New lift and of course a project.

Haven't really be on here other than quick peeks as to what ithers are doing. I have been traveling extensively for work and have not really any time to devote to the fuse board issues, ( will PM you soon Guido) and now replacing CV boots. Last rime i drove the car, about 2.5 month's ago i heard what i thought was something metal bounce up into the wheel well. Quickly pulled over and checked to see if something catastrophic bad occurred. Did not immediately see anything, but turned around and went home.

Next morning i found that the allen bolts and locking screws were missing or in varous states of be dislodged. Never seen this before. So as i have only had this car since May and maybe put around 500 or so miles on the car, i am chalking it up to previous wrench not applying the correct torque cir these bolts.

In comes the lift.

I jacked the car up and put in jack stands to see how bad issue was, but became very leary of jacking ea h side so high in the garage. Just didnt feel safe, so after some internet sloothing doind the quick Jack hydrologic scissor lift at Pelican parts.

Take a look and has anyone seen the boot and jacket come apart like this? Getting some parts ordered tonight. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Nice lift, I need to invest in one too

I agree the bolts look like they have not been torqued / installed correctly, even some thread lock wouldn't go a miss...

 

It seems you lost the CV boot clamps as well . Better have the things fixed to prevent damage to the CV Axle. I envy those lifts saw it also from Pelican Parts . Wish I can order one but it would be very expensive to ship to my country .

 

Wow, that's could have been a very big problem if more bolts came off! One is supposed to use new locking nuts, I suspect someone did a CV boot change and used the original lock nuts. They are really designed as one use items, kind of like eg. a typical large axle nut would be. The new nuts are not cheap, but when I did my CV boots, I got the new ones. Also used Locktite Blue 243 (not 242, the 243 can handle some grease which will inevitably get on the threads from all the grease in the CV joint when you reinstall) for greater certainty, these things are torqued high for a reason.

Fyi, the original style boot clamps are available from Superformance. They are pretty easy to install with no special tool (I did a thread and made a clamping tool to get it good and snug). The other clamps that typically come with a CV boot kit and are used in most cars work but you need the Oetker clamp tool and need to be careful where you clamp so the clamp ear remaining on the Oetker style does not get in the way of the bolts when you reinstall.

Love that lift, time for me to get one too!

 

Which quick jack model fit the Mondial? I am in Canada, they have a dealer up here, but would be curious of the cost in the US if you can share that, thanks.

 

It happens on all cars. The CV bolts not torqued correctly and they back out to the point where they fall off then the car won't move anymore. No big harm done, just clean it up, and get new bolts. You might need to pull the axle shaft to put the metal clamp back on.

 

Moysiuan, i purchased the 5000lb lift. It justs fits the lift points. I will take some specific photos to show what i mean. There are some youtube reviews too on the lift in general. I also sprung for the extra 4" height extenders. Whats nice is that with this lift, i can set up my jack stands, add the height extenders and potentially get to drop engine if needed. Added benefit is that while lifted, its easier to work on the interior and bssic body cleaning/waxing.

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Thank you, I am very interested in learning more about that lift. Looks like solution for my maintenance tasks which I enjoy but tend to wish for a more resilient back when hunched in a wheel well. Would be great to confirm the height would be sufficient for an engine out, some day I would expect to need that capability, I am a Mondial fan for life.

 

hi, Donnie,
Nice Quiklift you have there. Is it working with oil pressure and the oil pump on electricity ?

The rubber of that boot is split in 2....1 part did stay under the clamp. So you have to remove that complete part to get a new boot over the axle.
Boots you can have in a universal style in a normal car part shop. You have to cut the outher ring in the right size. No big deal...or use those from superformance or Porsche have them to.
No problem for helping you with the electric problems !
Guido

 

Is your 5000 lb model the BL-5000SLX or BL-5000EXT, I think the length of the unit being the only difference?

 

I went with the SLX. I measured the lift points and deemed this ok.

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Great, thank you.

 

I have seen this before twice and it happens more often then you might think. Usually it is one bolt that comes off with the same effect. In all cases that I have seen the bolts and nuts have not been replaced with new ones when the sleeve or CV joint was repaired. These are one time use only and once taken apart you will need to put in new.

Nice lift! I have a similar for safety reasons as well and for the ease of use

 

I'm hesitant to turn this thread into a lift discussion, but I wonder if the EBL-5000EXT would be too long? My wife has a mercedes, and would be nice to be able to use it for more than one application ;-)

Anyone know of any other lifts like this to consider?

 

Thanks for the advise.

 

Well, I did start the discussion with "New Lift". It occurred to me when I had the car lifted, that it was easier to work on the interior of the car and the fuse board. Not to mention cleaning and waxing too.

