Im not sure what the actual miles are because it was converted so the speedo wont be original. Wont know until I open it up and measure things. I dont like the 4 ring arrangement thats for sure but regardless it'll puff on start up and use some oil just because of the design of the the engine.
Pistons out. Every liner has rust pitting which isn't from coolant because there's no "waterline" like you can imagine when water stands in something metal. Its from very high humidity and inactivity. How it was stored in the past I dont know or if it sat but I can tell you the 84 I restored that sat outside uncovered in Lousianna for 5 years without air cleaners and 11 more inside inoperable it didn't have rust pitting in the liners. Who knows? But this is why its burning oil. The other issue is the number 7-12 bank has scuffed pistons and the 1-6 bank are perfect. My opinion is it was running lean on the left bank and the fuel distributor settings being off bank to bank backs this up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The kilometers are accurate. When the car was de-federalized in 2010, the new speedo/odo was set to the same position as the old one. The kilometers covered are also consistent with the service history and motor vehicle registration records over the years. The car was originally a Hawaii-based car, which would be consistent with Paul's theory of high humidity. For the last 15 years, the car has been in a climate controlled garage. Sent from my SM-G935V using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Your right about the "box of candy"! Is the rust superficial enough for perhaps .010 oversize pistons?
Im always surprised with what I find on these cars, every boxer is different! I think 1mm oversize will clean it up.
1 mm is 2. oversize. the sleeves looks not so bad and I think 1st oversize ( 0,5 mm ) would be ok? would it not be also ok and I think cheaper to use new sleeves with standard size and the original pistons ( if they are still ok? ) with only new rings? or even use standard new size pistons ( cheaper than oversize pistons I think? ) again with new standard sleeves? I never machined the sleeves on a BB but on the old 250 engines ( I rebuilt already 4 engines completely, also with harder valve seats for unleaded fuel ) I once started to wide the sleeves 0,5 mm and the first sleeve when machining suddenly starts turning, so I had to remove all sleeves, machine them and put them in again.
Parts on the disassembly table. Discovered it has 11 P weight class rods and 1 L weight class rod. The L rod is 20 grams lighter than the other 11. I have several other rods to chose from that Ill trade for the L so I can sub in a rod thats close (but heavier) than the other 11 so we only reduce the weight of one rod rather than put 11 on a diet to match the oddball. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
20 grams is acceptable in an inline engine, like a straight six (this is two straight sixes being a flat 12 - we wont get into the 180 degree V12 argument). A v configuration you want no more than 5 grams variation. Those specs are for a grocery getter not a ferrari. Bottom line is it worked like this but it doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. The rods will be matched so the big end and little end all match and the crank will be checked for straightness (usually have a warp to them) and either polished or machined. Haven't come across one yet that needed an adjustment to the balance.
The block is being a real challenge to separate. Ive had bad ones before so this isn't new but it requires patience and letting it soak in WD-40 while I do other things. The main thing is its moving. Like the head studs, corrosion bonds the studs to the block. The flat 12's are prone to this because water pools on the top of the block if it gets rained on or washed and wicks along the studs over time. It'll be interesting to see how rusted the studs are once its apart. . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I learned a trick from a steam engine builder. He heats up studs and pushes a candle into them. The paraffin wicks better than any penetrate on the market. I tried it on rusty exhaust bolts and it was a breeze. I just have wax all over my floor.
good idea jeff I will try this "wax system" next time to remove the wax from your floor ( even from a carpet ) you may use blotting paper and an iron
How about white wine? Oh sorry, that’s for getting red wine stains out I’ve been letting it soak more since it budged. I’ve seen a few broken blocks for sale where they weren’t patient enough.
Some updates! Block is apart and now at the machine shop. Its since been cleaned and the heads are apart. We checked the deck height and wanted to verify the compression ratio before ordering new pistons. Ill be going 10:1 dead on and the factory spec is 9.2:1. I know the factory claim is higher than what it really is but I check them all and find they all vary. So in this case, the deck height (piston edge to deck) is .070" on one bank and .080" on the other! Measuring the dome volume and factoring in head gasket volume, dome volume and chamber volume we came up with 8.5:1 on one bank and 8.3:1 on the other. Isn't that nice? Almost a full point below the claimed compression ratio and inconsistent. This engine will be a true 10:1 when Im done. It makes for a significant increase in torque. Not uncommon to have the corrosion on the studs, that made it very difficult to split without damaging anything. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Note silver paint on gold spark plug tubes. I pulled the upper studs, tubes and other studs that interfere with the rebuilding process. All will get the paint stripped and re-plated in the correct colours. The vent tube for the bell housing is also covered in spray paint. Ive since taken the drop gear case apart and found the lower bearings have failed. Ring nuts have been reused and removed in the distant past using a chisel. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Paul, when you rebuild these motors do you recommend changing the exhaust valves to SS? When I had the intake runners off on my engine one set of the gaskets had bonded to the head. It took me and a buddy two days to remove them. Lots of fresh razor blades as the gasket remover did nada. It is amazing how many engine outs get the spray of silver paint over everything. my sparkplug tubes looked like that also. I remember we joked about it as part of the "full service". That engine will look beautiful when you're done.
Yes the exhaust valves are the number one concern for me with any 2 valve ferrari engine from this era. 308, dino, daytona, BB doesn't matter. They all have the potential to fail and there is zero warning. Both my BB and 400 are at risk, I just need to find the time to work on my own stuff! Haven't driven my BB since last winter so its safe! Not sure what ferrari uses for paper but its pretty tough stuff to get off!
This is a first. No idea why the bolts were used in place of studs and only 3 out of 4 on this mount. The rest are all studs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sensor plate housings are grease balls but will clean up nicely. Warm up regulator has seen some debris of some sort which most likely made its way past that screen too. And this is after the fuel filter. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Box is apart. It needs most bearings just from use really. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've seen quite a few head scratchers in my day. Just on old motorcycles which are about 100000x easier to work on than a Ferrari anything. It takes as much effort to do something correctly as incorrectly, so it still amazes me how much effort some people put into being lazy.
Bikes are worse because leaving it original rarely happened! Im in the middle of correcting multiple sins on an early 66 FLH I bought this summer. Ferrari prices for the parts if you can find them and Im lucky its not a put together bike that started as a title with an engine that happened to end up in a frame from who knows where.
