Torque specs for Ferrari lug nuts ??

And don't forget, it's not just about torque spec - you've got to make sure you have the right grade bolt for the application, particularly where it's really key (brake caliper bolts, suspension bolts, etc.). If you're doing any significant work on your car you should know the differences between a 4.8, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 grade hardware, and why it may be important to use a particular grade. This is also something that isn't spec'd in an owner manual - you get a sense for it over time. There's a good primer here: http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html.

I've found cheesy 4.8 grade bolts used for brake calipers for example - put in there by some hack who didn't know what they were doing - and that's just plain dangerous. Don't be a hack!

 

Interesting...my mechanic told me in no uncertain terms that I should use 90 ft lbs for my F355. Would be nice to know who is actually right ... seems to be a divergence of opinion here.

 

Rick- When in doubt, look it up. 90 ft lbs is ~122 Nm, Try and find that in any Ferrari WSM. Closest is the 456M at 120 Nm. 355 WSM says 98 Nm or 72.28 ft lbs. Get your tech to show you where he is finding 90 ft lbs. Out of his rear end?

If all the posters here do not have factory workshop manuals for your cars that actually have most of the numbers you need, PM me and I can tell you where to get the information for free. Nothing worse than an uninformed owner. Like a dog watching TV when you talk to your techs.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

It has been considered routine to torque 355 lugs to 85 or 90 lbs since the Challenge car days. At factory spec they come loose with high brake temps.


Gentlemen, the most inaccurate section of any Ferrari manual is the torque section. There are many specs in there that will get you in real trouble. It isn't worthless but it is like believing a politician or the news media. Do so at your peril.

 

Brian, I was told quite some time ago to keep a machinists book on hand for reference. Every grade of hardware has a specific torque range depending on it's diameter, length, thread pitch and the material that's being fastened.

Seems like most things, the best approach is to have some basic engineering principals stored in the memory bank and weave it in with experience...positive or negative.

90ft. lbs. has always been the wheel bolt spec. I've worked with, successfully.

 

If you follow Ferrari's torque specs you will get real good at installing helicoils, removing broken fasteners and retrieving parts that have fallen off the car.

 

Terry - seems the only one operating out of his rear end is you, Mr. Smartypants. What's that, I don't understan..."woof, woof, woof..."...Please speak English when you're talking to me.

Thanks Rifledriver.

 

Rick- Sorry if offering to provide factory data to owners was an insult. As usual Brian is the expert on practical care of Ferraris, but having data still makes for an educated owner. It allows you to ask intelligent questions.

Also, keep the personal insults to yourself. This is FerrariChat, not HondaChat.

Brian- 355s had a problem, any others that should use higher torque than the factory specs? Notice the 456M says 120 Nm, way higher than any other I have seen.

What do you use for torque values, an SAE table of torques, something similar, or just experience?

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

I love it; and so true!!!!

My advice, you just have to acquire a 'feel' for it..........

Sparky

 

I have noted that every time the wheels have come off my car at Ferrari of Seattle, there is a note that they are torqued to 90lb/ft and signed off. I recall that in one case it was signed off by two different people that checked and then confirmed it.

 

Usnig factory information is always better than your method.

Get a book and read it, then when you have 30 or so years of experience with it you can question it.

And quit insulting people that are trying to help *****.

 

Most "home mechanic" torque wrenches are about plus or minus 10% so just getting close is good enough. If a wheel nut came off its more likely that it was not even tightened in the first place IMO.


P

 

I find myself here because 16 of my 20 wheel inserts are cracked, so whatever torques the bolts were at, it was too much. I looked in the owners handbook and couldn't find any guide there. Mind you, the users manual seems very "Itialian " in its approach - Page G3 Quote; "After an emergency repair has been made in this way, however, the car must be driven slowly (maximum permissible speed 95mph)"

 

i have no idea what's the difference between a bolt and a screw. my understanding is that screw is smaller?

 

Speaking generally, a screw can (or does) create threads within the medium it's inserted into. A bolt does not.

 

I use 90 ftlbs across the board. Never an issue over 20 years. Never had a wheel come loose, street or track.

 

ok, i see. a screw is a self-attacking bolt into an attackable material.

 

And a machine screw?

 

While I agree with you (old post). Ford GT350 wheel lug torque is 150 LB/ft. Which is way over torque spec for the size of the lug.

 

It is also important to make sure that the bolts/nuts are tightened evenly. Not only on Ferrari but all cars. Uneven tightening can warp wheels and brake discs. Service manager at my local Chevy dealer required technicians to buy the customer new brake discs if they were caught tightening with an air wrench instead of a torque wrench.

 

I note in my service records over the years for my previous F355 spider and now 430 Scuderia, that is exactly the torque mentioned by Ferrari of Seattle. It is even mentioned they recheck wheel bolt torque after a test drive.

 

My Ferrari has lug bolts (in the US). My guess that "screws" was due to an incorrect translation to American English. Just think that a screw is removed or installed with a screwdriver. But as long as we all know the intent either word will suffice.

 

I can't see how discs can be warped by uneven tightening. You're tightening against the hat which has a large bearing surface. And aren't pro air tools adjustable? I have asked at brake and tire places and they have shown me what they're adjusted for. Perhaps a pro here can shed some light, but it seems like a non issue.

 

The better shops/ tire stores use torque stix. They are available in different torque values and limit the torque of the air wrench. I am new to Ferrari but have over 40 years experience in sports, classic, and interesting cars. Warpage is definitely an issue on most cars. Just like head bolts. No competent tech would install a head with an air wrench. I will always torque my wheels and most everything else and use a proper pattern. I also keep my "Snapon" torque wrenches calibrated.

 

Most impact guns do not have specific torque settings. The adjustment is for rasing and lowering the power of the gun (basicly it's just an air bypass valve).

Some airtools do have torque settings, but they are very expensive. Most techs wouldn't spend that kind of money, when a torque wrench will do the job for much less.

As far as warping rotors, it's an old wives tail. You can't do it by over tightening a wheel. You will damage the wheel well before warping a rotor.