situation or motivation. Offer the 105 and negotiate.... he just might bite. You'll never know unless you ask. Remember, you can never go lower than your initial offer, only up.

 

When I have sold a car myself and get an offer in the same vain as the $105k offer I just don't respond. I just blow it off as the person not being serious and wasting my time so I don’t have to get involved in a non-productive conservation. But then that’s me and usually didn’t have to sell the car except for storage space or at my wife’s suggestion if I want to get an additional car.

 

Best advice I can give you is be fair to yourself and be fair to the seller.

 

Maybe if he is trading in on a new purchase sure, but wiggling down 1K isn't really showing a strong urge to sell IMO. I really don't follow the 430 market but it always looks like there are a lot of them for sale so maybe the guy is doing you a favor. You might enjoy the owner ship experience a bit more if you bought a cheaper one and had a lot of folding money left for incidentals. That's how I got into a 360 instead. I was cross shopping gated 430's. At the time they were trading around 125-130 but it would have been all I could manage to get one. Then a gated 360 popped up in my zip code for 90. It was easy for me to justify the purchase that left me with a Ferrari and enough bucks for a garage addition and a lift and a new to me vintage Ducati! Good luck!

 

Have you done the PPI and how did it come out? What needs to be done? How much does it cost for those items. Those are negiotating points. If doesn't need any service you can afford to pay more since you will not have any immediate service issues. I have always found that buying a car with NO service issues is better for me, as when I start doing service that a couple "extra" issues pop up and I spend even more than I had planned on the service.

I think if he can get 5k or so more than a trade offer he will likely accept your offer. But have a price in mind that you are willing to walk away from. Were I negiotating I would offer 115k and then come back at 116k after his counter offer and walk at anything above 116k. That's assuming I/you really want the car/deal. My opinion I could be wrong?

 

If it is in good shape it is well worth the 120k. If $10k is a barrier you may not want to buy a f car. Just being honest.


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If you are close to his trade-in offer, don't expect to be able to nickel-and-dime him based on PPI - would probably more be for you to decide if you are ok with it as is at that price and those faults - likely more like take it or leave it. I would still make the $115k offer and see what happens, but keep in mind that a difference of $3.5k is noise when it comes to F-cars. First shop visit, and you could easily exceed that...

 

Sometime a seller just don't want the hassle and price the car fairly. If it is fair, it is fair. Worth to ask once if he will lower, but if the answer is no, you either buy it or walk away. Fair is fair.

 

Listen to these guys. They're talking sense.

And listen to what ar4me said about cost and I'll elaborate further on what he implied but stopped short of saying: if the $3.5k is the difference between your being able to afford the car or not afford the car, you should be looking at something else because you can get big bills with this or any Ferrari and in the end $3.5k will be simply noise.

Now, I'm confident that when you say you can't go over $115k you don't mean that you can't afford it. It means you don't want to. Still, this has to be said.

 

Lot of truth in the comments about $3.5K making a difference in the deal or not. I love making a great deal as much as the next guy. But personally I would prefer pay $120k and buy from a Fcar dealer with ALL the service up to date and the car completely checked out, than pay $115 with several service items open or undetermined.

If there several service items open plan to pay $3 - $5k to get service current. Unless you personally know of a great independent suggest having your first service done by a Fcar dealer so you have a good baseline and know exactly where you are in the car. No matter how complete, a PPI are usually surface inspections and don't really give you the complete picture of exactly where the car is on maintenance in my past experience.

 

whats the highest number youd feel good about getting that car at?
that should be your line in the sand, regardless of how many ppl here say its a good deal. Its easy to say that when its someone elses money being spent. I think it should feel good when you make a purchase like this, not begrudgingly.

I think a PPI is a good idea for that reason. If youre stretching yourself to a number you aren't comfortable with, and then a significant expense comes up shortly after, I think it will really taint the experience. you may end up hating the car or the seller, and that would be a shame.

that said, are you one of those people that no matter how good the deal is, still needs to chisel a few more bucks off to convince yourself you really got a good deal? in that case, you may find buying a car like this to be extremely frustrating. that's why I think you need to come up with your own number that you use to fish or cut bait with and don't stray too much in either direction of it.

 

Another thing to keep in mind, there are at any one time, a lot of 430's for sale. If the current market only has the one that rings your bell, be a little patient. The next few weeks will bring more and more to the surface. The next one that gets you going will probably be a lot closer to you also which simplifies matters greatly. The 430 market is soft which makes it a buyer's market. Time is on your side, it is not on a 430 seller's side.

 

Just don't be the guy sitting on the side line while life passes by