That’s a bit of a story that I might go into later, was originally at Exclusive Auto Center(the authorised Ferrari body shop in Brisbane) who attempted to rip me off and refused to complete it after 20 months. Ended up taking it to Styling Automotive who do a lot of Alfa and Porsche work. Can’t speak highly enough of them so far. Dave Stiling the proprietor is a straight up guy, great team of guys. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
20 months? Holy crap. I'd heard about the F40 of Bevan's and the... fracas that ensued. Nick does terrific work, but I couldn't afford him outside an insurance claim, so I've had no experience. I'd be interested to see the finished job and hear the full story. I had the QV in Brissy today, which will need a freshen up one day. I'll let you know next time I'm up
That would be great !. Yes I heard the F40 story after the fact, hindsight and all that...... If I recall for correctly, were you looking a front spoiler ? I have a deep Euro spoiler that's sound. Nick told me it would need replacing so I bought a new one, which is now on the car, The original one is obviously used but intact no cracks, but red..
I didn't know you could buy new ones! Mine needs some minor repairs, and repainting. Maritimo Yachts did it the last time, but I lost my contact there. ITMT, I'm driving it around with 3,000 stone chips on it
Image Unavailable, Please Login Polished the hubcaps and fitted new Dino badges from Dino246.com. A top quality product and huge improvement on the pale yellow ones fitted previously.
Be interesting to check the costs these days - front (steel) and rear (glass) clips together cost a bit over $5k from Cants in 2002.
July 2018: - Oil Sump: Pan/baffle, sensor, dipstick parts removed and cleaned. Gasket, pan nuts/washers, crush washers replaced. Oil and filter changed - Gear Sump: Pan removed and cleaned. Gasket, pan nuts/washers, crush washers replaced. Gear oil changed - Valve cover mount surfaces completely cleaned, gaskets replaced - 4 End caps (valve covers, driver side) completely cleaned, gaskets replaced - Camshafts: Removed, cleaned, relubricated. Cam o-rings(4) and seals(4) replaced - Timing belts changed (car not due, but service required belt removal. Old belts replaced.) Correct timing marks on all 4 cams set and confirmed after belts installed - Valve clearances checked. 30/32 measured within spec. 2 shims replaced to bring remaining 2 valves to spec - Sparkplugs removed and cleaned, boots cleaned, new dielectric grease - Oil cross-over pipe: 1 hose replaced, 5 clamps replaced - Rear brakes: corroded bleed screws replaced with new self-bleeding screws. Caps over adjustment screws replaced - Misc old nuts/bolts replaced with new hardware - Fuel injectors/o-rings replaced - Front turn lenses replaced with correct Euro (white/amber) lenses
Replace rear new trunk vinyl cover. Oh such fun. Can someone lend me some more clamps... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now my rear deck won't shut since the new rubber is too high. Any solutions? I'm getting tired from pushing and squeezing it. Will it go down with the heat from the engine? The deck looks fragile and I don't want to damage by slamming it.
Tonight I just finished sorting out my leaks, replaced oil and transmission pan gaskets and new shift shaft seals, Fingers crossed for fluids to be put back in the morning with NO leaks I hope
My neighbor is an ex Ferrari / Maserati restoration guy. His garage is always filled with some project or another. I showed him some rust spots that I noticed by the windshield and lower front left wheel. He suggested we take the car the bare metal and warned me that "you never know what's under the paint". We discovered that at some point a few fiberglass patches were used to repair previous rust issues. It's been a ton of fun working on it, after dismantling it I couldn't help but feel I have a 1:1 scale model of a 308 GT4. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The FD and WUR are back from being rebuilt. Drained the fuel tanks the easy way in preparation for the installation of the rebuilt WUR and FD. (I did this the hard way last year) I threaded a barbed nylon fitting into the braided line that goes to the fuel filter and attached clear plastic tubing. With the FD unplugged turning the key will run the fuel pump. The flow rate is pretty impressive. The fuel looked sparkling clean. Took almost 15 gallons out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Must have clean lines. New filter going in too.
Must be getting close now! All I did to mine today was drive it to work Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
Unfortunately my original engine hood struts could not be re-serviced due to shaft damage. It appears a previous owner used vice grips to hold up the hood. According to Frank, not an uncommon mistake. In fact he said a 348 pair had just come in after mine with similar damage. After marking the damaged spots for me, Strutwise sent back the originals with a replacement pair. Replacements fit perfectly. If you are looking at replacing struts I'd check them out. Good CDN pricing too. Image Unavailable, Please Login
2018 Sticker Party for 8th Annual FOG Charity Rally: https://fogrally.com/2018-rally-and-gala/ Image Unavailable, Please Login
Refinished/repainted the battery cover over the weekend along with a ton of little bits, screw refinishing and replacements, etc in prep for Concorso next weekend. Just a few more little things to do. Image Unavailable, Please Login