High pitched whistle on start up coming from left rear | Page 2 | FerrariChat

High pitched whistle on start up coming from left rear

Discussion in '360/430' started by BladeMD, Sep 10, 2016.

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  1. ferralc

    ferralc Formula 3
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    Fernando
    #26 ferralc, Dec 9, 2016


    And the high pitch noise is different?


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  2. BladeMD

    BladeMD Formula 3
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    Hannibal
    #27 BladeMD, Dec 9, 2016
    Well yea it's different, but still like a loud vacuum cleaner, but I did not reattach the hose yet, so I assumed it would be different :)

    Really need some guidance on if the hose clamps can be reused with a special tool, or do I need to get some old school ones from Napa....
     
  3. ferralc

    ferralc Formula 3
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    #28 ferralc, Dec 9, 2016


    When you find out about the hose clamps if the sound is different we would know if the high pitch noise is a
    symptom that the pump is about to fail.
    Good luck


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  4. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
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    #29 vrsurgeon, Dec 9, 2016
    Go to boat store, get stainless clamps and be done with it. :)
     
  5. Need4Spd

    Need4Spd F1 Veteran

    Feb 24, 2007
    6,645
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    #30 Need4Spd, Dec 9, 2016


    ^ This. I've never found it possible to re-tighten the clamps in your pic with any degree of success. I treat them as "use once" clamps.
     
  6. BladeMD

    BladeMD Formula 3
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    #31 BladeMD, Dec 10, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    That high pitched noise is MUCH quieter now after getting everything put back together. I would say that he high pitches noise indeed is likely a sign of pump failure. I got about 500 miles on it after that noise started though.


    CEL is gone now and OBD reader shows no codes. Unfortunately, this is what it looks like outside, so the ECU reset will have to wait until spring or a lucky few days of thaw (which rarely happens once the snow is here).
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  7. Speedracer800

    Speedracer800 Formula Junior

    Jan 16, 2013
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    #32 Speedracer800, Dec 10, 2016
    Hey Blade,

    They make a special crimp tool for those clamps.. You could also use a regular screw type hose clamp of course. I just picked up these since getting my 360 as I've run into the same problem you're having with those clamps. I also picked up a kit of these clamps on Amazon with a good selection of assorted sizes.. Really cheap.

    Thanks for posting this thread.. I think I have the same problem with my pump as I keep getting those codes.. This info will be a huge help.

    Ideal-Tridon 61001V Crimp Clamp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UL4ALS/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_qrltyb4MX7MV2
     
  8. BladeMD

    BladeMD Formula 3
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    #33 BladeMD, Dec 11, 2016

    Great stuff, thanks! I ended up getting perforated screw clamps from NAPA which did the job, but I think I'll get some of these too if I want to go back to an Oem look.

    My recommendations for a DIY would be to follow this order:

    1. Remove the tail light first (after disconnecting power)
    2. Having a short and long *pivoting* ratchet with an extender for your 10mm socket will make this a lot easier
    3. Take out the 10mm bolts holding the heat shield which also go through two of the three bolts holding brass braket of the pump. Finish removing heat shield.
    4. Pry off the end cap of the pump and you can get to the two leads to test voltage so that you know if it's the pump or something to do with relay or elsewhere electrically....assuming it's the pump that's dead, proceed with replacement.
    5. Disconnect right angle hose from pump
    6. Get the third 10mm bolt off bracket which is underneath pump (hardest part of the job). Here is where the pivoting ratchet with an extender is essential. Pump and bracket can now be removed and replaced.
    7. As noted, the hose clamps are one n done pieces. I got a pair of perforated screw clamps for $2.11 at NAPA.

    I noted a much more subtle high pitched whistle on start up compared to the past few months with the new pump in place.
     
  9. cavlino

    cavlino Formula 3
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    #34 cavlino, Dec 11, 2016
    ^Nice summary of steps required.
     
  10. daveyator

    daveyator Formula Junior

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    #35 daveyator, Oct 17, 2017
    I'm resurrecting this thread because I have a CEL which is P0411 that results from the smog driving procedure. Secondary air injection. This came up because I went to smog my car (No CEL) and got the "not ready". Was told to do that driving "procedure" which I did which turned on the CEL. Went to shop and had the code cleared. Still shows not ready (no CEL and no codes) so did driving procedure again which promptly turned on the CEL again. I do know that fan is part of the system so on the cold starts I literally put my hand on the fan and I can definitely feel it run for oh 30 sec or so then shut off. It doesn't make a whole lot of noise. My car has had no CEL for almost 3 years and was just in for major service and now this. Is there any part of the Secondary Air system that is disassembled during a major? I did visit the car during service and noticed the exhaust had been removed at least to the cats and my cam seals were re done along with belts, tensioners, etc.
     
  11. mello

    mello F1 Veteran
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    #36 mello, Oct 17, 2017
    Sounds like they accidentally disconnected the air solenoid hoses or didn't reconnect them while working on your exhaust. I would bring it back and have them double-check their work.
     
  12. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

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    #37 mike32, Oct 18, 2017
    Just buy a standard hose clip in stainless and keep it simple
     
  13. daveyator

    daveyator Formula Junior

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    #38 daveyator, Oct 18, 2017
    Thanks guys. I don't suppose you know if they're located under the left side engine bay panels? I removed the small one to check the pump.
     
  14. daveyator

    daveyator Formula Junior

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    #39 daveyator, Nov 30, 2017
    Just adding to this if anyone is interested. My car turned out to have a "loose" fuse on the board that controls the the evap air pump. That was throwing a CEL and making the car un smogable. Not sure if related to this but thought worth a mention.
     
  15. KC360 FL

    KC360 FL Formula 3

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    #40 KC360 FL, Dec 1, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
    to my understanding these clamps are intended to be a one time use kind of thing. I have reused them though. But yes, there is a tool for them. Try Snap on, Matco, etc. I have found some pretty hard to find tools with the Matco guy. Maybe others here have a way, but I have never been able to make them work again (satisfactorily) with only the usual tools in my roll around box.

    Plus a lot of "less expensive" cars use these type clamps. You may want to source them from some place other than the Ferrari dealer ($$$)
     
  16. BladeMD

    BladeMD Formula 3
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    #41 BladeMD, Dec 1, 2017

    I've been off Fchat the last couple months, so I'm sorry I missed this.

    From what I understand of the secondary air system, it shouldn't be messed with on a belt change but I would defer to those with more expertise than I have.

    CHeck out the graphic above of the parts in the system and you can see there are several areas that could fail, such as a dent or damage to the pipes that connect to the headers or anything between.

    Also, be sure that it's not the pump that failed by checking the voltage at the pump as I detailed above. I wouldn't trust going by sound as it makes no odd sound AFTER the pump fails.... and although mine failed slowly and made "loud vacuum cleaner" sounds, I wouldn't presume they all do this.

    Hope u find rapid remedy for your CEL!
     
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