Can't remember the price.
Image Unavailable, Please Login With lots of discussion going on about the V8 Dino, I’m still in love with the V6 and am interested in it’s potential, especially if the performance updates are hidden. Could you tell me more about the Stratos “quick change gearbox”? Is it a straight cut gearbox? Noisy? Freeman
Most racing Stratos used the helical cut gears. There were nine or so transfer gear sets of different ratios. The "B/C" set was the most popular for rallying but it is pretty low for normal road driving. I have most of the different gear sets and put a taller "A" set in which is more suitable for normal driving. There was also a taller ring and pinion gear available but they tended to break under the rigors of rallying but would be helpful for a road car as most of the transfer gears are relatively low. Collotti shows a helical racing gear set on their site but I don't know if they have actually made any of these. I think some or all of the gearbox parts have been reproduced and I could ask Thomas Popper about that. I don't think it was Collotti though. I think it was the original manufacture. You would also need the deeper transfer gear cover. The rest of the gear box case was the same as the Dino E Series. Popper said he heard the Collotti straight cut gear sets were much better than the original factory sets but I would imagine they would still be quite loud.
Here is the five speed listing by Colotti: http://www.colotti.com/index.php/catalight/view/v56c76a3fe/t-459
Thanks. What I’m hoping for is actual experience and feedback with the gearbox upgrades. My gearbox actually works and shifts pretty well but there’s so much to learn on what performance upgrades were done to the Stratos in competition. Some great Dino/Stratos sounds!
The racing gearbox uses dog rings instead of synchronizers so you can shift faster. When Sandro Munari was testing my car his shifts were smooth as butter. The dream for me on a Dino would be to have two of three different transfer gear ratios as you don't need a 140mph+ top speed in the real world. The racing gearbox is close-ratio and for the street would be overkill in my opinion.
Thank you. Do you still have the Euro Dino with the 252hp motor? What carbs did you use? Stock DCNF’s? What were the engine upgrades?
no personal experiences with a dino but have you ever driven a dog ring crash box? its racy but probably the last thing you want in a road car of that vintage...
I’ve driven a Lola Sports 2000 with a Hewland gearbox. I was having way too much fun to notice any noise! There must be some road performance developments for the Dino gearbox.
besides the noise u didnt notice how clunky they are when you arent slam shifting it at upper end of the powerband? im no expert but ive driven a half dozen sport racers and formula cars with them both h-pattern and sequential type besides the sequential dog box in my current race car. why would anyone want dog gear shunts want in pretty sounding dino that i wouldnt be racing and just putting around at a C&C parking lot? there is a very good reason even with the upper echelons of the sports car why they didnt come with dog clutches and straight cut boxes.
I drive my Dino the way I drive my other sports cars. It has to function well on all roads and temperatures but especially in the twisties and just sitting in hot stop and go traffic. My main question is not about dog clutches or straight cut gears. Like on an early 911, I just want to know what’s possible with gearbox improvements. As I mentioned, my gearbox works really well but, like an early 911, there’s a huge difference when you shift one with updates.
gotcha...my mistake. i suppose you can always get a series 1 e-type flatbottom with a dog box if you ever want to see what its like to live with one on the road. thats if can find one with the original non synchro gearbox still in the car. happy motoring!
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Here’s an update on my Stratos induction. I just received a set of air horn filters from Eurocarb in the UK https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellorto-car-carburettors-parts/parts/drla-parts/g40-stainless-steel-trumpet-gauze-filters-dellorto-dhla-40-drla40-weber-dcoe-40-solex/ Once in a while I enjoy seeing the motor without the larger filter assembly and show off the IDF carbs. These filters fit really snug, precise and are perfect sized to the air horns. I experimented earlier with a set of BBR filters from Pierce Manifold (see images with them in the foreground). These didn’t fit snug enough around the air horns. If anyone needs 6, let me know! The Eurocarb ones I think give a period correct look. Clearance under the stock deck is also good. Freeman
Image Unavailable, Please Login I think there’s adequate filtration. They have a micro filter built in to the assembly. Sound is about the same.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login No, the same as the custom air box we created.
Hi guys what a great thread. I’ve re read it several times. @freeman, do you have any further updates? How about some video? Love it.
Personally, modifying the hood is easy in house operation, but not an attractive option, as altering the lines that are already perfect. After all, 99% od Dino run stock, and not many complaints. I would think that a higher compression, much better porting, larger valves, slightly warmer cams, better ignition and the usual mods that are really universal to transfer what is basically a high performance motor into a higher output one is eminently doable. Typical hot rodder stuff. Now, the Stratos 3 carb setup is almost plug and play, and much lower cost. All a matter of what makes you happy(er). Every motor I rebuild, I breath upon, as anyhow a lot of internals need replacing, so costs do not become unbearable. All engines can benefit from a few more vitamins. Regards, Alberto
PS. Or, coulda had a V8, and store the V6. No harm no foul. Anyhow the alternate motor makes a lovely display. I have a 328QV lurking, sinful, I know
As it was a complete bolt in - bolt out totally reversible exercise, I returned the induction back to completely stock. It was a great exercise to experience the different induction systems. With the air box we created, it completely fit under a stock Dino engine lid. The difference in every day driving was similar. The Stratos system had no hesitation on high G turns. The Dino system could be compensated with just a bit of throttle. We had a lot of fun doing it. If I was to go through the exercise again, I would investigate in the programmable DCNF throttle body injection system using the stock air box.
or buy a small track day car and enjoy the experience even more and leave the 40+ year old lady to grow older gracefully Tony
I had a blocked idle jet on the the Stratos system. It required removing the carbs to access the jets since they’re placed so close together. While I had it removed I reinstalled the stock assembly which was straightforward and only took about 15-20 minutes. I took it for a drive and noticed how similar the stock system performed to the Stratos system. I opted to keep it stock.