Well, guess I'll have to order the Hill Eng filter tool..... Ordered the USAG filter tool and it fit perfectly. However, there was an issue....but it's not a fault of the tool itself. I guess the sorry SOB that did my annual last time decided to install the filter without putting a light coat of oil on the oring......When I tried to remove the filter with the standard lever wrench and couldn't move it, I just attributed it to being at a bad angle. Not the case. Tonight, I broke the spot welds off as it had been described before. The way I did this though what makes me think this is more a fault of installation than of the tool itself. I managed to break all the spot welds by putting my Dewalt 20v Max impact wrench with it's 1200 ft-lbs in reverse..... Just for reference, I bought this to break the 400+ ft-lbs centerlock wheel nuts off if I was away from home.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah, I would have used a breaker bar, not an impact driver...that was surely going to bust those welds. Stamped steel tools are not going to withstand an impact driver. But it has been posted before, the welded sheet metal filter tool is not very strong...people have broken them removing filters before.
Regardless if a breaker bar was used or impact, spec for the filter is on 18 ft lbs of I recall....No reason for the filter to be that tight. Next step is to weld the wrench back together and I will put a torque guage on it to see just how much it takes to break it loose.... As far as not putting oil on the sealing ring, I have had to drive a screwdriver into the filter itself and use a chisel on the head of the filter to turn them because the person before did not put a light coat of oil on the o ring.
Guess I didn't clarify....first attempt was standard 3/8 drive ratchet, second attempt was 24" 1/2 breaker bar. Third attempt was well, we know how that turned out...
I never skimp on tools. I treat myself to the best one for the job no matter the cost. Tell yourself, as I do, that it's justified since you're saving a significant amount of $$ as a DIY job.
Filters always seem to become tighter over time than when they were installed. I don't know the reason - perhaps the heat.
Yes, the thermal cycles but I don't know if anyone has quantified the actual change. That is exactly what I do and why I have a bunch of tools I rarely use. BUT, I do have that odd tool when I need it.
Agreed, and i usually buy quality tools. Pretty sure this one was a quality tool as well, just not designed for impact use....cause who knew I'd have to break out a impact wrench for an oil filter! Ill go with thermal cycles to an extent, especially if it's been on there for a while. With this being right at I've year and 5000 miles, i'm not sure thermal cycles would be a factor. Sent from my SM-G955U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I got the wrench from Amazon and I’m waiting for my Oil Change kit from Ricambi. I put the tool on the filter just to check the fit and it does go on the filter. I have not tried to remove anything yet. But just HOW do you get the filter out? I’m looking and there seems to be a lot of pipes and hoses in the way (coupe, not spyder). I assume I can snake it out and the new one in with out making too much of a mess.
I'm with you that the technician did not use a torque wrench to install and put in on much too tight. I have never had trouble removing an oil filter I have installed, but definitely struggled with both filters and drain plugs installed by dealer techs. BMW dealer even stretched the drain bolt from installing too tight on my BMW. I had issues with it after breaking it loose and it threaded back on really rough (I thought they stripped the threads on the pan)...ended up having to go get a new drain bolt from the dealer.
Here is a picture of the oil drain plug I removed from my 430 which was serviced previously at a well known South Florida dealer. As you can see from the pic, the threads are stretched and separated due to over torqueing of the plug. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm sure he (the dealer tech) just installed it per the MM. Of course we've had other threads discussing the fact that the torque defined in the MM is about 3 times too much for the brass plug.
Thanks for that. Stupid me...had everything ready to go and did not realize I do not have a 12mm and 14mm HEX. Only had a 2-hour window so no time to get to store and back and get oil changed. Did find out I do not have to remove the entire floor as mine has the rubber grommets on the floor to facilitate draining the oil. I’m having a shop do ALL fluids every other year and I’m just doing oil/filter the other years. Having two hydraulic jacks also makes it a lot easier to lift up/down. Thanks for all the advice everyone. Should be warmer later this week so hopefully I can get it done. Also, big shout out to Daniel from Ricambi. My Change kit never showed up (10+days) and he shipped out another one too me right away. They both of course showed up on the same day! He tried to refuse payment for the 2nd but I insisted he take the $$ and I'll just keep the 2nd one for next time.
Just did my annual and couldn't find my oil tool for anything....called around, checked Toyota who say's on their website they use an 86/18 but after 3 hours driving around etc, I bought a universal thinking I would try it. Guess where I found the tool...on the freaking filter in the car from last year...getting old is hell!
This video is incorrect. The 360 motor has 2 oil drain plugs. One in front and the other in his video he calls it the transaxle. I have two engine plug drains and another further back for the transaxle service. Am I wrong? This must be the 430 as I continue to watch...I still don't understand the changes...it looks to me like my car having two engine oil plugs for drainage yes? Did that change happen in the 430?