# 61079000 electromagnetic valve

Many prior threads on this -- IIRC, there is a similar valve used on BMW, and we couldn't figure out why it wasn't identical

Do advanced searches on "hot water valve" and "6107900" in the Boxers/TR/M section. Also, there has to be something in the TR cross-reference thread.

If you want a rebuild kit -- do an internet search on "Bosch mono valve repair kit".

 

Read posts #34 and #35 in this thread. Good luck.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/no-interior-lights-on-the-testarossa.273716/page-2#post-139357834

 

The hot water valve is always default open, when it is grounded it closes. Temperature sensor dictates when to close. I believe this is correct.

 

Yes, but that's an expensive source -- should be more like ~$20 (AFAIK, MTC is the manufacturer, and many sources sell the same thing at wildly different prices):

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=valve+repair+kit+w+126

However, are you sure that the sealing plunger is the problem? You didn't describe the trouble at all, and if the symptom is "always heat on" there can be three causes:

1. electrics not working (the two terminals of the hot water valve coil has to have +12V present to hold it closed when no heat is requested),

2. inlet and outlet hoses swapped (the valve only has enough power to hold itself closed if the flow is in the correct direction -- there is an arrow molded on it to show the correct flow direction. Did you just do a major and swap the hoses?)

3. Seal on plunger end bad, or debris on seal seat, or plunger stuck in the open position.

If you've got coolant leaking out of it, then the sealing diaphragm could be ruptured. What is your symptom/trouble?

 

Remove the passenger footrest plate -- the hot water valve is mounted on the right to the chassis (if LHD).

This sounds more like a sensing/control problem to me. Just unplug the hot water valve when trying to get hot air:

If you still don't get heat = then maybe the valve is mechanically stuck closed or blocked.

If you do get heat = has to be a sensing/control problem, and you should do the resistance tests at the unplugged AC ECU harness connector as described on pages H29 and H30 of the TR WSM.

There is also an "oddball" relay on the AC unit that the AC ECU energizes to turn off (and open) the hot water valve when heat is requested, but I wouldn't go after that unless unplugging the hot water valve does give heat and all the resistance checks in Section H are OK.

Good Hunting!