4 Post Lift Being Installed For F430 Spider Urgent Question

Depends on your life to be honest. I've been on lifts where they clear, but, i've also seen some that don't look like they'll clear.

Personally, i'd just order them. Since if you plan on lowering at any point in the future, you'll likely need to use blocks otherwise.

 

there has been no issues with the standard aluminum ramps provided with either of my lifts from two different manufacturers.

 

Yes you do. My lift has the regular ramps and I always have to add some extra 2x4's to easy the angle without touching bottoming out.

 

Yes you will need them.
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Interesting...the 430 must be lower than the 360. Standard ramps work fine for my car.

 

I have the Race Rack HN20-5 for my Direct-Lift lift. My 360 and my friend's 430 fit fine with the original steel ramps provided by Direct-Lift. Very heavy. Race Rack's polystyrene ramps are feather light.

 

My Bendpak works fine for my 360 with standard ramps.

 

There is 2 types of F430 owners.
Those who have scuffed their front end & Those that Will...

I have a Challenger 4 post & it rubs slightly with the Aluminum Ramps that came with it, on my 430, C5 Vette (02) & my C7 Vette (14)... the C2 (64) & C3 (68) do not.
They all rubbed ever so slightly and going slow I hadn't noticed any scratches.

Solutions to fix are to put something 1 inch in height beneath the ramp, gives a bit of a lip to overcome but isn't real difficult, but it changes the angle just enough.

Another difference can be if your ramps hang out of a garage as that increases the incline. Mine do just a little bit & my driveway is angled...

 

My F430 clears the ramps fine. Lowered but on 20” aftermarket wheels...
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I never understood the interest in weight for ramps. The stock ramps on my lift pivot down when the lift goes up so they clear the garage door. Since I never have to pick them up what do I care about 30 lb more or less? I get that it sounds cool but does it really make a difference and if so, what? I do get it if you have to install and remove the ramps every time you want to get the car out.

 

Those steel ramps are heavy AF. I got the aluminum ones for sure - the garage where I have my lift is fairly short so the ramps have to extend out anyway. But regardless, I would have still gone with the lighter ones to put less stress on the pivot point.

 

The ramps are held by a steel rod approx. 1/2" in diameter. I don't care how much those ramps weigh they aren't going to sheer that rod. So my question still stands. What difference does it make?

 

+1

 

Do get the low profile ramps to go with the lift

 

Yea, this is true on the extended ramps. Later today I will post some pics of the standard ramps on my Bendpak.

 

In hindsight I wish I had aluminum ramps, just for the weight savings.

 

OK, here is a pic of the pivot on my ramps. You can see that the front edge of the ramp is up slightly off the deck. I am pointing at the pivot, you can see it is large. The ramp is 31" from the pivot the end and drops down some when I raise the lift but sits flat when the lift is on the ground. I never take the ramps off, no need to do that. Unless you have to remove the ramps by hand the difference of a few lb doesn't mean anything. It isn't like the lift is going to fail because the steel ramp weighs 20 lb (or whatever) more than the aluminum ramp.

 

Some people have lower cealings, they remove the ramps to fit another car underneath. Or garage isnt as deep so they can't clear their doors with the ramps on.

Personally I have no problem moving my 30 lb ramps when I need to take them off, other's opt for the aluminum. While Id take the aluminum ones I wasn't going to pay extra for them.

Everyone has different needs.