348T Engine out with Pictures and Procedures

Mitchell, nice to see your man cave. Bravo with that project, I would not attempt it. Do you ever sleep?

 

This is the man cave from the outside looking in,

And from the inside looking out.

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Mitchell Le is an amazing asset to the Ferrari community here in the Bay Area. We are all very fortunate for him.

 

+1

 

Small update, only because it is relevant. This car had a timing belt lock-and-swap job a few years ago with the engine in, by removing the gas tank. It is very likely that many items were not tended to such as the cam timing. Three of four cams were 9 degrees off, one was 3 degrees off. For those of you who believe that lock-and-swap is the way to go, don't. Valve adjustment was also not done at that time. Half of them are now too tight.

Really, you need to take the engine out for a major service, or it is not a major service.

 

Thanks a million for taking the time to post this, I'll be doing ours in 2018. Our lift is positioned similar to yours. Did you drop the drivetrain in the driveway, and if so did the garage door limit the height you needed to slide the engine out from underneath? How did you get the car back centered on the lift? Also, I was thinking about making an engine stand so I can inspect the transmission and work more comfortably. Do you think it would be practical to lift the subframe assembly once it's out with a typical engine hoist in order to put it on a stand?

 

Yes, I dropped the engine on the driveway, which like many driveways slopes down a few degrees for drainage. The garage door did not add any limitation. Once the engine is away from the car, the body only needs to go up about 24 inches to have enough room for the sub-frame to roll back and out. It took 2 persons to push the engine up the incline into the garage. Don't do this alone. It is not recommended.

To get the car back over the lift again, you find a large furniture moving dolly, and stack enough 4x4 on it to support the weight of the engine-less car, under the body (just north of the fuel tank) and push it back over the lift.

Once it is in the garage, I used two jacks to jack the engine up and placed jack stands under the subframe. I find that it is comfortable enough for me to work with the engine at that height. You can always build a table, but I have no more storage space inside so the table would sit out side rusting away when not used. If you did have a table, you would need to use an engine hoist to lift the subframe onto the table and off from the table. Another series of steps I did not care to take.

 

Hey Mitchell,

A real man cave has meat hanging in it. At least in TX. I know you guys in CA only eat vegan ... Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I have a man cave, I am not a caveman.

 

Thanks, excellent information. My driveway slopes slightly then becomes a ski slope so I will definitely have help. How did your engine mounts look? Mine are weeping oil and I feel like there is excessive driveline lash. I'm thinking of modifying off the shelf stuff. I wonder if I really need fluid filled mounts? Did you do the water pump? Even doing this myself I'm afraid it is going to be very expensive. What other extras did you do?

 

Holy Effing Crap. Talk about deferred maintenance. This stuff came out of the fuel filters.



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Nasty, I'll bet that came from the rubber fuel pump insulators. I'm expecting to replace mine next year also.

 

Don't forget the right and left rear antilock brake sensor connectors they are a round quarter turn lock connector. Located under the right and left upper engine compartment frame rail. Don't ask me how I know.

 

Engine going back in. It is 37 degrees F this morning. Where did this weather come from?

Before:

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After:

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Looks Great!, did you paint the cam covers?

 

There is one thing sexier than a Ferrari and that's a freshly-serviced Ferrari engine all cleaned up and ready to go back into the car. Nice job Mitchell!

 

Yes, VHT red wrinkle paint after stripping the old yukky paint off.

 

Let me close out this thread by adding two final details:

1. There is a 1 inch wide, round connector, 9 pins, at the lop left handside of the subframe above the carbon canister that has the instrument signals. This connector has to be disconnected before engine comes out.
2. Total removal of one shock from the car allows both removal and installation of the engine to be easily aligned at the shock towers. Leave it in at your own risk.

 

This is a great thread - will be doing the same in November. I have an '89 T Coupe and it doesn't have the access panel to the engine compartment behind the rear seats, but the junction block is mounted on the bulkhead and appears accessible. I also wondered of the muffler can be left on, looks like it would clear everything

 

This is the best!