I used it for three weeks til I sourced a 3 pedal ecu. Yes..cel light
Good info on just the CEL light, thanks. Many hard faults on the F1 system will set the CEL, but the CEL can be reset. Next time you start, though, on she comes. Just useful if you need to get a smog inspection. Reset and do not shut her off. I know from experience.
So what you guys are saying is that it is not necessary to have a PIN matched to a replacement alarm unit you are fitting to a car. The replacement unit will pick up the PIN from the old unit? Yes?
I've been reading this thread carefully, and I wanted to ask you the following : I have problems with my car and we have tried everything without luck.. The car seems to have rough idle, it hesitates to rev when cold, backfires through intake, doesn't pull as hard... I have checked timing with degree wheel, replaced MAFs, Oxygen Sensors, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, all air intake gaskets and even tried another set of throttle bodies... Nothing... So I was thinking of changing the ECU to test and see if that's the problem... What should I do first ? Does it make any sense to switch sides on my own ECU ? (no error codes whatsoever) Do I need 2 replacement ECUs or 1 to do my test ? From what I read , the passenger side ECU should stay in the car and I need to find "virgin" ECU for driver's side... Can I borrow it from another car, or do I need to buy a blank... Also , my car is manual So , do I need to borrow manual ECU or can I do the test with F1 ECU ? How do I test passenger side ECU ?? Do I put my driver's side ECU to right side and put new ECU on driver's side ? Thanks !!!!!
Get it on a Leonardo and try to get a proper diagnosis. Did you ever get that timing issue, (degreeing) sorted. Last I heard it was off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You might as well throw in new fuel injectors, cam position sensors, crankshaft position sensors to complete the list. Afterward, tell us what's the ECU error codes.
Two weeks ago I saw with my own eyes 657 for LH exhaust camshaft and 661 for RH exhaust camshaft. My mechanic who did the timing with degree wheel and dial gauges insists that this is very good timing... Plus if it was timing wrong, car would behave badly all the time, not just when cold..
Well that is something i was thinking.. already bought cps sensors.. hadn't had time to put them on... Was thinking about trying other ECU..
I'm not a pro. What's the data from the upstream sensors when cold? May be able to narrow the bank which is at fault. If able to determine bank with fault with o2 data Swap ecu's L-R and see if abnormal data follows ecu. Doubt both ecu went bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Otherwise I'd be thinking what changes when cold? What kind of cold? initial start for a minute or 2, or happens until full operating temp. Cracked intake manifold intake gaskets (replaced already- check nuts not loose.) Leaking air plenum gasket. Consider Smoke test or ether test Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now this is the interesting part.. I start the engine and for 90 seconds it seems to operate very strong (you hear very steady and powerful idle) After 90 seconds it seems to to slightly lose its rythem.. As if it is missing something (slightly rough idle) As i start to drive (oil cold) , as i switch to neutral gear (manual) with the car rolling, i try to rev the engine and nothing No response Just popping / backfire (which i thought was in the exhaust but it is based on mechanic in intake box) As it warms up this goes away (When cold and stopped, car revs normally) Warm the engine underperforms and rough idle (almost dies ) when coming to stop Yesterday did compression test 180 and 175 psi right / left bank all cylinders
Not trying to make your head explode but have you read this thread. Really convoluted and never resolved. 360 spider won't rev when rolling https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=9080&share_tid=527602&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eferrarichat%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D527602&share_type=t Also I recall another member said he had a similar problem and he replaced the charcoal canister and fixed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MD, after some looking you have have been having similar problems with this car for many years, and they have not been sorted. You have had many threads here to no avail. My advice is bring it to another mechanic. If you post a thread with a request for a mechanic near you I'd bet you will get a recommendation. I don't think this problem(s) will ever be found by posting for advice here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are right! That's exactly what i did! The new mechanic first checked if the center intake manifold works ok.. Next performed compression test if there is any bent valve.. 175-180 psi all cylinders ok Finally he tried a pair of borrowed throttle bodies.. no change Now he suggests we check timing the proper (difficult way) Or find a pair of ECU to check.. That's why i hijaked this thread to find out more about ECU.. help thanks!
Checking how close timing is is not difficult. Take off the cam inspection covers (aft of engine). put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 intake phase using piston stop method. Check the timing marks through the cam inspection cover. I used my kids play-doh to take an impression of the scribed marks on the cam and the reference mark. I know these marks are not always perfect, but if it is close to where Angelo had it when it left the ferrari factory then your problem is not timing. Cost will be like 20 bucks for inspection cover gaskets and labor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is possible to reprogram these ECU's with your car's data, without a 'bend over and grab your ankles' visit to the dealer. It is also possible to use what is essentially the same ECU from any variety of Alfas and Fiats. 360Trev did this on my car with some very inexpensive tools, a laptop and a wire harness that he put together. We downloaded the files from one of my ECU's and put it on another Bosch ECU and the car ran! Earlier in this thread there was talk about the 'master/slave' relationship. The right ECU (passenger) is the master. It interacts with that little devil, the immobilizer which links to the right ECU. Once the right ECU is bound to that immobilizer, they are connected for good. One would have to virginize or get a fresh or left ECU to replace that side. There is a company in Florida called ECU doctors that can figure all this out for you. You would have to pull the ECU's and send them over. I would start with a phone call to them. They are very helpful.
With my new mechanic we decided to check the timing first (check if my old mechanic got it 100% right) Next we deal with ECU... Anyone that has had a failed ECU can explain the symptoms when an ECU fails ? Maybe 1 cylinder bank not working, CEL light, etc etc ?
MD355, There are many factors that can cause an ECU to go bad. The ECU's on a 360 very different than most control units because they use a hybrid circuit design. See attachments. This design is very reliable so what tends to go bad in these units is the software more than anything else. Swapping ECU's from one side to the other helps diagnose these issues because if the problems moves from one bank to the other, you know that you have a bad ECU. At that point the only solution would be to program a different control unit using the software from the good ECU. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread but for some reason my Right side Motronic ECU does not show up (or lists as abnormal, absent, etc.) in a system scan. Yet the car runs fine. A while ago it was still abnormal but had some immobilizer code present. Car was not touched for any ECU programming, swapping, updates, etc...the only thing that was done at some point was to replace the alarm 'siren' so nothing to do with imobilizer/etc.? Thoughts on how this may have happened? The car runs fine.
