First to Second Shift in Manual

Syncros are a problem in these cars but they aren't too expensive to replace.

 

I (MT) had that when the indy replaced the shift cables. I had to adjust them myself to get it to work. Same symptoms - doesnt work at high rpm.

 

Shift lever bushing is the first thing to check as they frequently crack and a hairline crack is all it takes. You can find the procedure for removing the shifter to check it on many posts. Not difficult to do. If it is cracked, upgrade to a metal bushing.

 

Both bushing then cables are good recommendations (in order). I was thinking F1 but edited my response when I realized that it was manual. Syncros tend to manifest when cold as well.

 

In addition to the bushing, try swapping gear oil with Redline.

Made a huge difference in my car swapping from year-old Shell gear oil to fresh Redline even after replacing the bushing.

 

Is it on upshifts or downshifts or both? Do you double clutch?

Mine (after some adjustment) is pretty good about going into 2nd but still a little hesitant on occasion when cold.

 

Well, first you check the clutch !! If the throw out bearing is going out, then the clutch is not working properly and it makes shifting hard !!
Next you need to align the cables of the shifting mechanism !!
I doubt the syncros are that bad, unless the previous owner didn't know how to drive shift !!
Always used double de-clutch with rev matching on downshifts
Allow gearbox oil to warm up before spirited driving
Never "force" the shifts
If you understand the mechanic, the syncros work with friction like "brakes" to equalize gear speeds, so you need to apply force smoothly

 

I had exact same problem. Hill eng shifter bushing at $60 totally fixed this!!!

 

The thing about the variators, and most mechanical things, is that you don't know if/when they will fail. It has made it this far so you are probably fine for a while BUT that surely isn't a guarantee. Changing variators is a big job; pull the cams territory. Technically you can do them in the car but it can damage the cam.

 

I don’t like the shift from 1-2...on my car its kind of notchy/ grinds a little...revving higher actually helps, esp when warm, my Indy checked it out, didn’t think there was anything wrong. Changed the fluid anyway. More or less the same,

 

I think it's all about heat. Even just a little bit.
Always move your shifter 2nd or 3rd before reverse.
Start in 1st as you ease out, and get into 2nd, even for a few hundred feet.
Watch H2O temps and shift slowly. Don't get a bit aggressive until the oil temp needle moves.
At that point it seems heel-toe is much more responsive.
You'll never regret using redline.

 

Same exact problem and solution here.

 

I want to say that you need to spend time with the car before you can describe shifts. You will want to go easy with her until she is good and hot and take mental notes about the different feel. There is a warm up time where all bets are off on the feel. This is going to be 5-20 minutes and low revs, then there is sort of a middle of the range mode where it can feel a bit different perhaps better..then, at least for my car there is a "ahhh-ha-Enzo-awesome-buggah" mode. The car acts differently here because this is where it was designed to be. Fully warm trans oil, fully warm water, fully warm engine oil and all the metal is up to temp. For my car, that I got when she was a pup at one owner and 5600 miles, this is about after an hour of driving! Think about that for a minute...an hour of driving! who has this time to enjoy? It's definitely not all the time for me but yeah, when my car is good and race ready I know it and so will you. Like nothing else!

Disclaimer is that your car needs to be ready and up to date and service wise...and you need to be a careful steward of it and ensure that all the precautions are followed that can damage your car....my .02

 

Try the bushing first. Only costs $60 and diy. Even if this doesn’t fix it,it is something that will probably need replacing at some point anyway. Subjectively,this seems to fix this problem in at least half the cases in other threads I’ve read.

https://aldousvoice.com/2012/09/29/ferrari-360-f430-gear-lever-bushing/

 

I'd double check the variator with the importer not the dealer - there are very few variators not done - also it only applies to
'360 models with engine numbers below 60796 only (vin range 114015 to 123399)'

As to second gear its a classic Ferrari issue when cold as a couple of folk have noted above (and new owners often are not told about) - its not something that will bite later

 

There is a diff between a stiff shift and not being able to get into 2nd at all like it is blocked out.

If you exp the later the hill eng bushing solved my ‘blocked’ 2nd gear experience.

 

Is the shifter/clutch in the 360 similar to the 430?

I.e. - do they suffer the same symptoms and have the same fixes?

 

The shifter assembly, cables and gear selector is the same in the 360/430

 

Can shift my '99 from 1st to second gear at low revs stone cold without any difficulty. This following the Hill Engineering bushing and a cable adjustment. Once warm, shift at high RPM's no problem. It does take some practice to engage each gear just right. You can't be ham-fisted and expect it to shift like a Porsche. Using factory recommended Shell gear lube..... always have. Redline is a good product if you buy the right stuff... made a big difference in my 348 years ago. Just don't use the gear lube with particulate additives, as the pump in the tranny will not like that.

 

Just an FYI, if anyone does need synchros replaced in their 360 or 430, I know a guy in the California Central Valley who offers a 2 day turnaround on a transmission rebuild (if you ship your transmission to him) or a 3 day turnaround (if you ship your car to him). He has rebuilt over FIFTY 360/430 transmissions! PM me.

 

You could be right. TBH, it’s prob not something many complain about, but I wonder if my car runs hot enough.

 

The 360 gearbox has what is called "blind lubrication" in some areas. The 2nd gear location is one such area.

This means that it does not get directly supplied oil.

So frequently it needs to be warmed before any abrupt/hard shifting.

Also getting out the goopy Shell oil and replacing with Redline will make a huge difference as well.