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348 starter solenoid winding options?

Discussion in '348/355' started by ///Mike, Dec 22, 2016.

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  1. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
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    #1 ///Mike, Dec 22, 2016
    The coil in my Denso starter solenoid has apparently packed it in. There is no noise or action from the solenoid even when jumping it directly to the main positive cable. Lots of posts in the archives concerning the contacts in the solenoid but I haven't found anything about the windings yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for replacement windings or any other help such as a recommendation for a high quality rebuilder familiar with those starters?
     
  2. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
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    Isle of man- uk
    #2 mike32, Dec 23, 2016
    Put a multimeter across the winding and see if you read a resistance- if you have a resistance then the winding should be ok. If you have no circuit then the windings have burnt out.
    If you can get the core out of the solonoid you can try putting 12 volts on the windings and see if it attracts a screwdriver which will prove the windings are producing the magnetic field.
    I think they use denso bits in a toyota so see if u can find something there
     
  3. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #3 m.stojanovic, Dec 23, 2016
  4. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #4 m.stojanovic, Dec 23, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Before you suspect the solenoid windings, check the starter motor brushes. If they lose contact, the solenoid will not be able to pull the "bendix" because the pull-in coil of the solenoid gets ground through the starter motor brushes. The other, holding coil, which operates independently can hardly move the bendix. One thing you can try is to turn the motor by hand a few turns and try again the solenoid.
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  5. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
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    #5 ///Mike, Dec 24, 2016
    Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I was pretty certain that it was the coil because there was no spark and no reaction whatsoever when I jumped the trigger wire to +12VDC. That's now been confirmed, as there is infinite resistance between the trigger terminal and ground. I'd hoped it would temporarily cure itself once it cooled off (classic thermal failure of the solenoid) but that didn't happen so I guess it's a clean break between the trigger terminal and the coils. The car only has 23k miles, and obviously fewer on the updated starter, so I'm guessing it's a manufacturing defect that finally revealed itself.

    Appreciate the suggestions regarding replacement parts. I was hoping that someone had already been down this road and could give me a part number, but there's some solace in knowing that this style of starter is used on a number of different makes & models. Hopefully our local rebuilder will recognize it if I can figure out how to get the bloody thing out of its housing (that's the one thing none of the rebuild posts I've seen have covered).

    Hoping to pull the starter later and will update when I know more.

    Thanks again for the replies. Happy HolidaZe.
     
  6. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #6 m.stojanovic, Dec 24, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It is highly unlikely that both windings of the solenoid have burned at the same time. The pull-in coil has almost zero resistance and the holding coil about 1 Ohm. The complete loss of continuity suggests that the the wires of the two windings have just detached from the terminal post ("S" on the diagram I posted). See if you can inspect the terminal post from inside (red circle on the picture).
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  7. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

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    #7 ///Mike, Dec 24, 2016
    There is no spark whatsoever when I use a jumper lead from the +12VDC to the trigger wire for the solenoid so I've been thinking something similar. I'm just hoping I'm that lucky. ;)

    Thanks for your thoughts!
     

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