 

Guido, It uses ATF fluid and plugs into my 110 outlet. All of the hoses are quick connects and each lift has small castors on one end. They are portable so that i can store them vertical if I want. You cannot drive on them. You have to slide them into position, which is somewhat of a pain.

I do have the new boots and clamps. I had purchased a few months ago when I saw that it had slipped a little. Just didn't expect the catastrophic failure after 50-100 miles.

 

"Just didn't expect the catastrophic failure after 50-100 miles"

It 'snt that catastrophic....luckely the axle did not come off and slammed around. That would be catastrophic !
I see the lift has an option for 12V power...also intresting. Direct from you cars battery.
Guido

 

Ok, after a ridiculous amount of work travel and the Christmas holiday here in the states I decided to brace the below freezing temps and get working on replacing the cv boots on drivers rear. Of course I had no problems removing the bolts on the differential side and started the process of loosening the bolts on the suspension side. I had sprayed some of the PB blaster on the bolts and locking nuts a few weeks ago, so they should be good to go right? 4 bolts loosened right up, but two were becoming very difficult. After shining a light on the matter, it appears that the bolts were stripped on the drive side sometime ago and had some metal welded to the inside. Needless to say i can get no pressure to break the bolt apart. Photo attached below. So is there another way? Another issue is the half moon washer on the drivetrain side was sheared off. Is there a part number? FYI, i followed Birdmans procedure and something stuck out in regards the ridges in the shaft. Mine were on the transaxle side, not the drivetrain side. Weird.

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated.

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Heya Donnie -

Ex-cinci guy here. Weird. Anyhoo. I just completed a full CV + boot job on my 308QV a couple weeks ago - I think your car is the same parts & design, so here's some tips:

- If you are already doing the driver's side (and have parts for the passenger side already), go ahead and do the passenger side too. This is a really messy job, so just do it all at once.

- First, replace those bolts that have been welded to "repair". Someone did a crappy hack job, so go ahead and undo their "fix". I believe they are 77mm (double-check this yourself!), and you probably won't find them at Lowe's. I didn't, anyway. Do some forum searching, you'll find the exact specs.

- The purpose of the half-moons is basically acting as a washer. You do NOT need to replace those with unicorn rare replacements. You can use an appropriate standard washer, which will work fine.

- Note the the driver's side will have a standard washer + the moons. This is crucial: you MUST retain that amount of spacing, otherwise your CV bolts will hit the case bolts and not rotate. So, moon + washer (as stock), or 2 washers.

- It's easy to put the new boots on the flange before you reattach the flange to the CV joint. It's a ***** to get them on AFTER you have the flange reattached. So do it before.

- Be careful pulling the race off the axle. You can break it if too much pressure is applied incorrectly.

- If you break it, don't buy the Ferrari replacement for $890. Same part is used on a Porsche, and it's $69 from AutoHaus.

- Hate to say "while you're in there" - but - while you're there, consider replacing the transaxle seals since you're already pulling the joints off. Call David at Ferrari Bedord (fluentinferrari.com) and he'll set you up with some great ones. You'll probably need an impact driver to get the bolts out.

- Do NOT use anything but a proper Oetiker clamp tool to tighten your clamps. People will say that wire nippers or similar are fine. They are very wrong. The proper tool is about $25 on Amazon. Buy the correct tool. Trust me on this.

- Use the clamps you have. Don't use zip ties or hose clamps.

- Triple check you have EVERYTHING mounted on the axles - in the correct order - before you a) put the gears back on the axles and b) tighten the clamps. Then check one more time.

- Torque EVERYTHING to spec when re-assembling. As you've already noted, the person before you probably didn't.

 

Thanks Thorn. I have the right clamps and tool. I am on the same page with going ahead and doing the otherside. Tom Vails all Ferrari parts in Cleveland has had the parts i needed before job. Hope they have more. Thanks for the recommendations. Guess i am going to have to cut off the nuts with rotoary tool...

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You mentioned trouble with leverage. I used extensions to reach outside of vehicle. Wheel and wheel well out of course. Some of mine were so tight that I snapped a couple of the hex bits. I ended up cutting a couple off the first time I did it. I put a screw driver into vents on rotor to keep it from rotating. Good luck.

 

Same with me. Make sure the bolt heads are as clean as possible. You could use a small hammer to LIGHTLY tap so you know it is at the bottom of the bolt head. Try to get a straight line all the way. Use the jack as a support, that is where the force should be applied. Use a long breaker bar, move it so that all slack is gone and you feel that you are in contact with the bolt with no flex. Take it by surprise with a determined and strong push on the breaker bar. No hesitation.
/Peter
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Interested in more pictures under the car where you place the Quick Jack. Just bought one, same as yours, for my Mondial and it would be great to see pictures.
/Peter

 

When i get a chance i will post more pics.

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