belt change gone south

Gotta watch that "befell" method...whatever that is...

 

Glad it all works out.

 

'Verell'-method with some keys at close quarters

Not every F-tech is a piano player

Best
Martin

 

For some reason the european 3.2 engine has stamped marks on the external part of the cam shafts behind the timing belt sprockets, these line up with a metal bracket with an arrow on it, attached to the cam cover so it is easy to see the cam positions for timing belt changes. Parts lists says not for US engines ? No idea why , any one know ?

 

Stone guards (back covers), means hidden pulley flanges on the US cars and none on the Euro cars? Don't know, but this just came to my mind.

Best
Martin

 

The cam belts and sprockets are all covered in with the normal alloy covers, you have to hang over the rear wings with head over the engine to get above these indicators to line the bracket arrow up with the stamped line on the cam shaft.
The indicator brackets are pt no 125109 and 125110, very handy.

 

Actually no leaks at all. But I would not want to use sealant all over the gaskets, firstly owing to the risk of it squeezing out into the engine and also the hassle of getting it all off next time. The cam cover gaskets should be fitted dry. The Klingersil material these are made from has an anti-stick surface to facilitate removal and using sealant not only defeats the object of this but wont stick to it.

The tricky part is the O-ring seal which you mention. This poor design can be alleviated by using X-rings which are designed for a square channel, which it is, and also taking the edge off the burrs where the channel has been machined on the faces of the head and cam cover so the ring does not get pinched when the cover is fitted.

 

I used Klingersil gaskets on my rebuild for all oil surfaces. Dry as per mfg spec sheet. No leaks. If ever taken apart again I expect an easygoing clean up job. Just saying!!!

 

Silicone sealer is a tool of the devil.

I despise it and almost never use it on anything except a bathtub.

That being said, the issue with it is less about the product itself than it is about the horrible way it is typically abused by glopping it on a fitting/gasket with the resulting squeeze-out on the outside looking like a 5 year old did the work and on the inside...well, oil passages are quite small. Not to mention that it glues the parts together. Terrible stuff.

 

The green Klingersil stuff gets baked as well over the years and mls.
I have good experiences with using a flimsy amount of a non hardening -no silicone- sealant -also from Klinger- on the gaskets.
The biggest mistake when using sealant is using excessive amounts and silicone sealant together with soft packing gaskets.

Best
Martin

 

Thanks for all the help. Once the cam covers were off it was simple to get everything back in alignment. When the locks let go you guys correctly assumed it got one tooth off, it was good prior to moving the crank to take up slack. This time the ferrari method of tensioning was used and all is good in the end

 

Great!

 

Buy yourself a beer or bottle of bubbly for your perseverance!

 

+1

 

The tension spring sits in a bucket that extends beyond the tensioner body and moves in and out. As you rotate the motor you can see it move in and out. IIRC the farther out the tighter the belt is pushing against the spring and vice versa. If your anal you can measure the bucket movement and find the most slack and tight positions. Ask me how I know��