Need help from the FChat brain trust. My 328 wouldn't start one day, no sound from the fuel pump. I checked the fuses and the pump, but since it was original I replaced it. Turn the key and the car fires right up and I drive it around for a few days. A few days later it is parked and home and I turn the key and......same problem. It cranks, but no fuel pump noise. Recheck every connection, fuses, relay, and nothing. What do I do next?
Well, it sounds like the fuel pump itself wasn't the problem. Did you check the relay to ensure it has good connection/no corrosion?
Try rapping on the fuel pump lightly with a wooden pole, or something like that, while someone is trying to start the car.
When I had a similar problem, this is what ended up sorting it. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/527068-328-cranking-but-not-starting-part-ii-no-fuel.html and how I got there: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/154250-328-cranking-but-not-starting.html
Check the circuit board and all of the plugs and connections in the passenger footwell (remove the access panel). I had a bad connection there (inside one of the plugs!) that drove me crazy for weeks. When your car won't start, wiggle a wire or two near the circuit board...if it then starts you've likely found your problem.
first thing I would do is disconnect the blue connection on the airflow meter. with this removed the pump should start as soon as you switch on the contact.
Did you check the connection on the brought plug below the passenger side foot well ? early 328 had a issue with the connection becoming warm and looses proper contact at times, this is on the fuel pump circuit, this was sorted out on later models with the connection bypassed, wire went straight through (not using a contact point on that plug ) there's an older thread here with good pictures. regards Johnny
So I had this problem as well, and it turned out to be the fuel pump connector both behind the foot board on passengers side, as well as connector behind the fuse block. they get, hot and burn out/ crack. as someone else stated, disconnect the connector to the fuel distributer. then put the key in and turn to ignition slot 1 , no need to try to start the car. if that circuit is energized you should her a "buzz" pretty loud... if not then you know its the fuel pump circuit. if it is buzzing then you need to look at the starter motor, and then spark/ coil, etc.. check fuses - obviously. there is also a protection relay with a fuse under the rear side of the luggage compartment on the passengers side. un bolt the plate and turn upside down. some times - but un likely - there will be a disconnection from the electronic control box... you will see a large relay with a fuse in it.. check that: 1. its plugged in correctly 2. the fuse is not burnt out or cracked or rusted. 3. the connectors are clean, and tightly connected... these can in some cased get damp, and rusty ... but usually they are fine. for the fuse panel, un do the two screws holding it on the dash, gently pull it down and forward., you will then see a lot of wiring ... be gentle as its old, and takes "set - so you can crack wires... but then you will see white connectors - look for any dark spots... that means the plastic is burt, or brittle and connections are not working. if blue connector is un plugged, from the fuel distributor, and the key is on, and after moving the connectors - you here it start to buzz - you have found your fault area. mine would do this intermittently - once it was warm out side, I think it just continued to crack with the heat expanding the wires etc... good luck....Most likely it will turn out to be something pretty simple.. but a PITA to find.
Mine did the same thing... it was the connector in the passenger foot well. I would check the connections there. I ended up pulling the connector apart and connecting the wires directly.
I had the same issue as stated above. The problem turned out to be a burnt connection in the plastic connector located on the left side of the fuse panel. Note that when is occurs, the actual metal connector becomes fatigued and will need to be replaced.
Yes - usually the heat created burns / melts the plastic and it becomes very brittle... you have to be careful to not create more damage, when fixing this.
Exactly. In the end its not really worth replacing the connector when it fails. Its not like it ever really gets used to disconnect anything. I just got rid of the connector altogether in the foot well and soldered the wires directly and used heat shrink on them to insulate.
