Electric window wire length | FerrariChat

Electric window wire length

Discussion in '206/246' started by racerboy9, Jul 11, 2018.

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  1. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    2,514
    I've searched but haven't found the correct length of the electric window winding cable. Does anyone have this information?
     
  2. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,836
    Norfolk - UK
    Full Name:
    Tony
    #2 TonyL, Jul 13, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
    Sorry, I have no idea.
    I do recall someone posted a very good example of how they are fitted together so perhaps they mentioned the cable length?
    Sometimes the search doesn't pick up what you search for, use multiple key words

    There this article for the 308 but not sure it gives the right length for the 246, its a good starting point I guess

    http://www.birdman308.com/service/windowservice/index.html
     
  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
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    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    I have a spare Passenger's side from a 246 E and it measures 11.5'
    8' of open loop and there are 6 windings on the OD 2.25" hub
     
  4. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    Thanks for that length of wire. I have one installed in this junk door that seems to work OK. The one for the other door needs a re-wire and part of the wire is missing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. TTR

    TTR F1 Veteran
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    Mar 29, 2007
    5,191
    Riverside, CA
    Full Name:
    Timo
    Having restored/serviced similar regulator systems and replaced OEM(?) window cables on several 365 GTB/4s, my experience has revealed little to no consistency in cable lengths, locations of the pulleys or their support structures and I wouldn't be surprised if Dinos, which were constructed at same time period and by same "craftsmen", plagued with similar discrepancies.
    Some individual cars have even had noticeable side-to-side variations in OEM(?) cable lengths, pulley locations and at times interesting(?) cable routing with additional "tensioners", etc, creating geometry so strange it's a wonder the windows moved/worked at all.
    So basically, I'd recommend checking cable & pulley geometry first and, if necessary, modify/move pulleys, etc to locations better accommodating reasonably accurate window movement and then custom fabricating cables accordingly.
     

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