'78 GTB Battery Cutoff Switch

Hey guys,

I've found a few other posts about 308 cutoff switches, but nothing that I can seem to nail down. I park my car in a covered deck here downtown with a cover on. Sadly, there's nowhere to hook up a trickle charger so the battery goes flat A LOT.

I'd like to install a ground cutoff switch in the frunk area, but I'm finding a lot of conflicting information about locations, switch types, etc. Does anyone have any tips/pictures about their install? Am I correct in saying this IS NOT a stock item?

Thanks,

E

 

I had mine fitted when I bought the car (20 years ago!). It has been a god send.
This appears to be what was fitted:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/battery-isolators-master-switches
Bad bit of cut and paste, if you scroll down it's the Autolec item


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I added one of these to mine and am planning on adding it as standard equipment to all future cars. It just make working on the car so much easier.
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Echo above - its so simple - get home turn car off - leaving turn car on

As I recall basic LMA replaced Richbrook

 

Curious where you placed the switch? I would like convenient but unobtrusive.

 

This is the easiest, simpliest and cheapest way to do it with absolutly no mods to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Swan-Type-Battery-Cut-Off-Switch/dp/B001JE32H4

 

Currently my spare tire well is out, so its mounted to a temporary bulkhead. It could be mounted next to where the main ground wire disconnect is placed so as to be reversible back to stock. This would also eliminate excessive use to the ground disconnect.

 

At least on the Euro cars the cigarette lighter is fed by a hot wire (permanently 12V) where I connect my trickle charger via a fitting plug.
Is this different on US cars?
Another option is the socket hidden below the oil temp gauge / clock.

Edit: I assume, that you have the earlier Brico cig. lighter. So this bows out. But the other mentioned socket is still an option.

Best Regards
Martin

 

My problem isn't so much attaching the charger, but that there's no mains power in the garage that I can access.

Is there a way to install a cutoff switch in the frunk while retaining the spare wheel liner? Maybe by the horn?

Are these switches able to handle the starter wire as well, or are people just cutting off the accessory line?

 

Can you use a wall or the roof of your garage? You surely have a lot of sun in Atlanta. I have a briefcase style solar charger hooked to a large capacity SUV battery & I'm in dingy England. It works perfectly.

 

Have it on my Alfa, where access to the battery is easy. But I think, this is no option for the 308 due to battery access.

On the 308 I made it, like shown on of the pictures below. My installation, my cut off switch, and example for a key with rain protection.
I just forgot, that there are also keys with some rain protection. Then I made this myself with a rubber from an old track rod end.

I made a bracket from 2mm thick sheetmetal and attached it to the spare tire bucket with two thick pop-rivets and two lage diameter washers on the opposite side. (original italian bodywork style )

The cut off switch is lopped into the thick ground cable from the battery to the frame. I would not install it in the +-cable.

But this location is probably still a problem on 308s with the earlier spare tire cover with the zipper.

Best Regards
Martin
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I installed one of the removable key types a few weeks ago. There is really no need for a mounting bracket, just use a two inch long piece of half inch wide aluminum flat bar bolted to one terminal of the switch and the original mounting point of the ground strap. That is enough to support the switch then connect ground strap to the other terminal and you're done.

 

Don't know the brand but i like the look...
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Pictures? I cannot picture how you get easy access. The original ground strap mounting point is below the battery cover and spare wheel on my car. I even cannot access the mounting point with the battery installed.

Besf
Martin

 

That's a clean install right there. I THINK that's the Lucas repro switch, available at a bunch of places. Are you switching the entire ground post? The only specs I could find on the starter was 115A @ 12V, so 1,400W. The material I could find on the Lucas switch was 100A, but that seems pretty low, given it's a physical connection.
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Maybe this was something retrofitted by the dealers when the car was new?
I saw exactly the same on Robert Retzlaff's (308gtb.de) car.

Except, that it was installed on the driver's side, what I also preferred for quick access. Just in case...

Best
Martin

 

Agreed this is what I did. No drilling or whole making needed. This switch's post however was too small for the cars terminal, so I got a lead battery post shim to make it fit.


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Don't you have to remove the spare and cover to get to the post?

 

Yes you do. But I keep my spare out of the car unless I'm going on longer trips or shows etc. But for charging I have a CTEK smart charger with the comfort connection that is fixes just under one of the veins of the front grill. Drive in the garage and plug it in, don't even have to open the bonnet.



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Disconnect the €/^%=#6* clock and your battery will last for months unattended.

 

This is a great idea, excellent stopgap solution until I can get it on the lift. Do you happen to know the fuse number off hand?

 

Mine is an '83 and possibly not original, it had a ground strap with a disconnect plug bolted to the frame member to the left of the radiator. I bolted the aluminum flat bar to that point, connected the other end to one terminal of the switch and then connected the strap to the other. I didn't need to fabricate a mount or drill any holes.
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No matter if original or not. This is a great, pragmatic solution.

Best
Martin

 

The previous owner of my 78 308 GTS installed a similar cut off switch. He had it done by a local race shop, they did a very clean, professional job... I actually thought it was factory. It was installed in the left front corner, outside the tire well. I think they riveted it to the outside the tire well with black rivets.

 

I had one of those on my Boston whaler! You can hook up the perm lead to the tender and run it up the side of the radiator. Pop front hood, connect and you are good. Keep the lead in place with a zip tie