Questions for AC people

Yes, the expansion valve is toast. There was moisture in the system that caused the rust.

As for the fitting, I'd contact Polar Bear, or another A/C specialty store, and see if they can help. I've used Polar Bear with great service.

https://www.polarbearinc.com/index.cfm/category/289/ferrari.htm

As for the black crap, here you go: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/fjc-2862-insulation-tape/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3sbEy9P02QIVz7jACh1WowhzEAQYAiABEgLxT_D_BwE

 

I got a whole roll of prestite tar tape at autozone When I redid my 968 ac a few months ago.
I don’t know how much you know about ac systems but I learned a lot this past summer. I had to redo the entire system. And one thing I have learned is you pretty much have to disassemble the whole system and make sure every line and component are clean and that every single o-ring is replaced. Fill the condensor and evaporator and hoses with cleaning solution then blow them out with compressed air. Ac systems are a pain in the ass and need to be pretty much prefect to work right.

https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/tape/santech-prestite-tape/158980_0_0

 

The black tape is Presstite, a cork impregnated insulating tape. It is listed on e-bay and Amazon.

Aftermarket dryers and expansion valves are listed in the parts cross reference section. Relatively inexpensive.

You may want to also replace all the Schrader valves and use new O rings in your hose connections. There is an O ring lubricant called Nylog which is very effective in sealing the hose connections.

 

Yea you need to start from scratch so you know how much oil is in system and definitely replace All schrader valves. I refilled system only to leak out again from a crappy schrader valve. I rented crap gauges and the low side coupling wasn’t making contact with the schrader valve giving me false readings. That lead to all sorts of confusion and another receiver drier. So get a good gauge set.

 

I think your local NAPA would be worth a quick phone call for the Schrader valve. Very common part.

 

What everybody said! None of the parts are expensive or hard to find. I BECAME an AC mechanic because real AC shops basically sucked in my two attempts to have them work on my 328's AC. Now I do all my own ac work. It's not difficult at all but does require a vacuum pump and a gauge set and some reading. Internet's ok but there is so much incorrect info in addition to good info that if you don't already know a subject reasonably well, you can't tell the good from the bad. So books are better, at least initially.

As noted, you need to start from scratch so -to-speak - new drier, new expansion valve, new Orings, MAYBE new hoses. The choice of refrigerant is important. R12 will provide better cooling in the OEM system than R134. But R12 is expensive and a PITA to get if you DIY. You can do it but it's a pain. Propane-based refrigerants have cooling characteristics that are slightly BETTER than R12. But these pretty much have to by DIY; I don't think any certified AC shop would install it. But it works quite well and I've been using it on my 328 for years. Compared to any US car made since the '60's, the AC still sucks but it's not too bad in temps below 90F.

 

Since you seem to know what you're doing, just as a suggestion, I would stick with R12 if you can. I assumed it's a banned substance in CA; not sure if they allow for certification to handle freon as other states do. But if that is an option, I really would suggest sticking with it because it works so well.

If that is not an option in CA then move on to whatever.

It does look like your system will have to be rebuilt. The hardest part will be the hoses down the passenger side of the car.

But hey, it happens, the auxiliary stuff is what goes on these cars.

-F

 

What is the pain with R12? I'm not challenging, just curious what you experienced.

-F

 

Unavailable or illegal in many states. Other states requires certification to handle it. Do, mostly unavailable to the DIYer.

 

R12A is legal and easy to use, legal and plug and play in the original system. It's propane. But don't freak out. It has safety features to keep you from dying in a ball of flame.

 

It is becoming harder to find shop who has R12 in stock, but a lot of the older refrigeration units on semi trailers call "reffers" still use it. As far down the rabbit hole you are, I would probably just replace the entire system. If you want to stay original or have a better system depends on the path you take.

If you convert to 134, you will want to replace the hoses.

 

You don't need the schrader valve - put a plug in it

 

Where would the binary switch be relocated to?

 

R12A isn't R12 and as far as I know R12A is not supposed to be used in systems originally designed for R12. R12A is legal to buy and own, but depending on what you read there is some question as whether it's legal to use in automotive systems. EPA lists it as not suitable. Not sure with "Not suitable" means.

 

R12a is completely compatible with r12. That is why they named it r12a. I used it in my stock 1978 308 and it worked great.

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

 

Ok, here is what Duracool say about using R12a in an R12 system:

Now that leaves a lot unanswered. It's also consistent with what I have read elsewhere, that R12a is a direct substitute for R134a but not for R12. I have no idea why. Hard to believe it's only the fittings and labels, but maybe that is to insure the system doen't get recharged in the future with R12.

 

Still have R12? Cool.

 

I ripped all mine out and wired up a trinary switch.