Distributor Shaft Seal Installation Advice Needed. | FerrariChat

Distributor Shaft Seal Installation Advice Needed.

Discussion in '308/328' started by Archer911, Nov 30, 2016.

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  1. Archer911

    Archer911 Formula Junior

    Sep 26, 2016
    907
    New England
    Full Name:
    Tim
    #1 Archer911, Nov 30, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have read many accounts here about many 308 owners with the oil leak at the distributor shafts. Some say the seal at the shaft is leaking, others say it's the o-ring on the coupling (table 39 parts 3 and 8) Both of my shafts leak. On 5-8 it's definitely the seal. On 1-4 it could be both.

    3 questions:

    1) On the sealing ring, which has a metal outer ring and a rubber inner under tension from a small spring, what do you guys put on the metal part of the ring where that makes contact with the "Cap Distributor Support #1?"

    2) Upon reading the advice on Unobtanium vis-a-vis the shift seal (see txt below) have any of you broken the glaze on the shaft that the sealing ring rides prior to installation? Verrel's tip makes a lot of sense and I wonder if it applies here (I know the shift shaft moves differently than the distributor shaft does but....

    "TIP#1: BREAK SHAFT GLAZE:
    Seals work by the surface tension of a film of oil. When polished the shaft doesn't hold enough oil to either seal properly, or to lubricate the seal. Once the shift shaft is removed, break the glaze where the seal has polished the shift shaft by rubbing with 1500 to 3000 grit sandpaper (ScotchBriteTM even grey is too coarse). You just want a very smooth satin appearing finish. The satin finish lets a fine film of oil adhere to the shaft, even when it slides under the seal."

    3) After knocking the pin out of the coupling I am not sure how to separate it from the shaft. I don't want to damage this and I want to replace the o-ring as long as I have all of this apart.

    Thanks.
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  2. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    Apr 1, 2004
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    SMG
    To remove the drive end I use a aluminum dowel and tap it out, though it requires also removing the cam pulley bolt from the other end, the cam is hollow. They are in fairly tight.

    And yes there is a finish for lip seals, don't recall the Ra number off hand but it's a cross hatch pattern to trap and keep oil at the seal.
     
  3. Archer911

    Archer911 Formula Junior

    Sep 26, 2016
    907
    New England
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Oh boy, this is more complicated than I thought! Thanks for the heads up on it though.
     
  4. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    Jun 8, 2007
    55,931
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    My '81 had NO O-Rings nor grooves for them in the distributor mounting tip that slips into the cam

    €2000 showed me they were glued in.


    Not a HAPPY Camper. :(
     
  5. Archer911

    Archer911 Formula Junior

    Sep 26, 2016
    907
    New England
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Das ist nicht so gut.
     
  6. Archer911

    Archer911 Formula Junior

    Sep 26, 2016
    907
    New England
    Full Name:
    Tim
    #6 Archer911, Dec 2, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It took 5 or 6 tries but it was no big deal to get the new seal ring into the distributor base mount. I did use some universal chassis grease and tapping carefully with the soft end of the hammer on the socket did the trick.

    Does anyone know the proper torque values for the 2 nuts and one bolt?

    Do you guys always use a sealant on such a component or trust the new gasket?

    Thanks.
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  7. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    Jun 8, 2007
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    Mark W.R.
    You 'Play.' You Pay.

    I learned a little SOMETHING about the oft used phrase, "While you're there ......."
     
  8. jdamon

    jdamon Formula Junior

    Jul 6, 2015
    288
    Boston
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    Jeff
    I used a very thin layer of rtv (gray) on the green gasket (paper), and nothing on the cork gasket. Hope that helps!
     
  9. Archer911

    Archer911 Formula Junior

    Sep 26, 2016
    907
    New England
    Full Name:
    Tim

    Thank you for the response.

    Already used Hylomar M on the green gasket. Of course nothing on the cork.

    Was surprised how easily the new seals went on. The toughest part of the process was getting those damn rubber boots over the caps.

    2 potential stumbling blocks as I see it are making sure the wires are stripped adequately so that proper contact is made with the piercing screws and making sure the extensions engage the wires and the plugs all the way.
     
  10. jdamon

    jdamon Formula Junior

    Jul 6, 2015
    288
    Boston
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    Yeah, getting things apart was way more difficult than actually changing the seals!
     

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