It's 2017, let's do the OIL thing, which one

I'm not even going to search, it's been almost two years since I did an oil change, today at Napa I spotted Lucas oil "high zinc" in 20/50, didn't say if it was synthetic but is sold by the gallon. Discuss

I promise to argue

 

Also how about a picture of some oil containers so I can reference anytime at the auto parts joint. I don't have any oil pix so how about one of my old shop
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For old flat tapped engine.

 

I just did the "search for the perfect oil" and what I came up with as a good option is Mobil 1 0w40 European formula. It is fully synthetic, and has a reasonable amount of zinc. It's readily available and reasonably priced. Many intelligent folks convinced me that 0 weight for start up is the way to go. And the oils that were specifically for older cars with flat tappet cams, were either really expensive, or for racing only (so no good detergent package). And then, it is also possible to have too much zinc. I looked at that same Lucas oil product, and a brand called champion ( who makes the one for Hemmings), and I didn't like their options for weights, and it was pricey. I don't think I could find a spec for exactly how much zinc and phosphorous were in those brands either. That's where the big name ones are a little better, there is a lot of info available.

 

Castrol Edge 5W50 or 5W40 (European spec)
Mobil1 0W40
Shell Rotella T6 0W40 or 5W40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 (Ferrari approved!)

Use Full Synthetic, as specified by Ferrari at the factory for at least the QVs and newer. Zinc is over-rated for overhead cam engines, but the Castrol 5W50 does have higher ZDDP content than most modern oils if it matters to you.

A 20W50 mineral oil, imho, is much too thick at a ambient temperature startup (ie cold start), when 90% of engine wear occurs - mineral oil is thicker than synthetic at ambient, especially cooler ambient temps, and won't get pumped around to bearing and wear surfaces as quickly as thinner synthetic oil. Synthetics protect sooner and better on engine starts. Synthetics also provide much better high temperature protection, resisting sludge buildup.

 

The only oil that's been in my 328 for the past 8 1/2 years.

 

I run Brad Penn.

 

Ah, a thread on oïl...now, who's gonna start one on timing belt change intervals?

Rgds

(Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 since 2008 for my cars)
Rgds

 

I tried to get Helix for my turbo ricer (Celica GT-Four) in the US, and the local Shell distributor lost the ability to speak English.

I've heard that Quaker State has Helix under another name.

My only concern with the Mo-1 is that they keep changing the formula.
About 15 or so years back, they had to recall a batch.
But I use it in the EVO(s) as it's what the manual calls for.

My 328 manual calls for SINT-2000 (semi-synthetic).
I picked up two cases a while back (as the Alfa specs it also), and still have a few quarts left.
(The Alfa wound up in storage for a while, due to garage space and the corn gas.)

I also had a bunch of Redline for the gearboxes, but the movers refused to move it.

 

An informative video to watch, it's about cold weather and oil

https://youtu.be/OWiQyR7PWII

 

Does anyone make a syn 10W50 with the correct zinc level?

I don't think that formulation even exists any longer

 

Sorry, I should have been more precise: when I wrote "my cars" above, I was thinking of the two 328, 1989 GTB and 1989 GTS.

Rgds

 

Shell Rotella T6 0W40 or 5W40.

Cam belt changes every 5 to 7 years.

Goodyear Eagle GT tires.

Flame on!

 

Sure, Castrol Edge 5W50 has a high ZDDP content.

 

The only problem with 0W-40 synthetic oils is that they make the "controlled oil seepage" get a little out of control. The 20W-50 has no or little seepage. Having said that, I use 0W-40. Maybe one day I'll reseal the engine, again...

 

Useful if you drive regularly in sub 0 temps.

My 308 is garaged @ 13C minimum so that's the lowest oil temp it would ever see from cold. It rarely sees < +5C outside. Maybe once a year at the very most.

 

i've found Q8 10W50 oil i don't know about zinc https://www.amazon.it/motore-tempi-10W50-sintetico-Q8/dp/B019CDNXR2 [url ]http://www.gommadiretto.it/cgi-bin/oshop.pl?item_id=469&&dsco=130&cart_id=84327956.130.11457&Cookie=&oil_category=olio-motore&oil_viscosity=10w-50&oil_release=&vehicle_disabled=1[/url ]

 

This. I believe it's a semi-synthetic with correct amount of zinc for our engines.

 

What about olive oil? Virgin, extra virgin, non-synthetic is best.

High zinc kill cats. Brad Penn semi synthetic has very high zinc, but it states can destroy cats. I run it in my Boxer, but try and use mobil 1 15-50 in the 308qv. I have used other brands of 20-50 and 10-40 and I have seen zero differences over 25k miles. Car still runs great and has no problem pulling to redline. It's @ 72K Miles.

We might as well talk filters as they get changed every time as well. Now I just use Baldwin, what is it 252B.

 

Ecco 10w50 Grade Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil

Tim at Opie Oils knows his stuff and could both explain and recommend any oil application.

 

Nah, no way. That stuff. 70% is adulterated with lord knows what.

Unfiltered, from your own grandmother's olive grove is best.

 

What oil was the Ferrari engine designed to use in the 70's and 80's? There are a host of other engine design issues that the engineers had in mind when designing the engines. For instance Flat Lifters, Bearing and Piston Cylinder wall clearances. Some synthetics may very well be better oils compared to the old stuff, but running a thinner viscosity fluid with an engine designed to larger tolerances, may or may not be a good thing. My 2 cents worth... feel free to go to town now!

 

I had my old oil checked/analyzed by an oil company and they said the 5W40 the previous owner had been using was too thin for the 308 QV engine.
So I switched to Shell 10W60 Racing since.
The 0W30/40 oils must be way too thin for such an old engine.

The manual says Agip SINT 2000 10W40 I think? So that will also be fine, but I prefer a more modern oil.

 

Doesn't racing oil need to be changed every 500 miles or 1-2 months, as it has no detergents?

 

I've read that the time to make a change to full-synth is after a rebuild.
Once the engine has been "run-in" on semi-synth, the slipperier full-synth will seep out past the bearings.

I don't know how much research was behind that conclusion. It came from an engine rebuilder.