1979 Ferrari 308 Gearbox Issue

Unless you really want a new/used case I'd say just weld up the diff cover and clean up the puncture hole in the case. The damage you have to the case will not cause any running issues, I've seen far worse. You'll need to save the money for the seized bearings and possible baulk(synchro) rings. Alternatively you could buy an entire used gearbox, however with that you never know what you're getting. You've stripped down your's and it's only measuring now that will tell you what needs replacing. The 308 WSM covers the gearbox specs.

 

If it aids your comfort level, Sparky308, allows others to toot smg2's horn for him. He's one of the last remaining Ferrari professionals that still posts here, after several high-profile techs were driven away by the "noise" and DIYer second-guessing by others here. He's the engine builder for Nick's Forza, which is a top flight aftermarket tuning and supply company (that actually specializes in 308s), and an engineer who designs and computer models sophisticated performance parts for these motors. If he thinks it's salvageable, find an aluminum welding specialist and save your money for synchros and the seized bearing.

 

Ok, I'm gonna look for a welder.

My next question is is this hub and gear look ok ? To engage and disengage it's getting a little stuck each time. Moreover this one looks different than the other hubs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

hard to say from pics, honestly get your hands on a WSM and check all the specs. fully strip down the synchro rings/sleeves and pins and springs and clean out all the built up gunk. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

what's the condition of the diff carrier housing that holds the clutches?

 

Haven't reached that far. Will start on that tomorrow.

 

Sparky (sorry if that's not your real name) - I just checked and I have digital copies of the workshop manual. There was a GT4 manual and a 308 Qv/328 manual, but not a specific GTB/S manual. You have to cherry pick the applicable specs from the duo. At any rate, message me your email and I'll forward them (two 10MB attachments).

 

Not dry sump though

 

I think you can weld it and you don't need a new case: just make smooth and polish the interior damaged zones and the welded part.

Maybe I still have a boken diff gears here (one tooth missing), that comes for free, if you need it

And buy a sychro for the fourth gear (and second gear too, better doing it now)

ciao

 

Good luck, but I would be looking for a complete used unit. If you start replacing a bunch of parts costs can easily go beyond making sense. IMO, the one you posted (from PA) is from a person know to ask 2x the value of anything he sells. Check the breakers and if you have time you will find something. Then you can offset your cost by selling what was still good on yours.

 

Sparky 308
I owe you a huge apology. Assumed from the first few pictures we were being punked once again, and we all know what happens when you assume. I should know by now to stay quiet, but you know what they say, go big or go home. Can't make much bigger ass of myself then I have in your thread.
Hope you get your 308 up and running shortly. Again my apologies. Kim

 

I would like to offer my apologies as well, as I also thought it was a troll thread.

Mea culpa.

 

Hey Guys,

No neeed for that at all. The 308 is a car I'm doing up for someone. Hope to own it someday

Will keep everyone posted

Cheers

 

Good work my man, and to those helping.....lots of beating around in there, but most of your components look reusable?

If we need some differential bolts, let's make some..
Houston we have a problem...

Call FerrParts first as a whole new box will be less than "one piece at a time".
Congrats on finding it, even if it's bad.

That's what this site is about.....

 

I noted that one bad gouge.....:/

 

FerrParts in California is a wrecking yard
GT Car Parts in Arizona
TRutlands in Georgia

And some wankers on a radio show are getting ready to hold a demolition derby using 308GTs.....so there will be five or six from that event.

 

Because all the bolts had not failed, Ferrari TRs just dynamite one day for no reason!

Your gear stacks themselves look great.
Dodged bullet.

 

I am not clear on why he would need a whole box.

Unless I have missed something, one crownwheel bolt came unscrewed and gouged into the casing (repairable) then fell out but luckily dropped to the bottom. Was there any other damage?

 

Your science is tight....when he started asking about the entire case, is when the suggestion of a used one in comparison to "new parts" was offered, IMO.

 

I would clean off all the built up aluminium particles, reassemble and check for play (and gaps with a feeler gauge.) 2nd and 3rd synchros usually need replacing and drill the 1st selector rod blind hole while in there. I have a brass 4th synchro that should work (from a ZF S5-18/3) and know where there are some iron 2nd-3rd synchros for €200. I have a list of the bearing suppliers in case any of yours are bad. Good luck! Cudos to Scott for calling this one early on

 

Is the 1978 and 1979 gear box the same ? And if anyone knows if they are the same from 1977 to 1985 ?

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depends on region, i.e USA, CH Germany, UK etc.. and model, so short answer no they are not all the same from 77' to 85'. Gear ratios vary and later gearboxes have the internal pump. Don't have my notes handy but if you spend some time going thru the WSM's of the GT4, 308 and 328 and again the Mondial and it's iterations before the T you can find the variations. Physically/dimensionaly the boxes are the same, though the early yrs use a different location and mount for the spedo drive. It was a gear drive, the later yrs used a reluctor sensor.

 

Exactly; they differ from market to market (usually, as said: Standard Continental Europe; then USA, Japan, Australia ; then Swiss) and from version to version: carbed / 2-valve injected / four valve injected / 328.
This for the gear ratios, final drive, etc.
Each box has a serial number, and a type number, indicating their position in the serie for a specific market.
This is "3710F106MB" on the gearbox of #80515, my February '89 328 GTS, Standard continental euro version. Seen from the passenger's side (right for us european), the numbers are at the very end of the gearbox. The metal plate behind it is the exhaust shroud.
Image Unavailable, Please Login F106MB meaning "euro, standard continental"; 3710 is the 3710th box of this type.
From memory, on USA 328, the box is F105 (??). You get the idea.

Rgds

 

Thank you. ...that's good to know, I know a person who has a gearbox out of a 1978 and wants to sell so I was think of picking it up but being mine is an 1984 it more then likely will not work cause of the different gear ratios and final drive ratio.

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There are publications when you can get an idea, for instance, there are some tables in Keith Bluemel's book...but you really have to check very carefully: the best thing to do is to go to the corresponding page of the WSM manual, as said by SMG2 above, in a preceeding post.
I emphasize the fact that I have no technical competence whatsoever, but to give you an idea of the extent of the question, I seem to recall, out of my memory and at the drop of my hat, that on Euro carbed cars, the gear ratios are even different between GTBs and GTSs: the 5th pinion has 29 teeth on GTBs, and 28 on GTSs (??). So care must be taken indeed. Do your homework before, don't buy a "pig in a poke": it might work (??)...or not! Image Unavailable, Please Login
To illustrate, the table on page E7 of the 308QVs/328 WSM hereunder: (post scriptum: US gearboxes on 328 are type F108...)