Is there less clutch wear in RACE mode (F430)?
I haven't had the chance to try an F1 transmission... but from what I can now conclude here.. whether sitting at standstill in Neutral or 1st, is the equivalent of sitting in a Manual car with the clutch pedal depressed regardless if stick is in N or 1st.. obviously with the liberty of a manual car, sitting with the clutch pedal down with stick in 1st is not ideal.. but with the design of F1 trans... there seems to be no way around it.. now that I understand this properly .. no wonder why F1 pumps/motors fail, over heat etc.. sitting at stops, traffic, just letting your car idle to warm up, means the F1 pump/motor is always at full pressure to keep the clutch open.. and if im correct.. is why the pump has to prime at the beginning, because the pump has to keep the clutch open immediately on start up.. even though its in N.
Since we're having this discussion. When I bought the car I was told by the dealer, and the manual kind of implies, that this is a manual transmission with an automatic clutch with limited "protections". In other words you can shift to 2nd at 100 and that bump you feel might be the transmission you just left on the road but the car will do as told. I'm always careful even when being spirited but once I finally got to attempt to row through the gears at redline. When I got to third I was a hint late at redline but the car shifted for me. Up to that point I thought the car would've let me over rev the engine but apparently not at least while up shifting. So is the quickest and recommended way to warp 5 letting the car shift, or you shift or both (I'm not talking about launch mode or whatever it is)? Also, besides the items mentioned already, what other automated "things" will F1 do and not do? Another also, I've smelled that expensive hot clutch smell a few times while being spirited but was shocked at how little wear I've incurred so far. Is it good to let it cool off or does it matter?
The pump doesn’t need to run just because the clutch is depressed. It will just stay there without any added pump pressure unless you have a leak in the system. If you have a leak, you have a bigger problem and will know right away. That is another part of what was wrong in the other post. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
The Transmission will auto shift before redline if in normal mode. It will bounce off the rev limiter when in sport or race mode, no auto shift. It will keep you from downshifting if you can’t get enough rpm for the gear-speed. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat
Interesting discussion and thanks. I've always been wary of messing around with shifting for fear of hurting the system. I can see I was mis informed a little as far as down shifts are concerned. Bouncing off the rev limiter.....hmmm.
This is where getting to know your car is so important. In all my cars, once I get attuned to them I get tuned into the engine and the sound it makes at red line (or at the shift point the dyno has proven to be the best shift point where the engine stops making power). I've had my 360 for only a few months but have a scheduled visit to put it on the chassis dyno. Surprisingly, I find I seldom rely on the tach for shifting. I get to know the sound of the engine and time to shift. Sounds hokie but it's true. Surprised me too when I found I almost stop consulting the tach at every shift preferring to keep my eyes on the road or track. Downshifts the same. I generally feel when I'm in the range for a necessary lower gear and when I choose it I'm where I want to be rev-wise. The 360 seems to have a lot of torque so sometimes a little challenging to decide on the torque or a downshift. I'm working on it. Drive the car alone. Drive it often. And tune into the machine. Get comfortable with the car. Takes time but well worth it. For me that's what it's all about.
This is really interesting debate about should one put it N or not. One question tho: IF it doesn't give any benefit to put the car N could someone then elaborate why does the F1 system automatically go from 1st to N (and beep to the driver) when the car is stationary for longer than something like 30 sec with 1st engaged? Why has Ferrari designed / coded such a feature in the TCU of F1 system in 360 then? At least my (European) 360 with latest "non CS" TCU does that.
Billy-It is actually about 10 minutes before going to neutral as long as the brake pedal is depressed and mere seconds if the brake pedal is not depressed. I think the reason it does that is when in gear and stopped, the system is kind of spring loaded to get going, sort of like a clock going into warn before striking. So the system is saying "let's go, let's go" the entire time you are stopped in 1st gear. In neutral, the system relaxes (so to speak) because it knows you have to do something else before she will move. Daveyator- There are safety features built into the F1 system that will not let you downshift in any mode if the resulting revs will exceed redline/fuel cut-off. No need to worry about accidentally asking for 2nd at 100 mph because the system will not allow that. They tried to make it idiot proof. This is the 10th year for me driving my F1 system, and I have actually demonstrated to myself how all this works. Easy to demonstrate the clutch is open when stopped in neutral, but it takes an SD2 or equivalent to see it.
In my car, it doesn’t drive smoothly unless the PIS is adjusted low enough that the clutch grabs even with no throttle applied. For this reason, it is imperative to stay in N at a stop to prevent clutch wear. Probably true of more than just my car.
There are so many reasons this is a really bad idea. No the least of which is the damage to syncros and gears when slamming between gears with the clutch only partially disengaged. A new gearbox will dwarf the cost of a correct PIS adjustment. Then there are the inconvenience issues like can't select R or car won't go into 1st.
Hmm. Well the alternative was clutch slipping too much, and lots of RPM surging during shifts. I can still get it into reverse and 1st when fully hot. It shifts perfectly smooth with this setting, much better than otherwise, not "slamming". Not sure what else to say.
The trick is to get to where the clutch is just barely not touching the flywheel. A good tech can do this by adjusting PIS while checking for movement of the output shaft. Too low and the shaft moves. Just right and it does not.
