2010 California roof 95% closed how can i fix it? Hammer ;-)

I don’t recall reading a manual way to open the roof, only a procedure to manually close the roof in the manual. If you manually close the roof you then have to take it to the dealer for repairs. You might read the procedure in your manual and see if it tells you when to pull the flaps up and if you are required to disconnect anything from the flaps before raising them. If not you might be able to operate the roof to a position where you can manually pull the flap and then complete the roof cycle.

 

I had problems with my roof and the only fix was for the dealer to replace a sensor(s). When I couldn't close it, I would open it all the way, restart the car, open and close all of the windows, and eventually I would get it closed.

 

James, it's really unfortunate that you have this problem, while located so far from a dealer.

The hardtop roof mechanism is quite complicated and one needs to be very careful when addressing any problems with it. You best approach is to contact your regular dealer, give them all the information you have and have them advise you on your best recourse. Since your roof is already in a off-kilter position, you risk bending part of the mechanism or even a roof panel if you make the wrong move with it. That can make you situation much worse. Your problem may just be mechanical at the moment but if you bend a panel or crack a glass repairs may involve body work and an additional shop and labour.

These are expensive, complicated machines and unless you are in the auto repair business, your options are limited when something goes wrong. With inexpensive DIY projects, we write them off, toss them if we mess up but we cannot do that with an expensive car. I strongly suggest you ask advice from your regular dealer. They may be able to suggest a workaround but you may have to bite the bullet about the trailer. Good luck!

 

Yeah judging from the photos a trip to the dealer is the only way I’d go, I mis understood what you were referring to when I first read your post. At this point if it were me I’d not try to operate the top at all and I’d get an appointment with your service dept. ASAP.

 

Roof sensors are one the the downfalls of the California, though I think all ferrari’s have one issue or another. Do you have the new power warranty? If so I believe the roof issue would be covered.

 

Not to add insult to injury but the roof is actually made by Webasto.
The good thing about that is that you can take it to a VW dealer and ask how they fix it on a VW EOS (almost identical roof)
https://www.webasto.com/us/markets-products/car/convertible-roof-systems/retractable-hardtops/

I’ve have a 2011 California and have noticed that there are a couple of things you can do to improve the performance of the roof.
1. Operate the roof with the engine on to give it more power. It is much less likely to get stuck when it’s moving faster.
2. Make sure to lubricate all rubber seals with Krytox (get it from VW or Amazon.com)
This makes the panels much less likely to get stuck together.

Good luck!

 

I can understand where you are coming from, and it would be worse for you owning other exotic cars. I only asked about the new power warranty because if you bought it from a Ferrari dealer they generally come with 1 year of new power warranty but I could be wrong there. Good luck with the repair and sale.

 

These are good points. Actually, the Webasto roof has actually been used in the M-B SL-Klasse R230 since 2001 and in the SLK-Klasse R170 since 1996. I'm talking about the legendary Mercedes SL. The EU Cali came out in 2008, the VW Eos in 2006.

Google "SLK R170 roof won't close" and see what you come up with. This is way before Ferrari, Volvo or VW started using the same mechanism.

None of this is new.

However, keep in mind every one of these cars has its own unique body panels and glass so if you let a VW dealer try to fix the Cali's roof, that dealer will likely refuse or if they try to do you a favour, they will say they can only do their best and will not be liable for any unexpected problems. You can also try an indy who works on SL and SLK roofs but you will have to accept the same risks.

IMO, the truth is that when you own one of these cars you bought at market prices (i.e. not a salvaged car at crazy low-ball prices), you own an expensive fussy asset that can get further damaged if you have an unauthorized service shop experiment with it.

So in a way, this is why these cars are so expensive because this forces owners to have them properly-serviced to protect their purchases. It protects (your) resale value. It may not always be this way as time passes and poor (salvaged) specimens accumulate on the market but those cars will likely stop working pretty quickly... because owners will skip maintenance. These cars are (purposely) not simple or inexpensive cars to maintain - no service manuals + requirement for special tools + factory training + expensive parts. High cost of proper maintenance can be a shock for owners but that's partly how exotics maintain resale value. Even Wikipedia says this about the Eos hardtop roof...

