Mondial Cab rear side window removal?

I brought the car to my workshop and they disassembled the window mechanism. The motor is still running but it was stuck b/c of all the dirt and hardened grease. As the window mechanism is out I would like to replace the motor with an improved example. Any hints which motors would fit?

Kind regards
Thorsten

 

hmmm.....

since this is bosch... I wonder if there is a similar vintage porsche motor that would work better. ( I read a 928 might be similar...otherwise no idea)

 

I expect that your current (no pun intended) motor will work fine, once the crud is cleaned out of the mechanism, and it's relubricated. If it still isn't good enough, there is a way to "goose it up" with the addition of 2 relays and a direct (fused) wire from the battery.
If you find you want more speed, let me know, and I'll tell you how to do the relay thing.

 

bump

Had to put the top up this morning as we finally got some rain. Guess what? I'll tell you. Rear, passenger window motor not working....THIS thread will be my instructions into hopefully getting the rear window to work.

I'll be taking pictures, and reporting back on this thread....Hopefully I'll just mention the post #'s in the order needed [perhaps with some of my own postings] on the way to make this smooth.

Good thread so far. Glad it's Friday, but can't go to work as hate the plastice-duck-tape approach

 

We'll be here, if you run into trouble.

 

After removing the side grill, and the access box, I realized the above instructions are mostly valid only if the window is up, which mine is not.

What kind of struck me about this problem was the lack of any motor noise, which I would expect if it were still receiving power.

Additionally, I thought since the item was working before and only recieve just some recent service regarding fluids, and two, rebuilt Bilstein front shocks [last week, at about $300 a shock minus removal and shipping which I consider a 'steal' in Ferrari items] that perhaps something in the environment might have disturbed just that one item.

I took out, both rear switches, very easy to do, see pics, and swapped the switches from wiring and both switches work, on the window that is operating. So, I felt I need to look further into a possible in-line fuse, or such. I will go down and try to take a multimeter reading to see if juice is truly getting to that right, rear motor, which I am suspecting is not the case.

IF some one know of a such an inline fuse or other connector that might have been jarred loose, let me know. OR
if you know what the circuit might read across the electrical tabs, would be appreciated: My most complete electrical schematics only relate to the 456, and not readily finding schematics for the Mondial, T, cabriolet

Till then. Going out to lower top as a young gal friend of ours, whose husband is medical over in Afg. theater will be here Tom. for some wine tastings....gotta love rain yesterday and 70's today.
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What was I thinking: I have the specs readily on current and voltages, from the one operating switch set of contacts.

Top down, drove the heck out of it yesterday about 60 miles over the roughest roads I could find in Sonoma and Napa county to try to level out the front shocks [sort of a hijack of the thread, but I'll bring it back later].

Those shocks make the front wheel wells look HORRIBLE. About 6+ inches showing above the top of the tire. I have been told it takes about 100-200 miles to make the shocks settle normally, but in the last week I done about 300+ and they still look ugly.

 

of sorts....you don't want to try this on a T, especially the right, hand side. Euro or NA. It is way way too difficult for the casual enterprise. Perhaps more on this later, but getting to that area is nothing like the above posts.

 

Once you have rebuilt the rear shocks and they too have a fresh nitrogen charge the back will come up and it will push the front down. It will restore the cars proper ride height.

The only fuses are on the main fuse board. It is also very possible that the big white connector at the fuse board is at fault. Not uncommon.

Also relay C and Q are related to the operation of the rear windows. Trade with a like relay from another position and see what happens.

If one of those doesn't do it call me. I'll drag out a diagram.

 

Were the shock mount bolts tightened when car was on the ground loaded? The stiction of the bushings will cause your problem if assembled and tightened whilst up on the rack.
Just my $0.02

 

Thanks Brian.

I did swap the Relays, and same result, but that's not to say BOTH are at problem. Since I have a spare Ferrari lying about, I'll take a relay out of that and try again.

Those white blocks are of concern. I [believe] the fuse block is good as I put a NOS in about five years ago, before everyone went off and started constructing a replacement: VERY expensive, but I feel lucky in getting a new one from UK....just wish I had kept the old one, where I could have re-created the plates etc.

Guessing the rear shocks will see rebuilds soon. Having you do the Front two, then the REAR two on the 456 only leaves four more to go :|

Will get back on the progress another time. MY major concern right now is the 456 [off topic] which I'm guessing will be making another flatbed journey soon

 

Looks like Fred Ff8929 has been off chat for 7 years. Anyone else know the wiring diagram or schematic to do the 2 relay setup from the wire. I need to deal with these windows and get my top down this spring