Thanks Eddie. We have the colors down. The signal red as shown with biscuit is final. Chrome wires on redline rubber too. We spoke of covered headlights but I am sticking with series II trim. I like them loud so straight pipes to small do nothing mufflers in the back. Factory A/C will stay with everything redone to high-line driver status. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I always advocate choosing the colors and options you like - value be damned. But just to be clear, don't let anyone fool you into thinking redlines are in any way "original". According to JCNA judging guides, no E was ever delivered on redlines. I will also attempt to confirm this with other books I have at home.... Looks like a great project - enjoy! gp
Yeah but I gotta have redlines right? The car was originally creme & black... So with my Signal Red & Biscuit choice I think the redlines will fit right in. I will favor the 5 inch original wire wheels though... With winged knockoffs Vs octagon. Fun spec!
Update: Full interior all done. Ended up at about $7500 for that... Including top. Plenty of other things happening ~ including removing the body from my chassis buck & placing it on one of theirs (better positioning on theirs that they are more use to). So now they fit the new bonnet to the body & then final paint. After that its just reassembly from there. I may get some current pix shortly.
Do your self a favor, get the GM 1 wire alternater.....simple clean, look original but eliminates all the headaches. Good luck! GTJOEY1314
Hi, Sorry, but I don't get this. Of course I have needed to replace brushes and bearings over the years (on the XJ6C the alternator and bearing were over 30 years old) and the BUTEC in the V12 OTS had a collector rind soldering that gave up when it was 42 years old, but other than that I have never had any trouble with any of the Lucas alternators in my Jaguars (in over 20 years) 11 ACR, 18 ACR and 20 ACR. Don't fix it if it ain't broken. Cheers, Pekka T. Fin.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Just friendly advice from a guy who's put hundreds of thousands of miles on etypes You'll see
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login That's skinny gtjoey and no grey hair 30 years ago or so New York to indy500 annual drive then downtown Daytona every year! That was my series two coupe My series 1 looks bone stock but all upgrades Wonderful cars! Enjoy Gtjoey1314
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Hi, Oh well, there may have been a time when it was easier for you guys in the states to get that GM alternator than Lucas brushes or diode bridge or some other part, but over here it just does not make much sense. The two things I mentioned have been the only attention the mentioned Lucas alternators have needed in my cars. I too have done a few miles, but not yet quite 100.000 miles, but getting close. (Over 150.000 km) and I like to keep my cars 100% as they left the factory on Browns Lane. Or actually the MKV DHC was made on Holbrook Lane, Foleshill, Coventry and not at Browns Lane, but it does not have an alternator so it does not matter here. There are often other electrical problems in old cars where the alternator or fuel pump get the blame, the most typical ones being bad earth connections for the engine, for the charging relay, for the gauges or the fuel pump. The OP has a Series 2 car, so not relevant, but I have seen so many fuel pumps replaced in V12 E's where the only real problem was the earth connection. Very few people seem to know where the earth wire to the fuel pump is mounted to the body. Yes, it is in a very difficult place, but not impossible, and after 40 years there can be corrosion on the flange of the inner rear wheel arch. Cheers, Pekka T. Fin.
I still love that xj6c, your lucky in the states , we needed the crash rubber bumpers, making it look completely different. Enjoy my friend. GTJOEY1314
Image Unavailable, Please Login Hi guys, Thanks, appreciate all the feedback, and love that Willow Green FHC you had, gtjoey. Here's my 1st car, bought in boxes, almost finished in 1997, 20 years ago... Cheers, Pekka T. Fin.
Its not a lot of momentum... But its something. The interior & top are all ready, looks superb. Front frame members painted to match. I had thought the bonnet was / would be painted but not yet. Promised further completion in coming months. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
michael can you post a close up photo of the diamond pattern on the seats? what seat supplier did you use? thanks
Sure! I do not have a more detailed photo yet, but the supplier is a well known expert that you can connect with here: http://www.osji.com/Index/index.php
Ahhh, Gary's good old company from Muncie, Indiana. They're good, and so is BAS, mostly. Previously some interior colors were NLA, like Connolly Red, in the right tone, but there was enough demand, so for slightly higher price even that is available per original spec.
Continuing the saga... 35 hours to straighten the previously completed rockers ~ as they did not fit the new bonnet. Then once they fit the bonnet... The rockers did not fit the doors any longer. Not to mention that the trunk lid was not properly fitted prior to painting (some 15 years ago). So... Now into the little bit buying phase / picking up small items like emblems & lights. Then assemble the suspension so all this can roll.
Hey I have pics! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Look at my sexy baby. To think I thought the body work was straight!
Thanks doc. F1 schedule is problematic with my pending shop property purchase & location move. But I will be there in spirt!
Image Unavailable, Please Login More stuff unfolding! New $1100 per gallon paint is next. Image Unavailable, Please Login