"...Periodic maintenance must be done to keep the seals conditioned so that they function properly. Early models had a different seal design that was prone to leaking, but these were updated in the 2009/2010 timeframe. Proper body alignment is critical for proper top function..."​

So using a proper rubber seal lubricant is a good idea, not so much because the seals might stick to the rear lid but because it will allow the seals to work properly and also eliminate noises caused when dry seals move against the lids as your car goes over nasty stretches of road. It's the same with noisy door seals. Krytox is non-silicone so it should not damage the paint.

 

Which Krytox product are you guys referring to, as they make many different lubricants? Thanks in advance..

 

Yes the early Calis had more glitches. However, your car is 8 years old. A variety of age related issues may be the fault and have nothing to do with any design imperfection.

It seems that your distance from a dealer is a concern. But aside from extra cost,many owners flatbed the car to the dealer, even for routine service.

Its July, perhaps it doesn’t need the extra expense of a covered trailer ( don’t know weather conditions of your location) But obviously when the top is fixed , flat bed tow for the return is fine.

 

Maybe send it back to where you bought it. Have them fix it and sell it and send you the cash.

 

I have used a couple of different ones.
This one is the best of the ones I’ve used:
WV part number: G-052-172-A1 G052172A1

The effect is similar to that of a good leather treatment. It not only lubricates but also softens the seals up. Preventing it from cracking and/or sticking.

 

Wghat is the average cost of the roof repair on the Cali?
if it's sensor related

 

I suspect you're wondering because you've considered buying the car.

Unfortunately roof problems are not all the same. How much they cost to fix depend on how fast the actual cause in each case is identified as well as how much work is involved in the repairs. The culprits could be misalignment, damaged mechanism, defective wiring, defective sensor, failed hydraulic pump or issues with lubrication. The repairs could, in addition to fixing the culprits involve repairing dent(s) on the roof panel that can be caused by some malfunctions, cleanup of hydraulic leak, replacement of failed parts.

If you're thinking of buying one of these cars, my advice is to look at the cost of extended warranty and either buy them or if you don't buy warranty, to set aside the equivalent of at least 3 years of warranty as a repair budget when you buy the car. People sell extended warranties to make a profit so they know the odds and costs of repairs covered by their policies. Keep in mind, wear and tear items are not covered by any warranty.

I bought my car new and used it as much as I could to flush out any issues as well as test out how reliable my dealer's service department is. We only have one dealer in my province. After 3 years I felt confident enough to forego extended warranty as my factory warranty expired. My car is now in its 6th year and I only had one service that warranty might have been covered - noisy fuel pumps resolved for about $600 when the car was 4 years old.

No longer having a warranty also freed me to apply aftermarket performance upgrades to my car.

 

Perhaps this is just me, but I find this post a bit impolite.

Youve taken the time to complain about a problem with considerable detail and then expressed your disgust with the brand with some ‘whiskey talk’ about selling the car.

However, many have offered their insight and help.

Now that it’s fixed, you deign not to waste your valuable time to explain the actual problem or solution.Perhaps this ican be explained since you didint even know the correct model year of your car and may be equally unqualified to understand your mechanical problems or their eventual solution.

Anyway, this is one of the reasons why I believe FChat is not the place to discuss mechanical issues. It is better used to express your passion for the brand with pictures, anecdotes and stories about new and collectible FCars,

 

I have sensed the same although I respond by bucking the proclivity for chit-chats and cliques by contributing more in a technical manner instead because many owners also use FChat seeking advice to potentially costly problems or projects and I also enjoy the learning process that comes from analyzing and debating technical ideas.

IMO, to post a truly helpful response to someone's problem, one needs to make a good attempt to explain, provide details and generally ensure readers can actually benefit from your comment(s). So while I can appreciate someone's disappointment with their car woes, one shouldn't add salt to other people's wounds by being coy and tantalizing.

 

I could not Agree more..

 

lol
the roof situation is obviously an "imperfection" in the car
just like in the SLK
they should gave corrected it in the production run when it started being an issue.

 

Does anyone know how this guy ended up fixing the hardtop problem himself?