Ferrari 308 Drup Sump nut and bold restored-Price check please

So, we all know prices have slid some. Number I'm getting is 150K, car is stateside, well trusted source selling car.

Anyone have some real numbers on one of these? Triple black. Not a big black fan, but.....seems they always do well for some reason at Auction. Oh, I think 79 but will check. Of course it is a carb car.

 

Values don't effect restoration costs, my triple black dry sump concours restoration would cost £150k to restore by a specialist, Metalwork and paint alone was £50k, engine gearbox £15k, interior £15k, my labour probably 1000 hours which is £70k if chargeable


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Does this mean that if you do not realize 300k pounds, the car is underwater? Plus you have not added in the cost of the car before restoration...

 

In a declining market the value is what the market will pay, not the cost of a project plus restoration cost. In a rising market that gives a good estimate because restorers have the option to buy a project themselves instead of restoring your car and charging you. I saw this with Eagle E-types-- their restoration charges followed the auction prices minus the cost of a project donor car.

Juan, is it a LHD European car or a US car that has had the dry sump added? 150 seems high for a US car in this market unless it is documented to have very low mileage or is very original (which it is not.)

There will be a lot of uncertainty for the next few months due to the US election. I would try to get it for 90 and wait them out as few buyers will be interested in a >100k 308 with all this uncertainty.

 

I think 150k sounds right. I know of a few very nice nice dry sumps that have traded in the 125 range. A restored car like this should bring 150k. Best cars still bring the money.

 

My company is in the midst of performing a nut & bolt, concourse restoration on a European Vetroresina. Our goal is to end up with one of the best examples yet with no compromises or modifications.
This is the second such car I have worked on in the past year and I have found that the section of the front frame, which sits in direct contact, with the lower valance has a tendency to rust badly. There is not a drain to allow any water which accumulates in the valance to drain. The remedy is can be costly.
A good restoration stands the test of time and looks great ten years later. That's the challenge. Cheap restorations don't.

 

I looked at a few really nice ones in the last several months and the range I saw was $90-140k.

 

I'm underwater but the restoration outlay was £80k + my labour plus the car cost. It's not financial viable but I will have a car better than what I can buy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

David

Do you mean that part of the frame between the radiator and the battery, sitting on the fiberglass in the photo below?

Thanks in advance
David
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes those are areas of concern but the bigger potential problems lie with the main rails right below the front sway bar mounts.
There is a bit of work to do so but I would remove the front valance and inspect all of the steel components which come in direct contact with the fiberglass valance.
I am planning on adding some weep holes in the rear lip of the valance that would facilitate water drainage.

 

150 k for a really nut and bolt restored drysump (and well restored in factory specs and so on, with everything, tools pouch and so on, no faults anywhere, better if in a non red and nice color) is a correct price also today. Of course must be a top condition and originality car that can be a contender for the first place in a car show.
My one costed me 130 k after paying it 50 k and without considering 300+ hours I lost in it

ciao

 

Sounds right to me.

 

I think 150k in this market would be right IF it was a full nut and bolt restoration like Al (STRICTLY FERRARI) does on the 308 GT4's. The problem is there are quite a few of these cars that have received "light restorations" that are on the market now. Most of these cars were driven hard in Europe and then when they are brought over to the US many times a lot of cosmetic work is done to make them look up to snuff. One way to gauge the market is to give Artie a call down at IAG. I know he has several for sale now and I can remember seeing 3 or 4 undergoing a "light restoration" at his facility last year. These were not full nut and bolt restorations, but are probably very nice driver cars. Also, Steve at RPM in Vermont has brought over several Euro spec 308's within the last year or so and could probably shed some light on the proper price. Better yet, you could head over to RM's Duemila Route sale in Milan at the end of this month and pick one up for yourself. They even have a couple of fiberglass cars crossing the block! I was thinking about heading over myself, but really have no reason to go at the moment, at least until I sell some cars to make some space!

 

I agree with Glenn. If it is a true nut and bolt resto $150k is the very high watermark these days. 'Light resto' and otherwise straight cars can be had in the $120k ish range.

 

To the OP, that's really late (1979) for a North American car to have a OEM dry sump engine..

It's from another market??
Euro??

And while you say a "carb car", is it CAT equipped, or NON CAT?

 

thanks. I would add that for such an expensive car, fully nut and bolt restored everywhere, a classiche certificate would be very nice, as it can assure that a so huge restore was done correctly and with the correct parts.

ciao

 

Here's mine at the moment dry sump uk car in original triple black, quite rare only a few in this colour in the uk, still trying to find out exactly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

As the previous post mentions the steel sections at the front fill with water and rust from the inside out, the swell up. We cut them out and inside was solid rust! My car looked pretty nice when I bought it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Alan,

It's my understanding all USA spec cars were wet sump. The GTB's produced for Europe were always wet sump and were cat free with the higher lift cams (like US spec 76 & 77 cars) up until carb production ended with the 2 valve injected cars

 

Carb, Euro, GTBs were all DRY sump, not wet...I think that's what you meant. They also had diffrent gear ratios.

I'm no expert, but no US dry sump cars unless done as some add on or mod. And if so, it would not be the same in value as a Euro Dry Sump in either Steel or Glass, which are the two 308s most likely to grow in value.

I think a fully concourse restored Steel Dry Sump car is worth more than $150K, but you might be able to find one around that price. The right buyer looking for a particularly stunning color may easily pay more, knowing that to make one could cost $250-300K.

 

Agree. Just euro cars have the drysump engine. More or less they are 1000 cars, considering both vetroresina and steel.

My one costed "just" 130 k (euro) as I found one cheap at 50 k (in not bad conditions) and I live in a place (near Modena) where such a work can be done in a good way at the best price. My opinion is that such a work done abroad and at the same level, would cost no less than 200 k (euro) or 200 K USD as in the US you don't have VAT.

If someone here has a drysump engine installed on a USA car, there could be the possibility of buying my friend 308 euro drysump GTB that had an engine change and now has a wetsump engine. It could be a bargain that could fix two cars in a time.

Or, even better, selling him your drysump engine and having a wetsump engine plus money


ciao

 

Yes this is a Euro car imported from Italy.

 

That's exactly what I was trying to ask, ours were all wet sump.

So, this is Euro...or non original engine?

 

Well, than ALL of them (Euro) were NON CAT thru the end of carbs in 1980.

Buy it.

It's illegal in America, but...a quibble.

 

j/k....examine the Import Paperwork , but at this point, the Feds have bigger fish to fry.....